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05 Won't Start?

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by Greatwhitewing, Jun 23, 2014.

  1. Jun 23, 2014 at 2:59 AM
    #1
    Greatwhitewing

    Greatwhitewing [OP] Active Member

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    Not mine, caretaker while owner is away. TRD with 4 wheel drive.

    Battery in good shape on trickle charger, sta-bil in fuel.

    Not even a click, I am thinking solenoid but want to rule out dumb stuff first. Are there any combination of dash switches that would prohibit starting?

    About 3-4 weeks ago started right up and ran well. Right rear wheel was stuck, assuming brakes were stuck. Eventually freed up with rocking it back and forth for a few minutes. The wheel is probably unrelated, just giving as much background as I can.

    Thanks in advance
     
  2. Jun 23, 2014 at 5:05 AM
    #2
    OCNutty

    OCNutty Well-Known Member

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    Won't know if battery is in good shape w/o a load test. You can get some idea with how bright the lights are, but far from definitive. How old is bat? Sometimes keeping on a trickle charger overcharges them and evaps the water and kills it (If they put sta-bil in fuel it appears they're going to be gone/not use it for at least a couple months.)
     
  3. Jun 23, 2014 at 5:20 AM
    #3
    Greatwhitewing

    Greatwhitewing [OP] Active Member

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    Trickle charger goes into float charge mode like a battery tender. Although I can't rule out a battery completely I did try to jump start with another vehicle and "not even a click" even after a few minutes of being connected to insure a charge so the battery being bad is pretty remote. I am getting 13+ volts on the battery disconnected from the trickle charger.

    I don't know how old the battery is.

    Just to rule it out I might take to a place to load test but I really doubt it's the problem.
     
  4. Jun 23, 2014 at 5:22 AM
    #4
    Jimmyh

    Jimmyh Well-Known Member

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    Do you have a multimeter? If yes, check the voltage at the terminals. Read the terminal clamps and not the posts. Then read the battery post. Remove and clean the terminals and posts. Then report back what happened after.

    Edit:

    I see you have 13 volts at the battery. And it will not even jump start?

    Stupid question, but: Are you sure you had the clutch pressed all the way in. I'm asking because of the clutch safety switch, just pressing it a little or putting it in neutral will not work.
     
    Last edited: Jun 23, 2014
  5. Jun 23, 2014 at 6:26 AM
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    Greatwhitewing

    Greatwhitewing [OP] Active Member

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    Yea, I have the clutch in all the way and tried with the button pushed that lets you start without clutch in, forget the name on the switch.

    I don't mind so-called stupid questions.
    It's not my truck so I don't a lot about it. I can easily see some combination of dashboard switches that some safety feature won't let me start it.

    I checked the voltage with a good meter and getting over 13V (don't remember exactly how much). I was getting over 14V when I tried jump starting and not even a click.
     
  6. Jun 23, 2014 at 6:33 AM
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    Large Red

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    Dumb question here but was the battery connected? Any lights or beeping when the key is in the 'acc' or 'on' position
     
  7. Jun 23, 2014 at 6:51 AM
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    Greatwhitewing

    Greatwhitewing [OP] Active Member

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    YES, I get all the winking and blinking, dash lights up as normal.

    Everything but starter turning or even a click when I turn key to start position.

    It all leads up to a solenoid IMHO unless I have some combo of switches. I can't imagine what it might be though.

    Starter is spensive, and not sure how to hard a job it is to get to.
     
  8. Jun 23, 2014 at 6:56 AM
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    I'd say either solenoid or starter. Did you try to push start it? It's a 6 speed right?
     
  9. Jun 23, 2014 at 7:14 AM
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    Greatwhitewing

    Greatwhitewing [OP] Active Member

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    Did NOT try to push start it yet. Not sure I want to expend that many calories..lol

    Is there a simple electrical test for the solenoid? Hopefully without getting under the truck...
     
  10. Jun 23, 2014 at 7:49 AM
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    Large Red

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    All the solenoid does is close a pair of contacts when it gets 12 vdc, they are relatively cheap. Not sure how to test them I always just bought a new one on older vehicles.
     
  11. Jun 23, 2014 at 8:38 AM
    #11
    Greatwhitewing

    Greatwhitewing [OP] Active Member

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    I think if I am going to take the starter out to get the solenoid I would replace the starter too.

    I don't even have a service manula. Is there a fuse for the solenoid?
     
  12. Jun 23, 2014 at 8:57 AM
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    Greatwhitewing

    Greatwhitewing [OP] Active Member

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    That may tell me if it's the problem.

    I was really hoping this would be something stupid like a dumb mistake with a switch and not a "getting dirty" job..lol
     
  13. Jun 23, 2014 at 9:39 AM
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    yota243

    yota243 Well-Known Member

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    Fuses? Always start with the easiest cheapest things first then work ur way up. Relays and fuses have cause alot of problems that ive over thought before checking.
     
  14. Jun 23, 2014 at 9:50 AM
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    yota243

    yota243 Well-Known Member

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    Sorry wrong number
     
  15. Jun 23, 2014 at 9:52 AM
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    yota243

    yota243 Well-Known Member

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    You must have once had something in order to lose it.





    These are not the droids you're looking for.
     
  16. Jun 23, 2014 at 2:58 PM
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    Greatwhitewing

    Greatwhitewing [OP] Active Member

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    Okay folks, no fuses for solenoid. Didn't think there would be.

    Rapped the starter as hard as I could, not very impressive, and didn't make a difference.

    Assuming I need a Solenoid as a minimum.
     
  17. Jun 23, 2014 at 3:43 PM
    #17
    SGTCap

    SGTCap Well-Known Member

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    See if you get 12v at the starter when you hit the key. If you do, its the starter solenoid. Before I did that I would take the battery cables loose from the battery, clean and reinstall. I've had this same issue with my truck multiple times and that's always solved it. I don't care what your meter says. Start by cleaning the terminals. Its free and may very likely solve the problem.
     
  18. Jun 23, 2014 at 10:10 PM
    #18
    themanbornwithin

    themanbornwithin Active Member

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    Does the engine immobilizer light (truck symbol with a key in center of dash next to the clock) go out when you insert the key? If it doesn't it means it doesn't recognize the key. I don't remember if it will crank but not run or if it won't crank when the immobilizer detects a wrong key.
     
  19. Jul 16, 2014 at 2:35 AM
    #19
    Greatwhitewing

    Greatwhitewing [OP] Active Member

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    No alarm. Sorry for the delay
     
  20. Jul 16, 2014 at 6:32 AM
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    Canufixit

    Canufixit Well-Known Member

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    Try putting the truck in gear and pushing /rocking it (with the key off!!) to get the engine to turn over slightly. If the starter is engaged it might release it and also move the starter armature off a possible bad spot off the brushes.

    I'd also check for 12v at the solenoid when you turn the key. No voltage = not starter issue. If Voltage exists and the started in not bound and there is no solenoid "click" when you turn the key - it's either a bad connection AT the starter/ solenoid (clean the wires mounts) or the solenoid itself.

    If you haven't really really clean the engine ground strap and battery terminals/ misc connections, I'd do it as well.

    I'd do all this before I start changing parts.. Should not take too long. IMO

    edit for more: I thought of a couple more things... Clean and wipe both your main battery cables. Run your had down them and check for any bumps. bulges and flex the cable slightly as you do. I've had cables on cars and industrial truck that get water/acid/corrosion into the cable and the cable rots from the inside. You can usuall feel it , but check the voltages at the solenoid AND the starter when you try to crank it. Also, I've seen fusible links in this circuit,,, Including the cables/wires themselves acting as a fuse and big hard fuses. Check it out good.
     
    Last edited: Jul 16, 2014

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