need help...changing rotors and brake pads ..

I'm in the middle of changing out my rorotors and pads....any suggestions on how to get a rorotor off that doesn't want to move? I've hit it with a hammer and it still won't move. I guess that's what 6 winters up to tahoe will do.

I appreciate any suggestions. .thx!!!

 

Does the rotor have the 2 tapped holes for the push out bolt?

 

Yes there is two holes by the lugs. What's the push out bplt?

 

Usually those holes have threads in them. You get a bolt with that threading, then thread them into the holes, tighten them EVENLY (a couple cranks at a time to keep the rotor from getting stuck on the lugs at an angle) and the bolts will push on the hub (behind the rotor) and basically force the rotor off. At least that's how it is on my Honda. Haven't had to to brake rotors on my Tacoma yet.

 

Normally when this happens you thread a bolt into both holes and slowly and evenly tighten each one, this will cause the end of the bolt to push against the hub and drive the rotor away from the hub that it is mechanically welded to.

Be careful and make sure that you use the correct sized bolts for this (they may be metric).

Will post a video when I find a good one. So far all the videos show some idiot beating the heck out of the rotor with a hammer.

 

that's my go to for stuck rotors. Heat and beat works great if you do it properly.

If the tacoma has the pusher bolts that's the first time I've ever seen those. Always thought that would be a good idea.

 

Does any one know what size bolt...I'm on my way to the hardware store now

 

I think that it was an M10 on my wife's Lexus. It is very important that you get the exact bolt to match the threads on the rotor because there will be a ton of stress on that bolt.

BTW. When you do this be aware that when this method breaks the mechanical weld between the rotor and hub it will sound almost like a gunshot.

The reason is that when you tighten up those bolts you are storing a ton of mechanical energy in the bolts which gets released with a bang when the rust/weld breaks.

 

Make sure the threads on the rotor are clean and apply some anti seize or some type of lube to the jacking bolts, tighten evenly and you may still need the aid of a dead blow.

 

The OP says that he has the holes on the rotor, wouldn't be a bad idea for him to post a pic so that we can be sure that we are telling him to do the right thing.

I just spent 20 min searching YouTube for a video that uses the pusher bolt. None that I could find (plenty of people with hammers and torches though.)

 

The thread size should be M8x1.25.

Once they bottom against he hub, crank them in 1/4 turn at a time until the rotor pops free, if it seems like it won't pop free before stripping the threads, a sharp rap or two with a hammer should break it free once the pusher bolts are loaded up.

 

Thanks for all everyones help. I went to the hardware store and got a bunch of bolts. I'm not sure what size I ended up using but it worked. Exact bolt size, cranked them in, and the rotors came right off.....Thanks again!!!!!!!

 

Damn, wish I had seen this earlier, the bolts are the same size that hold the air intake pipe down... I just used those to pipe the rotors off, but glad you got them!

 

Now before you put new rotors on go to an auto parts store and buy a bottle of anti-seize. If you coat the surface of the hub where the rotor rests against you won't have this problem again. Hope this helps.

 

Much better than all those youtube videos of guys whacking the rotor with a big hammer?

 

don't forget to "bed" your new brakes. I hear it makes a big difference with new rotors and pads