Lift kit horror

Here's another stupid question:if I wanted to do this in stages,to spread the money and work over time. Does anyone think I could replace the UCAs then wait maybe a month to install a lift?how bad would it be for the tires to drive around without the alignment,I put a out 100 miles a week on it. If it doesn't rain I wouldn't put any miles on it (I have a Challenger that does go out in the rain).

 

The CB drop may solve the vibes from the rear, it didn't with my first gen though. I ordered axle shims because of this which should actually work

 

I just lifted my 2014 with no issues! Drove it for 500 miles with the lift and stock tires to make sure I only felt the suspension. I did a install and review video for this:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TOQitKf37NA

 

Yet another stupid question. If I wanted to just level out my truck now and do a 3" lift later is there a shock/ strut that can do both?

 

The ToyTec BOSS kit is 0-3"... ride quality is a huge improvement over stock.

http://toyteclifts.3dcartstores.com/Boss-Suspension-System-for-05-Tacoma_p_15.html

 

I'd do the lift before the UCAs.

Coilovers can do this.

 

Here is the problem I have with a front diff drop: Yes, it does change the angle of the CV shaft, (albeit very little really) but at what cost? Lowering the diff moved the CV shaft closer to the pivot point of the lower control arm. A lift kit doesn't change where the lower control arm is located unless the kit comes with a control arm relocation bracket, which I don't think is available until you go with the big 6 inch kits. Moving the CV shaft closer to the pivot point can result in a greater chance of the center shaft part coming into contact with the LCA when the suspension is hanging. This is obviously bad for the CV shaft. I have seen damaged CV shafts from a diff drop. Although I will say it is rare, it CAN happen.

One thing that CAN help a bit with this is a long-travel kit, because as I recall, this gets the LCA set up where the shaft can't come in contact.

 

I think I might start out by getting the Boss coil overs and get the truck level. Then save up the cash and get the Chaos UCA and Dakars for the rear.

 

I just measured each corner. Driver front 34 1/8" driver rear 36 1/4". Passenger front 34 1/2" passenger rear 36 1/4". My truck is a '13 TX Pro access cab with 5000 miles. It seems that I am going to need 2" of lift in the front to level this out. From what I have been reading I thought there was a 1" difference. So if I was to get coil overs and set them for a 2" lift does anyone think I am going to have alignment issues? I really don't have the extra scrilla for UCA.

 

You shouldn't have a problem with 2" of lift. I have about 2.5" of lift with stock UCA's and have had no issues.

 

Get the coil overs and tell the vendor you want 1" of preload on the passenger and 1.25" of preload on the driver's side. You should be pretty level with that. Or just tell them your measurements and tell them what you want the end result to be.

 

Measure from the center of the wheel to the top of the fender opening for consistency. That takes tire/wheel differences (from truck to truck) out of the equation

 

my 13 has been lifted 3'' for about 8 months now and no problems at all!

 

I just measured this way,but I dont know how accurate it is.But both sides in the back are 22" and both sides in the front are 20".Are the Boss coil overs easy to adjust installed on the truck?

 

I was in the same boat as you before I did anything suspension wise to my truck... To many questions and not enough clear answers. Here's what I did. I have a 2010 taco dclb and did the ome lift from toytec with 885s, no aftermarket ucas bc anything under 3 is fine. The kit had a taco lean spacer on the driver side spring, and I didn't use any other spacer. The rear was an aal. Then I put 265/75/16 Goodyear wrangler authorities on it and loved how it turned out. Wouldn't do it any other way if I had to do it again. Had it aligned and turned out fine, drives straight, no vibes at any speed, and didn't use any shims or dif drop or carrier bearing drop. The cv axles don't look bad at all and aren't a ton different from stock on mine and doubt there will be any more wear than stock. There's also a ton of different opinions on the diff drop so I didn't do it and have had zero issues.
Hope this helps you out

 

If your going to spend that amount of coin on the Boss my suggestion would be to spend a little more and go with Icons you will have a better ride and be better off in the long run.
Ive ran the toytec,Icon and using King on the FJ TC long travel. The Tacoma has an RCD lift with Icons front and rear with the only issue of a slight vibration that was cured by flipping the CB and my CV angles are straight.

There all easy to adjust with the right tools except maybe King since your supposed to remove them to make adjustments, something to do with there threads but I never had any issues adjusting mine while on the vehicle just need to jack it up to take the load off.

ZZZ

 

How much did your setup cost?

 

In the end, about $5500. $3400 for the Icon Stage 4. The wheels were about $1000. The tires another $1000.

Not cheap by any means. Originally I was gonna go 6" with a cheaper kit that included blocks and spacers. But in the end that would have cost about the same.

Bob

 

What was the cost at the dealer for this lift if you don't mind me asking? Please, others chime in as well that had the dealer installed 3" lift.
Thanks in advance.

 

Nice looking truck. You get what you pay for and you got icons. Awesome!