No-cut ABS kill switch

I wanted to do the abs kill switch mod to my truck for on the fly control of the traction babysitters, which this truck is loaded with, but like many others I didn't want to cut the factory harness. I plan on trading my tacoma in for a new gen in a few years so I wanted to avoid cutting the harness and the fear of messin up a brand new $30k truck so I came up with this idea.


I pretty much just put a switch between the fuse socket and fuse for the abs. I used a short piece of wire with a female connector on one end and a male in the other to connect into the fuse socket on one side and to one terminal on the fuse. Then I ran another longer wire from the second post in the fuse socket thru the fire wall and to a switch then back out to the second post in the fuse which completed the circuit. When the switch is turned on anyways.

The only down fall of this way is that you have to cycle the key for the dash lights to go off after you turn the abs off and back on. I haven't tested if the abs is functional after turning it off and back on without cycling the key In theory it should work. the lights stay on because the ECU hasnt ran a check to see that the abs is back on(or at least I think that's why they stay on). If I'm right or not I haven't had a chance to try it yet and I have been wrong a time or two, according to my wife anyways.

Now I know I'm horrible at explaining the process of how I did something so if my directions take you in circles let me know and I'll try to explain better.

EDIT: your abs will not reset and become active again until you cycle the key

 

thats a BIG fuse.... 50Amp i think... NO WAY those wires you are using are rated for that, let alone the switch.

If you are going to do it this way, DO IT PROPER, with proper awg wires and a relay.

But really... do it the "proper" way

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/te...-abs-kill-switch-why-why-not.html#post6254094

or below if you have a TRD OR

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2n...kill-switch-mod-05-offroad-easy-way-pics.html

 

This is exactly how mine is on my current truck and on my last one. Except I used a Toyota rocker/fog light switch. I've put about 70k miles on this setup with zero issues.

 

Sizing wire for a 12 volt direct current system is different than alternating current. Wire size for 50 amps in an AC system would be a #8 (depending on insulation).

50 amp DC is 16 gauge at 3'.

 

Do you have a chart? I've been looking for a wire rating chart for DC.

 

we all have opinions on what is the "proper" way and like i said this is a option for people that dont want to cut into their factory harness. and its a 30amp fuse and 14ga wire so im sure itll be fine. if not then you can say i told you so while im standing next my to burnt up truck.

 

If thats right them im in the clear, its 30 amps and 14ga wire. thanks

 

Here's the best I could get with my phone. It's a screen shot.

 

I would say this is a good guide but this might not work with your state's code nor automotive DC circuitry.

 

This graph is not for 120/240 residential or commercial industrial 277/480 electrical. As I stated, it's for 12 volt dc.

 

thats right on the cusp with 30 amps at 14awg for ~10 ft.

Either way that switch is a radio shack switch, probably cant handle more than an 5 amps.

 

Your disapproval has been dually noted. I feel safe doing it the way i did it.

 

Bump, anyone try this method with success since this thread was made?