So I'm gonna change my clutch and I need some tips

A week ago I posted that I thought maybe my clutch was shot. Having decided to change it I am now unemployed meaning more spare time and less money.

I was hoping for advice. I have a nice garage with a full height lift, I figure I will rent a transmission jack. I am looking for advice

1) should I replace the flywheel as well as the clutch (I'm thinking yes)

2) can anybody recommend an aftermarket clutch kit supplier since the stock clutch only lasted 100,000 miles (shortest lived clutch ever)

3) any 'how to' posts or videos people would recommend

Thanks

 

URD makes a couple clutches. http://urdusa.com/Clutch-and-Flywheels-Clutches-by-URD/c178_197/index.html?osCsid=455de99a9988de0e1a85c4027ab2d85e

 

Thanks. I'm not sure I want to go full up racing, given the unemployment and all.

 

1. I'd have the flywheel resurfaced. Replace it only if it's damaged beyond resurfacing.
2. For a clutch, I'd get a decent name brand aftermarket clutch kit - new not resurfaced. Depending on the year of your truck you can get them through Rockauto and there's a discount code out here somewhere for 5 or 10% off. I personally would stay away from racing clutches if your truck is a daily driver.
3. I'd also adjust the clutch pedal to grab a little earlier if it's like most Tacoma clutch pedals that grab almost at the top is the stroke. There's an adjustment rod under the dash. Shorten the rod length by turning the adjustment nuts to get the pedal to grab earlier, closer to the floor.

 

I replaced my clutch a couple weeks ago at under 40K because the throw out bearing failed. I bought a URD stage 3 clutch kit and their TOB sleeve kit, I also bought ARP flywheel and pressure plate bolts from them for good measure. I'm happy with it, no noticeable pedal feel from the stock clutch. I 2nd having your stock flywheel resurfaced, my local shop did mine for $45 in about a half hour, good as new. As for some advise, I'm no expert by any means. I would recommend renting a trans jack, use medium strength locktight on the flywheel bolts and re torque them to factory specs, change the trans oil while it's out because it's way easy to do, buy new exhaust collector gaskets for good measure, they are only $8 for the two fronts and $28 for the merge collector. I also bought a new shifter ball bushing, mine was already torn even under 40K miles? It really helps to get everything disconnected and lower the trans as much as possible in the rear, use a 3' or longer extension to get at the bellhousing bolts. I also used the extension by hand to thread the bolts back in place, it's a life saver as the top few bolts are difficult to get to. Probably the best advise I can give is to take your time and keep track of which bolts go where. I also had to buy a tap to clean the threads on two of my exhaust collectors, but you may not experience any issues there. Use a couple ratchet straps and secure the trans firmly to the jack, between the trans and Xfer case, they are heavy!

Here are a few pics from my adventure:

 

This is a decent vid showing some good tips.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kJBXW65Q2FU

 

Nice lift. Is it yours?

 

I found it was way easier to split the transfer case off the transmission than mess with the exhaust and the seized hardware / cost of gaskets associated with that.

 

Thanks for the tips. It sounds like resurfacing is the way to go if you can!

 

Boatracer Thanks for the tips and all the info.
You lift looks very similar to mine. Did you add additional stands at the front and back? I intend to but I can't see them in the pix. I was told you need them for a 2 post if you are doing any heavy work.

How long did it take? Was it your first truck clutch? I did a few many years ago but they we in cars and I figure a truck will be harder.

Any suggestions as to the height of the lift. It seems to me standing height would be best.

Now I know why I bought a complete set of 1/2" extensions (about 6' worth ) ...

 

buy a urd throwout bearing sleeve kit, will eliminate the chirping, that will eventually develop on the stock aluminum sleeve. well worth it

 

Thanks, yes it's my lift. I bought it from a local shop that went out of business a few years ago.

 

Thanks for posting pictures . I see they did away with the pilot bearing or at least it looks like there is no pilot bearing .
I find it strange that they removed the pilot bearing as the purpose of the pilot bearing was to support the clutch disc when it is pulled away from the flywheel . With this said , I am sure more centrifical loads are placed on the clutch release bearing ( AKA ...throw out bearing ) and the front mainshaft bearing .
If you purchase a clutch from me and you dont have your flywheel machined back to straight at a machine shop of your choice , I will not warrantee your clutch when you bring it in and complain . Its very to easy to tell if the flywheel was machined or not .
URD is the way to go with the bearing and sleeve kit .

 

Every vehicle moves around slightly on a two post lift, I don't mean on the stands, but a little sway forward and back when wrenching is normal. I use a screw jack for extra support on either the rear end housing or the trailer hitch when needed, however, if you do this be advised to remember it's there! Put a tag on the lift controls or something, it's easy to get caught up in what your doing and forget when it comes time to lower the lift. You can find simple screw jacks at any Harbor Freight.

It's been several years since I've done a clutch involving a Xfer case, but it's mostly the same process as others. I spent an afternoon removing and cleaning everything one day, half of the next day running the flywheel to and from the machine shop and going to the dealer for the small items I mentioned earlier, and the last half of the day installing everything. So, taking my time, I probably spent six to seven hours wrenching. The biggest difference I noticed was in the pressure plate. While there is an alignment tool in the clutch kit, there is no pilot bearing for the snout of it "ride" in. This leaves a little extra play in getting the clutch disc centered. I've read were a guy used a large socket to align them, but I just used the supplied tool as in the picture above. You'll understand when you get to it what I mean. I had no problems getting the trans in and out with my trans jack by myself, it just takes a little patience. I wouldn't say it's harder to do, there is just more stuff to un bolt on these trucks, I didn't run into anything else abnormal.

As far as the lift height, what ever is comfortable to you is fine. I adjust mine many times throughout a repair if its needed. Follow the manufacture's guidelines on the proper use though. I lift a vehicle just above the height I want, then I let it down slightly until it rests on the safety catches. This prevents it from bleeding down any and takes the pressure off the system. When I need to lower it, I have to raise it slightly to remove the weight from the catches or stops, pull the release handle that retracks the catches/stops, and lower it down. Every lift is not the same though, so read the manual on your specific lift.

I will admit to dragging my feet doing this job. I do a lot of wrenching at my place on many projects, but this one I was not looking forward to. In the end, it was fairly easy with the proper tools, just don't let it overwhelm you. Remove each part as needed and set it off to the side, then remove the next, ect. I completed this entire job with common hand tools. As in that video, remove the bolts that hold the clutch slave cylinder lines and tie strap that whole thing out of your way. Don't remove the lines from the unit, because our trucks use the brake master reservoir in conjunction with the clutch system, bleeding them can be a huge headache!

 

I don't like this setup at all. I believe it's main reason so many of us experience the TOB chirp and if not addressed soon enough, it will damage the quill to the point of having to replace the bellhousing. The URD rep told me that Subaru uses the same design and experiences the same problems. I don't understand why Toyota would re design something that has worked for decades, but then again, these 6 speed manuals are the worst shifting transmissions I've ever driven. Mine flat out sucks! I think the syncros for third and fourth are gone, it shifts like a 50's dump truck!

 

Ofcourse it shifts into 3rd and 4th like crap , There is no pilot bearing supporting the load of the clutch disc . When your clutch disc is rotating at 3000 rpm and you mash your pedal down to the floor , the release bearing and mainshaft bearing on the input shaft are taking all the load of the clutch disc now where most transmissions utilize a pilot bearing to support that load . Any out of round issues are now relying on the input shaft to output shaft bearing and the mainshaft bearing . Not sure what engineer designed the transmission , but they obviously didnt think about the effects of removing that pilot bearing and the emphasis it was going to play on the 3rd and 4th synchro . And I agree that this is probably the reason all you guys with this manual in your truck have problems with the clutch release bearing ( AKA throw out bearing ) Its a clutch release bearing , it does not throw anything out !!!
Here is a post with a bad 3-4 synchro http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/x-runners/308900-tranny-grinds-going-into-3rd-gear.html#post8689170

 

This is the jack I use for a little extra stability when needed on the lift.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sxt-6809/overview/

 

I agree! I'm still hearing a noise when I let off the throttle at speeds above 50mph and I'm convinced it's the shaft input bearing.

 

Thanks against for all the info. I have 2 of the Harbor freight jacks so I should be OK.

I'm not following all the back and forth about the pilot bearings. I've never had any problems with my 6 speed. Damn truck goes like stink, even though the clutch lasted half or third as long as it should. I read somewhere some trucks went out with poor quality "made in Mexico" clutches.

 

If the transmission makes noise in direct drive ....4Th gear , it would bet money that the input shaft main bearing is the issue .