Truck won't start, good battery - no power

2006 4.0 v6 dclb

Came out of the store, and nothing, no power, no lights came on or anything. Assumed it was a dead battery, got a jump off a guy, and it finally turned over and started after many attempts (10mins). Turned my headlights on for the drive home and it cut out my radio, so i turned both off to play her safe. Got home and shut her down and again wouldn't turn over. Then tried getting jumped again but this time it would only make the lights come on/radio etc. but when I tried to turn it over it would click and shut off - then no power at all when the key is in the ignition. Volt meter says 12 volts on the battery, and it's for sure getting 12 volts when jumped, but still for some reason no power. Didn't have any signs of a weak alternator, but maybe? Right now, when it gets boosted, almost 80% of the time there is zero power when the key is in the ignition, then everyone once in awhile it will all turn on to the point of ignition but when I try. Just click and it all dies. I'm going to check fuses now, any thoughts would be greatly appreciated, as I'd hate to have to take it to a shop.
Side note- I lost my gas cap about 500kms ago.. Doubt it has any thing to do with the problem.
Thanks!

 

Check your battery grounds.....

 

Your battery probably has a bad cell. That's why jump starting it doesn't work. It needs to be load tested just to make sure. It can show 12V but still be defective.

 

have someone hold it in the crank position while you wiggle the ground cables and ends.

 

how old is the battery?? these new ones just QUIT fast.
one day OK-next day-nothing.

 

A good battery should read more than 12 volts. Closer to 13 and around 14 when charging.

 

Dead battery. I just replaced mine today with a Sam's Club 27F Energizer battery for $99 3yr free replace. Had the True Start in there. Lasted 2 years and 3 months (dealers only warranties @ 24 months).

Mine wouldn't take a jump either. Good one second...dead the other.

 

Sounds like the battery. Most parts store will test them for free.

 

Had a similar problem when I first got my truck. Everytime I turned the key to the on position it would just click and not even turn over. I could jump start it but sometimes that didn't even work. Tested battery, alternator, and starter and all were at 100%. Mechanic said it sounded like the starter was dying. They replaced the starter and it's worked fine for the last 6 months no problems.

 

Sorry I should have mentioned
Battery is decently new
It's a 6-7 month old optima red top, voltmeter actually read 12.94v.
All the fuses seem just fine.

I go over after it not working at all, and somehow it had a charge to turn the lights on, but again I try and click and dead. Then no power.

 

Get someone to hold the key in the start position while you check voltage at the battery posts. Not the cable clamps, the actual lead posts coming out of the battery. Most likely the 12 volt reading you have with no load will drop out to near nothing with the key turned to start. If that happens, dead battery.

I sold batteries for awhile, the fact that it's near new means nothing. The Optimas and the Exide orbitals seemed to fail a lot compared to normal batteries.

 

Dealer just changed mine, same price, looks like 84 months, Toyota batteries are good batteries

 

Dealer 24 Month free replacement thereafter it is 50% of whatever MSRP they are doing. If you had dealer replace it check Toyota Owners website as they have a $25 rebate.

My truck is a 2011 and I have went through 2 Toyota True Starts. I live in the AZ desert I have never had a battery last longer than 3 years.

 

Check the fuses. I had a 2005 civic with a new battery and nothing would turn on, no dashboard, lights, radio, etc. Called a friend, who's a Honda tech, said to pull the battery fuse, check if it is burnt, flick it, and put it back in and, bingo. The car started.

 

probley made by the same company, it has been my experience over the years that a battery warranty, really isn't worth much. I hear ya on the heat, I purchased this one (09) In MN, & it will in all probability spend its last days in the desert, like you say, battery life & I suppose tires, will be replaced much sooner

 

I would attempt a new battery, a non AGM at that. Optima's are notorious for giving starting issues down the road after they've been in for a while. If you are still having the issue. It would be wise to strongly suspect the alternator of being bad, assuming all of your connections, both positive and grounds are tight and good to go.

 

+1, not getting the amps to power anything. Seen this happen many times.

 

12 volts on a battery is not a good battery. It should read around 12.65. Most likely a bad cell. Have it load tested and go from there.

 

FIXED?????