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2006 Damaged..Body guru's inside!

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by markymarky, May 3, 2014.

  1. May 3, 2014 at 12:14 PM
    #1
    markymarky

    markymarky [OP] New Member

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    Hey ya'll. I've been lurking for quite some time around here(2-3 years) just never made a post until now. Here's the deal. My truck got into a little tangle with a wood pile not so long ago(pic provided as attachment).
    Now, here is my gameplan to fix this myself.
    -Remove right side bed panel for ease of access
    -Remove rear seat/insulation etc. so I can access cab corner
    -Sand entire "bad" area of both sections
    -Use stud gun/hammer and dolly to pull out most of the dents/get it into line(s) again
    -Bondo/shape/prime/pant/sand etc.
    Now, the cab I don't think I'll have a major issue with BUT! My question is: The bed rail at the top there that is drooped down like a cornice. What is the best way to approach this besides just beating it into shape/forming it. I understand these body lines will NEVER be perfect..but it's a 2006 ski/hunt/camp vehicle so I don't need it perfect just to not look like crap as it does now. Furthermore, I'm not going to spend big bucks of another rear panel when I think* I can salvage this to turn out A-ok. Just will take some time and patience. Any advice/suggestions would be greatly appreciated!! Thank you for your time.

    Tacodamaged.jpg
     
  2. May 3, 2014 at 1:55 PM
    #2
    fixnfly

    fixnfly Well-Known Member

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    If you have little or no bodywork experience you have a serious uphill battle. Good luck
     
  3. May 3, 2014 at 2:03 PM
    #3
    TacoDeLaPlaya

    TacoDeLaPlaya Total Automotive Performance Sleeper Cell

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    Yeah its not really "hard" to do body work but doing it quickly comes with practice. I would guess it would take me over 150 hours to do this job. My only body experience is with street cars usually modifying the body to fit the wheel and tire package by rolling the fenders and some bondo work on a pinewood derby car and my satoshi. My satoshi probably took 15 hours of labor across a whole work week.

    I would do your best on the cab and get fiberglass bedsides. A body shop would probably use part of a donor cab and just weld it in.

    Upon looking at the pics just get fiberglass bedsides and sand and repaint the cab. Those fold like things on the cab will be a bitch.
     
  4. May 3, 2014 at 2:09 PM
    #4
    AEmedic

    AEmedic Well-Known Member

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    I say pay the insurance deductible, and see it look just like new...
     
  5. May 3, 2014 at 2:32 PM
    #5
    markymarky

    markymarky [OP] New Member

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    Yes, yes it will. I know edge line on the cab will never be the same but I'm pretty confident those can be pulled/beat out and formed to suffice. It's just going to take....a weekend or two. :(
     
    Last edited: May 3, 2014
  6. May 3, 2014 at 2:32 PM
    #6
    File IFR

    File IFR "... Intercepting The Localizer"

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    ^^ This

    OP, what is your deductable charge?
     
  7. May 3, 2014 at 2:39 PM
    #7
    markymarky

    markymarky [OP] New Member

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    Hey, thanks for the response. It's not an option for me due to I only run liability(minimum i.e. only if someone crashes into me) on it.
     
  8. May 3, 2014 at 2:52 PM
    #8
    File IFR

    File IFR "... Intercepting The Localizer"

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    ahh, I see.

    The bed panel will be a real bitch to straighten. You could use a new panel.
     
  9. May 3, 2014 at 4:16 PM
    #9
    KB Voodoo

    KB Voodoo Well-Known Member

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    Damn that crease in the bed is going to be a problem.

    This looks like something a professional body man would cringe at.
     
  10. May 3, 2014 at 5:54 PM
    #10
    cheeseit

    cheeseit Well-Known Member

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    That looks pretty nasty to fix. Especially that bedside corner.

    Maybe go to a shop and get an estimate just to see what they would do :p

    It's hard to actually look at shit through pictures and know what needs to be done.
     

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