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U-Joint Replacement

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by tacoman00, Jul 9, 2014.

  1. Jul 9, 2014 at 1:45 PM
    #1
    tacoman00

    tacoman00 [OP] Your Average Joe

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    Anyone know if there is a write up on this? about to replace one in the rear and looking to read up on it real quick before I dig in. :notsure:

    Thanks!
     
  2. Jul 9, 2014 at 2:08 PM
    #2
    NewRider

    NewRider Well-Known Member

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    Haven't seen one but there's a couple YouTube videos that give a quick walk through. Google: 05 tacoma ujoint replacement
     
  3. Jul 9, 2014 at 2:11 PM
    #3
    avw4x4

    avw4x4 Well-Hung Member

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    ...loading....
    If you want to wait I'll make a write up tomorrow night.. I'm also replacing them. Just picked them up yesterday, getting home too late tonight to do anything but will be doing then tomorrow evening.
     
  4. Jul 16, 2014 at 8:21 PM
    #4
    PA452

    PA452 Well-Known Member

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    Anyone have recommendations for a replacement u-joint? I need to replace the one in the rear closest to the differential also.

    I was looking at the options on Rock Auto. I see Spicer Life u-joints which I think I've read are supposed to be some of the best. But it says they came in sealed and greasable versions, and it's not giving me the option to choose and doesn't tell me what I'd be getting.
     
  5. Jul 16, 2014 at 9:16 PM
    #5
    NewRider

    NewRider Well-Known Member

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    Moog is a pretty good option if you're not gonna be doin anything crazy and need some kinda competition thing... just did mine the other week with a $15 replacement Moog ujoint, greasable (with the zerk fitting NOT on the end of that cap where it's likely to be hit), inexpensive, well made and easy to install.
     
  6. Jul 16, 2014 at 10:03 PM
    #6
    Mandy3206

    Mandy3206 Well-Known Member

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    I replaced the one at the rear diff some time ago, very easy to do, mine was frozen to the yoke so I had to get a 6" piece of heavy pipe that was about 1/4" smaller than the diameter of the sleeve and beat the crap out of it after soaking the whole thing in WD40 for about 15-20 mins, the rest is just plain simple stuff.

    Just make sure you mark the flanges before you tear it down so you maintain the correct drive shaft phasing when you put it back together.

    Get the OEM stuff, don't cheap out on this part, a broken u joint at speed is no funny stuff, and make sure you grease that new one until the grease comes out, the grease in the new part is just so it doesn't rust before you get it from the parts store.
     
  7. Jul 17, 2014 at 12:21 AM
    #7
    MJonaGS32

    MJonaGS32 MJ on a GS

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  8. Jul 17, 2014 at 2:20 AM
    #8
    Mandy3206

    Mandy3206 Well-Known Member

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    Nice video, I did mine without removing the drive shaft from the truck, way more simpler and faster..............
     
  9. Jul 17, 2014 at 4:06 AM
    #9
    ARB1977

    ARB1977 It’s a beaut Clark

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    How often should you replace u joints? I grease mine every oil change.
     
  10. Jul 17, 2014 at 5:02 AM
    #10
    Mandy3206

    Mandy3206 Well-Known Member

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    Mine started clunking when I neglected maintenance, as long as you maintain them greased they should last a very long time..............

    In over 30 yrs driving, only have replaced 2 of them, 1 for an old bronco and 1 for this tacoma......
     
  11. Jul 17, 2014 at 7:43 AM
    #11
    NewRider

    NewRider Well-Known Member

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    ARB: ujoints are a replace-as-needed item, they don't have a standard fail rate and could last the life of the vehicle (could). Just keep them breezed and happy and if you start to feel driveline vibrations and determine it to be a failing ujoint, replace it...

    Mandy: I'm not sure how you managed to replace it while leaving the driveshaft IN the truck AND thought it was easier but if you say so....
     
  12. Jul 17, 2014 at 8:50 AM
    #12
    Mandy3206

    Mandy3206 Well-Known Member

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    Yep, whole job took me about 35-40 min working plus the 15-20 minutes soaking in wd40 the frozen u-joint to the yoke, so is safe to say around 1 hr.

    Wasn't the most comfortable position to work, but was done rather quick, I've seen similar repairs in the trail, mine was with all the tools and in a level concrete floor with jack stands and jack.
     
  13. Jul 17, 2014 at 11:03 AM
    #13
    NewRider

    NewRider Well-Known Member

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    damn... you've got me beat! even if I was on the trail, I'd rather take out the extra 6 bolts and put the damn thing on a rock or tailgate before I lay up under there trying to beat it out..
     
  14. Jul 17, 2014 at 11:43 AM
    #14
    avw4x4

    avw4x4 Well-Hung Member

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    ...loading....
    Didn't take the time to watch the vids but here's what I did.

    Crawl under the truck with a 14mm wrench and ratchet, undo the 8 bolts for the driveshaft (single cab) and pull it out where you can easily work on it.

    Remove the retaining rings (4x with needle nose pliers)
    utabugur_981df919da671e73f9a1a0436f768066955cc3d4.jpg

    Put a 3/4 in socket ontop of the cap and pound it until the opposing cap is protruding from the driveshaft.
    edanytap_c60bc004281dcdbcc7dc38cfd39b986fb39d3853.jpg

    bu3a6aha_5ebdb22264bbfeeeade952ee82659d0fab891e11.jpg

    Pull the cap off (I used channel locks)
    edaqamem_e11a7c009bb77fc2dbe2466926827e0028e72c34.jpg

    Put the socket on the side with no cap and pound the other cap out the other side. At this point half the ujoint is free.

    9a2e5emu_81282e3c72e3c6ba1ab9b41e4426ab361c101099.jpg

    Do the same thing to the remaining 2 caps

    uma4uqyq_0dd7b971e3fd73773e53e1aff1ccf3b47e3497bf.jpg

    Pull the ujoint out and put the new one in. Installation is the opposite of removal.

    esa6utup_091b42b9ac6158e7548b945380f386a55e9d9b7e.jpg

    9a9y3asy_123e86d68b8750f33ed8026bf8a98e7f465f129b.jpg

    ge5ahedu_22328ee0773be7441eafbd7071ce54a1bcb56fca.jpg

    Those were the only pics I took. It's a super simple job. As others said, maybe half an hour from start to finish.
     
  15. Jul 17, 2014 at 12:19 PM
    #15
    Hans Moleman

    Hans Moleman Well-Known Member

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    The Moog joints are not that good. You can get Dana Spicer Life 1330 series for around $20 from a driveline shop.

    You should use a Harbor Freight U-Joint press kit instead of hammering on your driveline.
     
  16. Jul 17, 2014 at 12:51 PM
    #16
    avw4x4

    avw4x4 Well-Hung Member

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    ...loading....
    I was thinking about using a c-clamp but you'd be surprised how easy they come out. I'm not real worried about it.
     

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