**Update, I was having some whistling issues after installing. I taped the top part of the grill where it meets the hood and drove around. No more noise. Ill end up trying the 1/4" drip tube in the weather stripping that this guy did.
Otherwise, everything is still holding up nicely. The mesh is still attached soundly with no signs of becoming weak.
I put the drip tube in the strip between the hood and grill. Seems to have fixed the whistling issue.**
As the title says it's for the Custom Car Grills DIY mesh. I didn't come up with the mod, I'm just making a bit more of a detailed write up for anyone who decides to go this route.
This mod does require some work, but not near as much as making a satoshi grill. I probably spent about a week making my satoshi. This grill only took a matter of hours in terms of labor. Waiting for the epoxy to cure was the longest wait, which was about 48 hours.
Some things you may want.
First thing you want to do is remove the two 10mm bolts from the top of the grill.
Now remove the two plastic rivet clips on top by prying the center out with a screwdriver.
Now, where you removed the 10mm bolts, you'll see white plastic that the bolts thread into. Pull the black plastic up over the white plastic, so the grill doesn't get hung up on them when you pull the grill out. Once you've done that, take you're fingers and grab the grill where it edges under the lights. Left or right, it doesn't matter. Pull straight out quickly and forcefully. The grill should pop out. Be careful not to let the other side of the grill scrape your bumper when it comes out.
Custom Car Grills has a video on the removal of the guts and install of the new grill. Below I added some details that aren't in the video. You'll see the video to the right of the grey tacoma on their site.
There is 20 T20 torx screws to remove. Then there is 10 plastic clips/hooks that you need to unhook. Unhook each one just enough to not be snapped in, then start to pry the grill apart. I used needle nose pliers and gently pried the plastic back until the hooks unclipped.
In the video it's mentioned that the mesh is to be sandwiched between the colored/chrome piece, and the black backing. The only way to do this is to cut away at the area where the mesh will sit. You can see the extra plastic cut away in the video, but it's not mentioned to cut it out.
You can see where the mesh ends at the top, extra plastic has to be cut out to get the mesh to be sandwiched between the 2 grill pieces. You also have to cut out a little extra around the sides at the top. The mesh transitions from laying on top at the bottom, to being sandwiched at the top. If you don't do this, then the mesh will not fit between the colored/chrome piece, and the grill backing.
I used the Goop like he said in the video. I was a little skeptical of this method, but once it was all done and cured, everything was very sturdy. I would have preferred to epoxy bolts and use nuts and washers to secure the mesh. However, there just isn't enough material to work with to do this.
I used the end of a zip tie to get to areas that were tight. Be careful when putting the goop in certain spots, as I put too much in the corner and it oozed onto the painted surface. I didn't notice this until it had dried, but luckily it peeled right off without any damage the painted surface.
While I waited for the epoxy to cure, I decided to paint the radiator black with high temp engine paint so it wouldn't show through the mesh so easily. Eventually I'll move the horns to a better location.
Putting the grill back in is just a matter of lining up all the clips and pushing it in. It will all snap back into place. Put the two 10mm bolts back in and the two plastic rivet clips.
Now that every things is cured and put back together. It's not perfect in a few spots, but not bad at all.
I used 2 bottles of goop, but part of a third could have been used.
In all I spent about $65-$70.
Hope this helps anyone out looking to do this.