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2011 Flatbed Build

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Builds (2005-2015)' started by SMKYTXN, Sep 2, 2014.

  1. Jan 22, 2015 at 6:13 PM
    #661
    XPOTRPR

    XPOTRPR CNC Programmer/Machinist

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    > BUILD LINKS >
    was more so directed at the post above me.. :pout: lol
     
  2. Jan 22, 2015 at 6:20 PM
    #662
    jmg256

    jmg256 Calmer than you are

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  3. Jan 23, 2015 at 5:39 AM
    #663
    wdb

    wdb intolerance intolerant

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    Cut the slot and cover it with a "T" shaped cap piece that you can fasten down within the slot itself. I'm picturing thin steel, maybe stainless or powder coated. It will cover the gap, allow for expansion/contraction, and provide a clean look.
     
  4. Jan 23, 2015 at 5:46 AM
    #664
    SMKYTXN

    SMKYTXN [OP] If it can't be overdone it's not worth doing Vendor

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    I was thinking the same thing. My thought was to have it underneath, but that would mean there would be a bulge in the deck. Having it above isn't a bad idea. I could secure it to one side of the deck and free float it on the other side. Good idea! :thumbsup:
     
  5. Jan 23, 2015 at 8:02 AM
    #665
    Pigpen

    Pigpen My truck is never clean

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    Mine is all warped and wavy year round. The expansion from the first summer never fully shrank. I even used white to help mitigate the problem. It's still very functional, and I'm the only one who sees it since it's inside the dump bed.
     
  6. Jan 23, 2015 at 8:12 AM
    #666
    SMKYTXN

    SMKYTXN [OP] If it can't be overdone it's not worth doing Vendor

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    Got it. Guess it's just a problem that you have to deal with. There's a red version that handles high heat, like hauling hot asphalt. I wonder if it has the same issues. It's way too expensive to use as a truck bed deck though.
     
  7. Jan 23, 2015 at 9:46 AM
    #667
    wdb

    wdb intolerance intolerant

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    If you're going to attach it to the deck it does not have to be "T" shaped. Just a flat plate would do. "T" would be more rigid though.
     
  8. Jan 28, 2015 at 2:51 PM
    #668
    Wasatch

    Wasatch Well-Known Member

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    Hey SMKYTXN,

    Sorry if this has been discussed before, but I noticed you have a traction bar on your truck (Looks like a BudBuilt)- how is it?

    Has it helped with drive-line vibes or "clunking" at all? Notice anything different while shifting or punching on the gas?

    Cheers.
     
  9. Jan 28, 2015 at 2:56 PM
    #669
    SMKYTXN

    SMKYTXN [OP] If it can't be overdone it's not worth doing Vendor

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    I'm running the ATO traction bar. It does a fair job, but it's actually not quite long enough. The front shackle needs to be nearly vertical, but the bar isn't long enough to achieve that angle. I'm considering building a new one. If your leafs flex a lot then it may not provide enough resistance to axle wrap.
     
  10. Jan 28, 2015 at 2:57 PM
    #670
    Wasatch

    Wasatch Well-Known Member

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    Good to know. Thanks for the insight.
     
  11. Jan 30, 2015 at 4:22 PM
    #671
    Deerhunter1911a1

    Deerhunter1911a1 Jeeper gone Taco!

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    SUBD! Holy Balls this is awesome!
     
  12. Feb 6, 2015 at 1:53 PM
    #672
    EL JEFE 83

    EL JEFE 83 Well-Known Member

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    Very nice build!!! Enjoyed seeing the progress!
     
  13. Feb 6, 2015 at 6:44 PM
    #673
    capturecolorado

    capturecolorado Well-Known Member

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    Hey Smoky, I'm about to be wiring up the LED tail lights on my flatbed tomorrow or sometime the next few days - what did you do for running the wires to the stop/turn lead? Since the OEM wiring has 2 leads going to the halogen bulb, and 1 lead on the LED units. Did you just splice them into the one lead? I remember you had some problems with that, just don't recall what page that info landed on :)
     
  14. Feb 7, 2015 at 1:23 PM
    #674
    SMKYTXN

    SMKYTXN [OP] If it can't be overdone it's not worth doing Vendor

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    Mine are still not correct, but they're close. I bought a relay off of Amazon that was supposed to take the two signal wires and combine them, but it didn't work at all. So I have a diode in line with each brake and turn signal wire so I don't get feedback into all of the lights. I also picked up a resistor to keep the hyperflash down. Good luck with it.
     
  15. Feb 7, 2015 at 5:41 PM
    #675
    capturecolorado

    capturecolorado Well-Known Member

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    Dang, I was hoping you'd have the solution :) Well I think I'll be able to get to wiring stuff Monday or Tuesday, if I stumble across a solution I'll let you know. I assume with the second gen it's set up the same way - a dual filament bulb with two leads to the bulb?

    The bed looks great, by the way!
     
  16. Feb 7, 2015 at 6:24 PM
    #676
    jeverich

    jeverich Well-Known Member

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    I put LED ovals into my headache rack; and just spliced into the existing trailer light harness. Works just fine - and eliminated any BS with hyper flash, etc.

    I used two wire (brake/running/turn) 6 LED ovals.

    Keep in mind with the 4 wire setup, the brake and running light share a common lead - while the turn each rewquire their own "hot". Sounds stupid, but I felt like an idiot when I forgot the fact that they needed to be seperate...
     
  17. Mar 11, 2015 at 9:00 AM
    #677
    ThirdCoast

    ThirdCoast Well-Known Member

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    [​IMG]
     
  18. Dec 3, 2015 at 9:08 AM
    #678
    phillstill

    phillstill Long hair don't care

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    Oh My!!!! Look at that hair! :rofl:
     
  19. Dec 3, 2015 at 9:09 AM
    #679
    SMKYTXN

    SMKYTXN [OP] If it can't be overdone it's not worth doing Vendor

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    You had to go and be all grown up with your new haircut. :D
     
  20. Dec 3, 2015 at 9:11 AM
    #680
    phillstill

    phillstill Long hair don't care

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    LOL, yeah.
     
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