Scotch Brite scratch removal

your going with the cheapest place on your 2 month old truck?

almost sounds as bad as using scotch brite to wash your truck.

just remember you get what you pay for.

 

This guy has no clue about paint restoration lol. Disregard all that he says.

Clay barring will do nothing for removing scratches. Clay bar a car to remove environmental fallout, road grime and other debris that cling to the paint that a normal car wash will not remove.

The scratches left by the scotch brite pad should be removable by a detailer who know how to use a d/a buffer. Depending on the depth of the scratches a more aggressive pad and compound may be necessary.

Fwiw, I am a car detailer.

 

Some day you'll both laugh about this..I know, today is not that day, but it will happen.

Meantime you got the right idea of the tires as a bribe..

 

You might consider the Plast-dip treatment on you're bumper and other plastic parts. It might have enough texture to cover the scratches. I've not used it yet, but I'm seriously considering it for my bumpers.

 

thhehehehehhe

 

As for the painting to match, I did ask about that but both shops recommended against it, siting the durability concerns but also added cost in labor. It might be for the best too, all my previous vehicles were heavily chipped up front.

On the PLUS! My gf took me over to local tire shop during her lunch. Came home in Cooper at3's at 265/70r16 (stock were 245s). Parked facing away, haha, its looking very nice.

This place is reputable in the area and I've used them several times in the past without issue. Always been pleased with their work. Still nervous considering the the truck is new and $1000 ain't cheap. Was hoping I'd find a way out, but the plastics are just too messed up.

 

I had an ex that used the window squeegee at the gas station to remove bird shit and pollen from her hood, roof and trunk of her VW Golf. Scratched the shit out of all of it, since the car was filthy anyway and she SCRUBBED the paint with a beat to shit, super harsh squeegee head.

Detail shop did a buff and polish on it and it looked none the worse. People do silly things, your girlfriend sounds like a sweetheart. Best of intentions is a good quality to find in a person. Good luck!

 

oh, btw, what color is your truck? have you thought about looking for another bumper that a member has removed for an aftermarket bumper? or even an aftermarket bumper yourself? don't get me wrong, i would spend the money too, that would bother me all the time, just brainstorming on ways where it wouldn't be AS much a waste

 

Guess it/similar happens more than I thought haha.

Nammer, it's magnetic gray. I had thought about that too, but sided with getting it all done in one swoop and put this incident in the past asap. Put down a small deposit on the parts about an hour ago, so its just a short waiting game at this point.

Do appreciate the suggestions that came in though.

 

sounds good! i agree with peerunner, ur girl sounds like a sweetheart

 

Just spray on a lite coat of clear coat into the scratches then wet sand and buff.

 

Wow. Really man? Nice advice. Where do you buy your clear coat, Home Depot?
Lol

 

Would it be possible to take a picture of the hood in the sun or at an angle where you can see the scratches? I would hate to see you spend $900 on new paint when a $100 buff will get the same results. I wish you were closer, I would try and buff it out for you. I know this was already stated but a clay bar DOES NOT remove any scratches, it only takes particles off the surface that have bonded to the paint over time.

A good rule of thumb for scratches is if you run your thumb nail over the scratch and it catches, it probably won't buff out. I am willing to bet a wool pad and a heavy cutting compound would take the scratches out though.

 

I get it from the local branch of this outlet:

http://www.tascoautocolor.com/

It is not hard to redo the clear coat.

 

Sorry Lloyd but you are wrong. "Redoing" the clear coat is not a process most can do.

One must prep the surface of the whole panel first by stripping any wax. Then the whole panel must be wet sanded with a very fine sandpaper. Like 1500 grit.

The surface must then be thoroughly cleaned before a high quality (DuPont, PPG eft.) top coat (clear coat) is applied with a professional HPLV (high pressure low volume) spray gun.

A skilled painter is a must or you will never have the right texture of finish. Orange peel (texture of paint) is very common even with a pro painters. Then you have more wet sanding followed by buffing. This is why a good paint job costs so much.

So yeah, don't listen to what Lloyd is trying to make you believe.

 

yeah buying clear coat online and spraying a litre on has got to be the worst advice you could give.

 

It is not that big a deal to do. Is the shop just spraying new clear coat or base coat clear coat?

 

on the cheap, ill throw out that satin black goes with everything but brown, just sayin

 

Even if the texture is off, The wet sanding will smooth it out. You will sand it down to the original clear coat and just leave the new paint in the scratches.

 

Dude give it up Lloyd. You don't know what you are talking about. Nobody without car painting experience should be shooting clear coat on their car, period.

It's not NEARLY as simple as you say or think. I used to do auto body for a number of years. I knew all the processes involved with painting cars. I was able to shoot primer with an HVLP gun no problem. Even base coated a few cars (single pannels only).

When it came to shooting the clear coat, I left that to the professional painter. It takes some serious skill to properly lay on a few coats of clear without too much orange peel.

Even the pros will not be able to lay it on completely smooth in nearly every case. Most will just leave the panel as is without wet sanding out the orange peel. Therefore the smooth texture of the factory paint will not match the texture of the new orange peeled coat.

That is why having to have your car painted after an accident sucks so much. It will never perfectly match the factory paint. Secondly, the preparation below the paint (sanding and cleaning sanding debris, then cleaning with pre paint cleaner) is as important as the paint job itself. I don't trust anybody to prep my pannels but myself. I've seen so many good paint jobs peel off after a year or less due to careless painters helpers doing crap prep jobs.