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Rubber break line

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by CorpsmanUp, Apr 26, 2014.

  1. Apr 26, 2014 at 10:29 AM
    #1
    CorpsmanUp

    CorpsmanUp [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Gibby
    Suffolk, VA
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    2013 Taco DCLWB 6in lift 35s 4.56s, air lockers AP F&R bmpers warn 10k winch Rigid fogs & floods custom pro top shell
    6in procomp stage 2 lift with PC Coilovers, 35x12.50 Nitto MTs, Moto metal 18x10 with -44 offset HID and LED's everywhere, ladder bars, rear disk brake conversion, hood struts, K&N cold air intake, Flowmaster 40 series, pro comp skid plates, train horn, pa system, all silver trim inside painted black all pro apex front bumper with full hoops warn 10k winch, all pro high clearance rear bumper with custom door hinge tag holder, pro top custom windowless camper shell. ARB onboard air compressor, rear ARB air locker, 4.56 gears front and rear, waterport pressurized water system, pop and lock tailgate.
    Probably already posted somewhere else but I've been looking for an hour. Anybody know where I can buy just a single or have an extra rubber break line for the driver side rear on a 13 taco? I've got a cut in mine right before the metal fitting that connects to my caliber(drum to disk conversion) and i'm leaking fluid and I've got a long drive from cali to Kansas in two weeks.

    20140425_170935.jpg
    20140425_170943.jpg
     
  2. Apr 26, 2014 at 10:41 AM
    #2
    Evenflow

    Evenflow Well-Known Member

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    That is not an over the counter item you are going to find at Pep Boys but it is a simple fix / swap. Call Crown Performance in Vista on Monday and ask for John in the shop. He can make you custom upgraded stainless lines while you wait and the prices are great.
     
  3. Apr 26, 2014 at 10:44 AM
    #3
    KenLyns

    KenLyns 8.75" Third Member

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    ^This. Surprised CorpsmanUp is still running a rubber line after a disc brake conversion (which is usually intended to be a performance upgrade).

    For a drop-in replacement, call the mfr of the disc conversion kit.
     
  4. Apr 26, 2014 at 11:22 AM
    #4
    jsi

    jsi Well-Known Member

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    Dude, it looks the the break in the your brake line was caused by rubbing on the shock boot. Gotta fix that or it will just happen again. And like the others surprised you're not already running a braided stainless line.
     
  5. Apr 26, 2014 at 11:31 AM
    #5
    CorpsmanUp

    CorpsmanUp [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Gibby
    Suffolk, VA
    Vehicle:
    2013 Taco DCLWB 6in lift 35s 4.56s, air lockers AP F&R bmpers warn 10k winch Rigid fogs & floods custom pro top shell
    6in procomp stage 2 lift with PC Coilovers, 35x12.50 Nitto MTs, Moto metal 18x10 with -44 offset HID and LED's everywhere, ladder bars, rear disk brake conversion, hood struts, K&N cold air intake, Flowmaster 40 series, pro comp skid plates, train horn, pa system, all silver trim inside painted black all pro apex front bumper with full hoops warn 10k winch, all pro high clearance rear bumper with custom door hinge tag holder, pro top custom windowless camper shell. ARB onboard air compressor, rear ARB air locker, 4.56 gears front and rear, waterport pressurized water system, pop and lock tailgate.
    Thanks i'll give them a call Monday.

    @KenLyns, I didn't do the break conversion just the lift the guy I bought the truck from a few months ago had already did the conversion and had used just the stock lines from what I can tell otherwise I definitely would've gone w/ the braided lines for sure!

    @ JSI I don't believe rubbing against the shock boot would've caused it it's not a break down tight of break in the line it's more from the angle of the what I believe is a stock line on the caliber it's needs like a 90 degree connector on the fitting cause I believe the factory is 45degrees on the drivers side rear but I maybe wrong.
     
  6. Apr 26, 2014 at 12:14 PM
    #6
    Evenflow

    Evenflow Well-Known Member

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    BTW - I would suggest removing those shock boots, I had the same lift, same shocks and same boots and the boots actually trap water and dirt and cause a ton of corrosion on the sock body. In our climate here in SoCal you don't need them.

    The way they ran those lines is a little weird, ask John to take a look at it and he will hook you up with a better solution.
     
  7. Apr 26, 2014 at 12:23 PM
    #7
    CorpsmanUp

    CorpsmanUp [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Gibby
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    Vehicle:
    2013 Taco DCLWB 6in lift 35s 4.56s, air lockers AP F&R bmpers warn 10k winch Rigid fogs & floods custom pro top shell
    6in procomp stage 2 lift with PC Coilovers, 35x12.50 Nitto MTs, Moto metal 18x10 with -44 offset HID and LED's everywhere, ladder bars, rear disk brake conversion, hood struts, K&N cold air intake, Flowmaster 40 series, pro comp skid plates, train horn, pa system, all silver trim inside painted black all pro apex front bumper with full hoops warn 10k winch, all pro high clearance rear bumper with custom door hinge tag holder, pro top custom windowless camper shell. ARB onboard air compressor, rear ARB air locker, 4.56 gears front and rear, waterport pressurized water system, pop and lock tailgate.
    Ya I agree the line is ran wrong but i'm from TN and doing a PCS(changing duty stations) in 7 months to VA and I do a bit more mudding then anything and so far it's kept them relatively clean every other time i'd go mudding i'd loosen up the hose clamps and and make sure there wasn't a bunch of gunk trapped up in there and so far so good. But good advice thanks. And ya i'll see what they say on Monday and i'll probably just go with whatever he says cause I hate brake work with a passion!
     
  8. Apr 26, 2014 at 12:29 PM
    #8
    Spoonman

    Spoonman Granite Guru

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    Napa

    Brake*
    Caliper*
     
  9. Apr 26, 2014 at 12:55 PM
    #9
    CorpsmanUp

    CorpsmanUp [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Gibby
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    Vehicle:
    2013 Taco DCLWB 6in lift 35s 4.56s, air lockers AP F&R bmpers warn 10k winch Rigid fogs & floods custom pro top shell
    6in procomp stage 2 lift with PC Coilovers, 35x12.50 Nitto MTs, Moto metal 18x10 with -44 offset HID and LED's everywhere, ladder bars, rear disk brake conversion, hood struts, K&N cold air intake, Flowmaster 40 series, pro comp skid plates, train horn, pa system, all silver trim inside painted black all pro apex front bumper with full hoops warn 10k winch, all pro high clearance rear bumper with custom door hinge tag holder, pro top custom windowless camper shell. ARB onboard air compressor, rear ARB air locker, 4.56 gears front and rear, waterport pressurized water system, pop and lock tailgate.
    Thanks, I'll give them a look but advanced, oreilys and AZ didn't carry one.
     
  10. Apr 26, 2014 at 1:59 PM
    #10
    Spoonman

    Spoonman Granite Guru

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    Personally I would use a Toyota line. But a napa one to get out of a jam.
     
  11. Apr 26, 2014 at 3:34 PM
    #11
    Evenflow

    Evenflow Well-Known Member

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    If you read his OP and look at the pictures you will see that it is not an OE brake set up it has been converted to a disc brake rear end and his hard lines are not OE either so an OE brake hose is useless. He needs a custom length hose with a banjo fitting on one end. In addition an upgraded stainless/ Kevlar hose will yield better brake feel which is why I suggest Crown Performance who also happens to be local here in San Diego.
     
  12. Apr 26, 2014 at 11:13 PM
    #12
    Jimmyh

    Jimmyh Well-Known Member

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    Yeah that shit drives me crazy too.

    Break is not Brake
    Caliber is not Caliper.

    Learn to fucking spell! :)
     
    Last edited: Apr 27, 2014

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