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LED LIGHT BAR WIRING HELP!!!!

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by Gkirkham, Mar 21, 2015.

  1. Mar 22, 2015 at 10:09 AM
    #21
    Gkirkham

    Gkirkham [OP] Goose

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    3" lift, aftermarket wheels, aftermarket grill, DERPED hood scoop insert and grill housing, 50" light bar on top of the cab.
  2. Mar 22, 2015 at 10:13 AM
    #22
    Gkirkham

    Gkirkham [OP] Goose

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    3" lift, aftermarket wheels, aftermarket grill, DERPED hood scoop insert and grill housing, 50" light bar on top of the cab.
  3. Mar 22, 2015 at 10:14 AM
    #23
    Gkirkham

    Gkirkham [OP] Goose

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    3" lift, aftermarket wheels, aftermarket grill, DERPED hood scoop insert and grill housing, 50" light bar on top of the cab.
  4. Mar 22, 2015 at 10:32 AM
    #24
    Up2NoGood

    Up2NoGood Well-Known Member

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    You haven't connected number 2 on your switch? Looks to me like you need power to there which will transfer to pin 3 and energize the relay when the switch is on.
     
  5. Mar 22, 2015 at 10:40 AM
    #25
    Gkirkham

    Gkirkham [OP] Goose

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    Haha I know it's pretty thick shit. I just did it that way cause that's how it was wired on the truck before it was mine.
     
  6. Mar 22, 2015 at 10:41 AM
    #26
    Gkirkham

    Gkirkham [OP] Goose

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    3" lift, aftermarket wheels, aftermarket grill, DERPED hood scoop insert and grill housing, 50" light bar on top of the cab.


    So I need to run power from the battery to number 2?
     
  7. Mar 22, 2015 at 10:42 AM
    #27
    Up2NoGood

    Up2NoGood Well-Known Member

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    Yeah just noticed the gauge too. Not sure of the amperage of your lights but 10 awg is quite overkill. Anyhow your problem is not having power fed to number 2 contact of the switch. A jumper from pin 6 to 2 on your switch will result in the lower light bein on whenever your dash lights are on and also having a power source to trigger the relay. To do a quick confirm you could take the lead from pin 6 and put it on 2 instead... This should make your relay actuate but won't illuminate your bottom switch light until a jumper is in place.
     
  8. Mar 22, 2015 at 10:48 AM
    #28
    Gkirkham

    Gkirkham [OP] Goose

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    3" lift, aftermarket wheels, aftermarket grill, DERPED hood scoop insert and grill housing, 50" light bar on top of the cab.

    But that's only going to fix the LED in the switch right? Cause I can't even get the light bar to turn on. We rearranged some connections on the relay and got the bar to turn on but wouldn't turn off.
     
  9. Mar 22, 2015 at 10:51 AM
    #29
    Up2NoGood

    Up2NoGood Well-Known Member

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    Depends on when you want to be able to turn on your light bar. All of these examples would be fed to pin 2 on your switch...

    1) fused lead direct from battery.... Light bar can be turned on anytime regardless if truck is started or not

    2) fused lead tapped into ignition switched power... Light bar can only be turned on when the truck is started, doesn't matter if headlights are on or not

    3) fused lead tapped into dash illumination.... Light bar can only be turned on when your dash lights are on (when your headlights are on)

    Hope that helps
     
  10. Mar 22, 2015 at 10:53 AM
    #30
    Up2NoGood

    Up2NoGood Well-Known Member

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    Is it currently wired exactly as shown on your hand drawing? I'll take a quick look at everything on there
     
  11. Mar 22, 2015 at 11:00 AM
    #31
    deeezy

    deeezy Well-Known Member

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    pin 3 on your switch needs a wire going to the relay. That supply's 12 V to trigger the relay.

    Looks. like your missing that, so you don't have any outgoing 12 V from the switch to the relay.
     
    Last edited: Mar 22, 2015
  12. Mar 22, 2015 at 11:05 AM
    #32
    Up2NoGood

    Up2NoGood Well-Known Member

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    Ok there are some issues with how you wired the relay... Give me a couple min and we I'll type out what you need to run...
     
  13. Mar 22, 2015 at 11:09 AM
    #33
    Up2NoGood

    Up2NoGood Well-Known Member

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    Your relay should be like this.....
    86 - to ground (correct)
    85 - to number 3 of your switch
    30 - fused power source (correct)
    87 - to positive on you light bar
     
  14. Mar 22, 2015 at 11:17 AM
    #34
    Up2NoGood

    Up2NoGood Well-Known Member

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    You also need fused power to number 2 on your switch... See previous post on where to get that power from depending on what situation you would like to be able to turn on your lights
     
  15. Mar 22, 2015 at 11:33 AM
    #35
    Gkirkham

    Gkirkham [OP] Goose

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    3" lift, aftermarket wheels, aftermarket grill, DERPED hood scoop insert and grill housing, 50" light bar on top of the cab.
    image_zpszmj3wls1_cc8a4a5c9fc1a7306d4144a0aa3692130fb97fb8.jpg

    If I used this diagram would it work?
     
  16. Mar 22, 2015 at 11:34 AM
    #36
    Gkirkham

    Gkirkham [OP] Goose

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    3" lift, aftermarket wheels, aftermarket grill, DERPED hood scoop insert and grill housing, 50" light bar on top of the cab.
    I guess I would just switch 85 and 86 than it would be like what your saying
     
  17. Mar 22, 2015 at 11:44 AM
    #37
    Up2NoGood

    Up2NoGood Well-Known Member

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    The diagram you posted should work just fine. No NEED to switch 85 and 86... 85 can be ground or +12v from pin 3 of switch as long as 86 is opposite of whatever is on 85. So simply put I see no issue with wiring the way you have posted in the picture above.
     
  18. Mar 22, 2015 at 12:10 PM
    #38
    Gkirkham

    Gkirkham [OP] Goose

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    3" lift, aftermarket wheels, aftermarket grill, DERPED hood scoop insert and grill housing, 50" light bar on top of the cab.


    Thanks guys for your help in gonna get it worked up like that diagram and we'll see what happens!
     
  19. Mar 22, 2015 at 12:12 PM
    #39
    Up2NoGood

    Up2NoGood Well-Known Member

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    Cool should work great... Let us know how it goes
     
  20. Mar 22, 2015 at 12:15 PM
    #40
    deeezy

    deeezy Well-Known Member

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    Remember, your missing a wire from pin 3 on your switch in the picture you posted.
     

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