Loose lug nuts on aluminum wheels?

I worked in manufacturing for decades. It's called "specifications". Specifications, for a tool industry (including packaging, shipping, storage and others) could indeed be different than for a merchandising industry.

There are also unique expectations for workmanship in an industry. For example, in the conduction industry, a finish carpenter is going to handle and store lumber differently than a framer.

Not saying there must be different specs. But there certainly could be, and most likely are. I'm not surprised there are people here who say they have experienced it.

Ok ?

 

It's basic stuff. Please take the time to look it up yourself. Try "specifications" and "standards of workmanship". You'll learn that they are vastly different between different industries. Draw your own conclusions, please.

I'm not trying to invalidate your experiences. I'm sure that they are exactly as you claim. I'm also sure that other's experiences here are exactly as they claim. I don't really even care.

 

Let me try again, more plainly.

I can believe the negative experiences that some here have mentioned.

One possible explanation for their* experiences could be differences between "specifications" and "standards of workmanship" between different industries.

I think that my point is fairly basic. I don't feel like finding documentation.

 

That's perfectly correct. But that's all at this time. I may contribute more, from time to time, as I may care more, or less. Until then, my posts will have to serve as your source, as meager as they are.

 

Truly fascinating. "Back pedaling?" Seriously? I love these little tweaks! Little one liners like 'Ok' or 'Where's your justification'.

They take only a moment to write but require an almost endless reply. And it doesn't matter how detailed the reply is. Just hit them with another "Ok".

Not that you are trolling. I'm not saying that. But those little one-liners seem to be having that effect on me.

I will call them "Troll Tweaks"

 

Have no problem with you. You seem like a good guy. I truly apologise here where everyone can see. I have a feeling that we could have some fun debates over a beer. But where I come from an accusation of "back pedaling" is a clear insult to a person's honesty. I'll try to lighten up, but it's tough when you hit me with that stuff.

 

Ships from and sold by Amazon.com

is different than

Sold by "vendor" and Fulfilled by Amazon

is different than

Ships from and sold by "vendor"

I didn't see if you mention this particular aspect so you can't blame Amazon if it's not coming from their warehouse.

a Snap-On truck visits my mechanic uncle once a month. they do repairs, replaces, and of course the main goal is sales. this could be a private contractor selling Snap-On products (as is the case for most of this type of sales)

 

Just got my wheel locks in... what's the protocol for replacing just one of the nuts with a wheel lock?

 

Retorque them to factory specs like you would any lug nuts. No difference. You can but not necessary loosen all lugs and retorque them with the new wheel lock together. I just remove the single lug and replace it with a wheel lock and torque it down to factory specs. Drove over 5k miles with no issues.

 

Got it. Thank you.

 

I have the same issue with 4 runner wheels on my tacoma. I was lasting ~200 miles till finger tight. torqued to spec.

I think the lugs were either on way to tight by tire shop. It took lots of impact wrenching to get them off. One of the studs was broken on the rear wheel.

Anyway, I got the extended thread lug nuts and they seat the wheel better. They still seem to loosen up although slower. I check every few hundred miles. Its odd because I did not have this issue on the steel rims.

Im wondering if there is corrosion so the wheels are not sitting flat enough when I put them on. I am going to clean up the rear and report back.

I am putting new wheel bearings on so that should fix the issue in front. I think im just going to pound in new studs on the rear, because it freaks me out now. I've seen a wheel come off on the highway and its not fun. $20 at autozone for new studs.

 

The factory aluminum wheels use a different style of lug nut, so keep that in mind. Rock Auto has these for 39 cents each...
DORMAN 611211 Mag Nut; Flat Seat; Closed End; 21 mm Hex; (Color: Natural) Info
Color: Natural; Overall Length: 1.437 in

 

I am using Gorrilla lug nuts with more threads:

$30 Gorilla Automotive 21134ETBC Black 12mm x 1.50 Thread Size Chrome Finish Small Diameter 6-Lug Kit, (Pack of 24)

https://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-Auto...t=&hvlocphy=9033419&hvtargid=pla-522323990080

 

those won't work with the factory aluminum wheels that need the flat washer (mag) style. The cone lug nuts are for steel wheels.

 

I think you probably have stretched studs due to them being over tightened and they will never hold torque now. Needing an impact to loosen and having a broken stud are the clues and it's a more common problem than people realize. Follow through on your plan to replace them all and be sure to use the correct lug nuts.

 

The same happened as @Cape Codder, one of the few times I had someone touch the wheels. I was lucky to catch it before catastrophe (one lug nut was still holding the wheel on) but it was 12+ hours from home. Luckily I was on my way to @Mike's Custom Toys 20 miles away who had me back on the road in an hour. They came loose and several sheered off. Over-torquing them is a big no-no with these studs. I torque to 85 on conical ones that are on most aftermarket wheels and check them regularly to make sure. Never use an impact which is a high chance at any shop.

Other recommendations about cross tightening and all that is given.

 

Well, I was today years old when I learned there are conical and mag lug nuts. This is the first time Ive run into this. Maybe this was always the issue. *Feels Dumb*

 

I scanned thru this thread, I did not see mention of the rust/oxidize that happens on pretty much every aluminum rim, I clean the backside of the rim and rotor mounting surface on every wheel i pull. that build up of rust/oxide if not cleaned allows the wheel to work its self loose. steel rims dont seem to have the same issue

 

a cup type wire wheel in a drill works or 3M abrasive cookie (purple color ) works even better