Help with rear end..

2007 Prerunner non locker/lsd 4.0

already posted in GA thread but thought i could reach more people here and there at the same time...

Hey guys i need some help and fast. My rear end has been making some noise but i thought it was my tires... well the sound is getting worse.. took it up to dads today and i put it up on stands, put it in drive and let it roll.. it has a roar to it.. so dad and i changed out the gear dope and still have the sound. Turned the drive shaft while in neutral and it feels...ehh cant really describe it.. it almost feels like its binding but dosent feel that way when going down the road....

Ok so now onto the help.. Does anyone know anywhere in Northeast GA,Western NC, or northwest SC that is good and can work on rears, warrant their work.. (i live at the corner of all three states) i really dont want to drop 1200 into a junkyard one (which im having trouble finding locally) if all it is an axle bearing or something cheapish.. Any help is much appreciated..

 

bump??

 

Differential
Differential System: Precaution, Parts Location
Differential System: System Diagram, Problem Symptoms Table
Differential System: On-Vehicle Inspection, Inspection
Differential Oil: Adjustment
Rear Differential Carrier Oil Seal: Removal
Rear Differential Carrier Oil Seal: Installation
Axle
Axle System: Problem Symptoms Table, On-Vehicle Inspection
Front Axle Hub Bolt: Removal, Installation
Front Axle Hub (For 2WD): Components
Front Axle Hub (For 2WD): Removal, Disassembly, Reassembly
Front Axle Hub (For 2WD): Installation

 

Its not leaking anything out of the rear, the gear dope looked good after the drain but the plug had metal shavings on it.. and front hubs are all good no movement in either..

 

Wheel bearings growl when they go bad. What the heck is "gear dope"?

 

Checked the ujoints? That wouldn't explain metal shavings, could be the noise though.

 

ya ujoints seem good..

pushed and pulled, no play in the wheel bearings...

Gear dope.. sorry rear end gear oil.. i grew up using that term...

 

called a few places and emailed some local places...waiting on responses due to holiday.. So heres another question.. IF and i am saying IF, they have to rebuild the rear, Should i go with just stock if it has to be rebuilt or could/would it be cheaper to get a locker? all the used ones rear ends from junkyards i can find are around $1200-1400!!!! Im not looking to spend more than that total (really dont want to spend anything haha) what are some reasonable prices to look at rears, change bearings if thats all it is.. or prices of rebuilds...


Used stock entire assembly




I found this...
Elocker

Non Elocker




but bearings if that is all it is i found on Rockauto.com run from 15-116 depeding on which one it is...

 

just pull your 3rd member and take a look!

im guessing ring/ pinion are on their way out.



course, my neighbor called me one day about his truck making a ton of noise and not really wanting to go, I mentioned rear-end. he brought home to remove/ inspect 3rd member, got both axles out before he noticed his carrier bearing no longer bolted to frame.

keep your eyes open, but metal in diff (anything bigger than powder-sized particles) points to bad ring/pinion to me

 

http://eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-788575-tacoma-8-4-non-eld-t100-tundra-3rd.html

don't buy an entire housing. buying an assembled 3rd member will save you from a lot of the technical stuff associated with gear setup, as long as it is your ring/ pinion that are bad

 

I have had howling issues in the past. Twice. Knock on wood....
As it turns out my rear pinion bearings were slightly pitted due to contamination so the tech said. I also thought it was my tires but as the weeks and months went by it would get louder and louder. All was covered under warranty, but still a pain in the ass.

I bought my truck used with 65k on it in 2011 a month after I got it the bearings we're replace and all was good........ Till November 2013 it started howling and grinding again, pinion bearings and all that crush sleeve crap was replaced. I'm now at 82k.
Hope maybe you can take a little info from this, I'll be f-ing pissed off if this shit happends again! I'm easy on it, fire road wheeling, no water crossings dosent leak. What gives.
Sorry about the rant..

Thanks,

Brett

 

Ya after alot more research today this looks like what im gonna do. I have a friend that is gonna pull the rear for me and inspect but he said he thinks its the ring and pinion.. so we will see in the next day or so.. and for that price with the warranty they offer i cant really beat that price.. plus they seem to be very attentive.. i sent an email asking a question and had an answer very quickly..

 

sounds great! just remember the little story about my neighbor, don't act on drastic stuff until all the little cheap stuff has been double checked!

east-coast has a very good reputation on tacomaworld and im sure no matter what your needs are, they will be able to help

 

I'm with the others. Check bearings and all the easy stuff first, but really sounds like ring and pinion. That's just too much steel on the magnetic plug. BTW, love your area. Can't count the number of times I've kayaked Chatooga IV. Had a daughter who was a raft guide with SE Expeditions...

 

Make sure to check that the wheel bearings turn smoothly while you have the rear end apart, there will be play in the bearings with the shafts out. This is because the retainer plate preloads the bearing, however it shouldn't be more than 1/16"

If you chose to go through ECGS, since you have the 3rd out already, you have the option of shipping it to us to save yourself the core charge. The easiest way to do that is with a 5 gallon bucket, I suggest using two, one inside the other. We can also ship you a label using our discounted shipping rates.

Feel free to give us a call if you have anymore questions

-Casey @ ECGS

 

Ordered today, hopefully be here by monday and i can install wednesday...