Is it time to replace the HUBs? Rotors Warping...

The Truck: 2007 Tacoma, 2WD, Pre-Runner

Mods: EBC Dimpled and Slotted (Sport) Rotors, w/ EBC Yellow Stuff Pads. Otherwise bone stock.

The Issue: In short: warped Rotors.

This issue began some 15K miles ago, when I still had OEM brakes on the truck. The Original rotors had been warped badly and needed replacing. Not sure of why they warped, I decided to simply replace with new rotors and pads.

I installed the EBC brakes, and they worked like magic for the first 8,000 miles aprox. Then they began to warp, and wobble as well. Immediately I call the rep from EBC and explain my frustration. He tell me that this is fairly common with my truck and that I needed to have an, "on car lathe" performed; rational for on-car lathe is that the run-out from the hub would be duplicated on the rotor (Makes sense right?) I thought so, and for the first 6,000 miles they were back to perfect.

Now, I'm right back to having warped EBC rotors and unsure of how to fix this issue. I want to replace the part that is causing the rotor warp, before I put new rotors and pads on-again!

I've seen nice hubs on the forum here for aprox. $500, before I go replacing these I wanted to get some input. have of you experienced this issue, did replacing HUBs fix the issue? Do you think it could be the calipers, or Master? Is there a way to test the MC or Calipers? Looking for some thoughts, direction, or solutions. Thank you in advance!

 

I would actually suspect caliper, or master cylinder issue at this point. With so many times with different rotors being warped, something is causing it. Warping comes from usually either excessive heat on the rotors (stuck/binding caliper(s) or master cylinder) or sudden cooling after getting hot from normal braking.

 

Funny, same setup here and same thing happened to me after about 5k miles. Idc really though I just learn to live with it

 

Some believe that ceramic race pads can kill rotors used on vehicles that are not raced.

Not saying yours are ceramic, but on the EBC web site - yellowstuff - ones is led to wonder if these are race-rated?

 

did you bed the pads n rotors in at all? if not you might never get them up to temp and thus cause uneven pad distribution on the rotors causing a pulsating sensation.

 

I did take the time to bed them in, maybe it is time to just move back to OEM. I don't race, but like quality parts and being that I do all my own work-thought I'd spring for the nice stuff.

 

Have you replaced the wheel bearings? My truck had a terrible shake under braking and turned out to be the wheel bearings. Replaced both and have been good since.

 

OEM toyota brakes have never let me down, its what i put on all my yotas and have gotten the best overall life out of em.

6-8 HARD (to just under abs activation) 60-5mph stops back to back (till you start smelling them) then without stopping drive a couple miles to allow the rotors to properly cool. The entire process never stopping


But check the wheel bearings, pretty easy to check em.

 

What ft/lbs do you torque your wheels to??

If you over-tighten your wheels....can warp rotors.

I always torque mine to 100ft/lbs on all my vehicles and never have any problems. I think the recommended torque is 85ftlbs.

 

torque for lugs on the tacoma is 83FTlbs.

 

If it does end up having something to do with the hub/bearing assemblies, I can help with those of course. I would check some of the things that have been mentioned before replacing anything though.

 

in the motorcycle world EBC makes the crappiest parts out there.

they are known for warping rotors and crappy pads that glaze up fast.

 

yeah, tried one set on my dirbike, hated them. and they were for the rear. stuck with OEM honda pads, or DP HH pads... much better. I personally wont touch EBC.

 

the torque wrench is the correct answer in many cases. if you don't use one warping of rotors can and usually does happen

 

if its only 1 rotor warping I would suspect the caliper. If its both front rotors then I would go back to OEM. My Taco still has the original rotors at 54K miles. OEMs are super quality.

 

I would inspect wheel bearings for slop and calipers for sticking, and if all is good, just get a set of Wagner or Raybestos pads and rotors and try those...Every new MOPAR I have bought in the last 20 years has needed front rotors in the first 20k miles, be it Ram, Jeep, Plymouth...

So in brakes, quality counts.

Howard

 

Thank you sincerely for all of the suggestions. I was told by Toyota dealer that my wheel bearings still looked good, but at 98,000 miles I'd just assume replace them.

I'm thinking replace the rotors w/ OEM, and a good set of pads. Bearing will be brand new, and so long as the calipers are functioning smoothly we should be good.

 

use a torque wrench!!!!

 

I once ruined a couple of rotors from a brake line swelling...

 

Well if you decide to replace the bearings, check out my sig! (Shameless plug)