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PWR Door locks short

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by SWCCBEE, Mar 19, 2014.

  1. Mar 19, 2014 at 6:21 PM
    #1
    SWCCBEE

    SWCCBEE [OP] So Cal Edition

    Joined:
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    Greg
    Santa Rita, GU
    Vehicle:
    2010 PreRunner, SR5, TRD Sport
    WeatherTech floor liners, In process of Debadge, Leveling kit, Tires, Limo tint, Custom TRD SPORT Decal, "ImMrYo" Rear view lifting bar, Ultra gauge, relocated horn.
    I went out to my 2010 TRD sport @WD yesterday after work and when I went to turn the key there was nothing. Not even clicking. I tried to jump it to no avail, swithced out the battery (We have spares at work) and that didnt work, put a fluke on it and it had 11.74V. Once you turned on the key to ACC it went to <4V. We started pulling fuses to find the draw and the PWR door locks fuse was the culprit. Although it was not blown. Any one have this problem or Ideas before I have to take her to the stealership?

    (I will be checking the grommet/door at lunch)

    Thanks.
     
  2. Mar 19, 2014 at 8:44 PM
    #2
    Jimmyh

    Jimmyh Well-Known Member

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    I would look more in the direction of a sticking door lock switch. That would provide enough resistance to not blow the fuse yet it would drain the battery. A shorted wire to ground would have a low enough resistance to blow the fuse.
     
  3. Mar 19, 2014 at 9:31 PM
    #3
    SWCCBEE

    SWCCBEE [OP] So Cal Edition

    Joined:
    May 23, 2013
    Member:
    #104789
    Messages:
    438
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Greg
    Santa Rita, GU
    Vehicle:
    2010 PreRunner, SR5, TRD Sport
    WeatherTech floor liners, In process of Debadge, Leveling kit, Tires, Limo tint, Custom TRD SPORT Decal, "ImMrYo" Rear view lifting bar, Ultra gauge, relocated horn.
    Whats the best way to sniff that out?
     
  4. Mar 19, 2014 at 11:38 PM
    #4
    Jimmyh

    Jimmyh Well-Known Member

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    2012 Prerunner SR5
    If you have a Multimeter and know how to use it, you would pop out the switch panels ( I would start at the drivers door as it is probably used more than the others). Then unplug it from the wiring harness then check across the contacts ( three pins ) of the switch ( two way, spring loaded to center ). All three should be open maximum resistance ( OL on a digital meter ) with nothing pressed. If you get any readings other than OL or Open between the three pins then you have the defective switch.
     

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