Sloshing in dash and coolant not returning to radiator from overflow

Unfortunately I tossed them all.

What would have eventually happened if you left it?

 

I went 6 months before I tore mine down for repair. I started with just the occasional gurgle after startup, and got the to point that sitting at an intersection you could hear it constantly gurgling away. It slowly gets worse and worse and eventualy, you will get a misfire on cylinder 6 on startup, and check engine light on. Left too long, you might get an overheat with damaged cylinder head etc. Not really sure the long term effects as I wasn't willing to let mine get that far to find out.

I did have a Toyota mechanic suggest just dumping some irontite in it and seeing if it fixes it. If not, nothing lost other than the cost of the irontite.
Also, you could just go till she blows, then swap in another low mile motor.
The head gaskets are an expensive repair even doing it youself, so it's worth considering all the choices.

 

Did you replace the timing chain and tensioners?

 

Changed one tensioner on chain 3 because the plastic slider fell off and broke when it hit the floor.

All other chains and tensioners originals went back in. They were fine and should be good for a lot more that 160000kms.

Just added up the bills and it cost me $1200 including a oem full engine gasket set, machining, and coolant, oil etc.

 

Wow, thought DIY wouldn't be that much

 

When I bought my current truck last year (from a Toyota dealer) it had 122k on it. About 600 miles later I started noticing the gurgling and a slight miss at idle when cold. Thought it was odd but then the CE light came on with a cylinder 6 misfire. So I pulled the plugs and coils on that side. Noticed number 6 was cleaner than the rest. Took photos of it. Swapped the number 5 coil onto number 6 and still had an occasional misfire on 6. Called the dealer and after some choice but calm words they agreed to fix it at no cost under their standard 30 day/1000 mile warranty. I would have been completely comfortable fixing it myself otherwise but for free hell yes. And the paperwork did indicate it was about 3 grand. I'm absolutely convinced that's why the previous owner traded it. Truck was in amazing shape and the service records indicated he was in it for the long haul.

 

Mine was all with oem parts including all new head bolts. Stuff adds up quick.
It could be done much cheaper with aftermarket parts, but for that much work, I wasn't willing to take the cheap route.

 

It's not. I think the OP said he's short on funds. If you are good with your hands and tools and can think things through then I'd give it a shot.

Do some research on how to do it and decide.

It will take you far far more time to do it than an experienced mechanic. But that's ok. Take your sweet time. It's not like you have to do it for a living.

One of the things that give Tacomas a great resale value is that they are easy to work on. Here is where you might have an opportunity to cash in on that benefit.

 

Oh, one other thing. You tube videos. Camera phones to take pictures of all of those nuts and bolts as you dissasemble. Great people here to help if you get stuck. Good literature available online with tech specs on exactly what's required.

Just make sure it's your gasket before you start tearing into it. I liked that suggestion above regarding the test strips. That's sweet.

 

Which parts are expensive? How much?

 

Here are my costs
Complete OEM engine gasket set $340
OEM Head bolts $170
Machine and pressure/vacuum test heads $380
#3 Chain Tensioner $48
Coolant $75
2 oil changes and filters $60
Snap on Bi Hex driver $40
Plus a few other bits and pieces.

I wouldn't have wanted to spend too much more than that as for $2500 I could have bought a used Japan motor and just changed it out. I figured since I know my engine that it was worth it. If you start changing chains etc, probably cheaper in the long run to start with a new engine.

Or you could use aftermarket gaskets and bolts, and go the economy route. For me, saving a couple hundred dollars for that much work wasn't worth it.

 

Still holding out on the repair on this one! Waiting for the check engine and keeping an eye on my oil.

 

I am also having the same issues with my Tacoma. I have a 175k miles, and have vacuum filled the coolant system, and burped it. I do not have a miss but I will pull the plugs to take a look. I did put it under a vacuum and after 5 minutes it lost it. I did not do a compression test but that is next. What should the compression spec be? Is it cylinder number 6?

 

This is for kiteman. When you machined the heads how much did you take off? And what is the factory spec on how much is allowed to take off the head?

 

good thread. sub'd

 

I think I'm in the same boat, just with an older motor (3RZ). Pretty sure this is why the previous owner traded it too. It took me a year to notice though, so doubt the dealer would gimme a hand.

Here is my thread:
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/1st-gen-tacomas/350804-dead-head-gasket.html

 

I have an 05' and I've had gurgling in my dash for about one year. About 9 months ago the coolant level slowly began to decline. This past summer it overheated a lot; I flushed the sytem, cleaned the radiator, got a new cap, and changed the thermostat. Oh, and spark plug #3 failed. I'm not sure if that's related but I've come to the conclusion it has to be the head gasket. Damn! I can't do it myself but I can't afford $3,000 to replace it (dealer quote) ARgh.

 

I'm not sure how much exactly came off the heads. Just enough to flatten them again. You could see in some spots nothing was taken off, and others where it had been skimmed. The shop said the only area not flat was around cylinder #6 where the leak happened.

My truck is still running great. No more soot in the tailpipe either.
Worth the time and expense to fix it up.

 

I was told that it is difficult to get the air out of the system. After you replaced the head gaskets did the sloshing coolant go away?

 

Absolutely no sloshing coolant/gurgling heater core anymore. Truck runs like new.

After the gaskets were replaced, it burped like any normal vehicle. Not hard to get the air out at all. When the gasket was leaking, you can burp it all you want, and the air will never go away.