Reverse Lights Not Working

IF the Switch fixes the problem and it's easy enough and cheap enough then I'd try to get the specs for the switch and check the amperage rating of the switch. Amperage (I)*V=W, so the switch will need to exceed 8.3 amps, lets say 10+ amps as that is the fuse used and it's not blowing. if the switch is rated higher you should be all set and can try it again. Of course, poorly designed/bad quality switches (if this is the case) can cause this to happen again my give you no recourse except to go back to OEM. Good Luck. And if you do find the answer = please post it - Thanks !

 

Just a little update. I got the new switch. I unplugged the old switch. I plugged the new switch in and used an clamp to close the circuit (its basically a button). And the back up lights worked. That was with the stock lights.

I will need to re install the 50w bulbs and see if that blows it again. I'm hoping the old switch just blew because it was old and weak.

I also need to get a hold of a 27mm socket to do the replacement.

Here is the switch by the way: $20

$19 Beck/Arnley 201-1788 Back-Up Switch

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001KSCYCI/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

I read in some thread that the sealing/crush washer with this switch acts like a depth setting. Should the switch seem flakey I'd try a different thickness washer/combos.

 

Yeah I feel like that would be the case if this problem happened slowly over time. In my case it happened directly after installing new bulbs. So I knew something blew. And it wasn't a fuse.

 

Are you sure that the switch is "Blown" or does it work when you push the switch in far enough (i.e. Switch was in in far enough?) ??? Just a thought..

 

I will inspect the old switch when I take it out.

 

use the phillips 35 watt bulb, still a big improvement over stock.

 

I already have the 50w bulbs. And other members use them with no problem. I just won't leave them on for long periods of time because they get hot.

 

the reason I went with 35 watt, not any hotter then stock.

 

Another solution is to use the line to power / pull in a relay. Lights to 12V through 10AMP fuse back to the fuse block. As others pointed out, be careful of hot lights melting expensive taillight assemblies ....

 

I will keep an eye on them.

 

I replaced the switch. Everything works now; the reverse lights and the in cab beep.
The strange thing is that I tested the old switch for continuity with my multimeter, and it still seems to work.
I also put the 50w bulbs back in and everything still works.

 

So, It wasn't the switch then.

 

Then why did it work after changing the switch? maybe it still has continuity but is too burned out to function properly.

Either way, the back up lights work now.

 

Prior threads eluded to the fact that the switch or the actuator /pin inside the tranny that pushes the switch appeared that is just "barely" makes the switch close. I mentioned previously that one poster removed the washer/seal between the switch and tranny and it fixed his problem. They actually were asking if there was some sort of a lever inside the transmission that pushes the pin that could be bent.

It's a long shot but if the switch was just barely barely making contact the higher wattage lamps could have arced the switch contacts and pushed the switch over the edge of working ????

 

How much resistance ( Ohms ) does the switch read when you press it to close the contacts?

Switches do not heal themselves.

 

It might be the reverse sensor