DIY Front Brake Pad Change.

[chris4x4]

Originally Posted by jfr02

abs does not matter.i worked at caddillac dealership for 6 years and a independent garage for 3. never once did i ever see or hear of a problem with abs when changing pads.so you would be just fine compressing the piston without opening the bleeder.and as far as having to remove fluid from the resivor,as long as someone didn't ad fluid you will be fine.which brings me to a point DO NOT ADD FLUID if the resivoir is low.if the fluid level is low it means you have a leak or you pads and or shoes need replaced.

You should add "Do this at own risk"

A close friend of mine was a head Toyota mechanic. He showed me brakes that have been screwed up this way. Mind you, as I said, I have done it too, but I may have been lucky. Is saving 10 to 20 mins worth $1200.00?

[parfleet]

Originally Posted by badguybuster

Well, I decided to change my front brake pads today. They were starting to squeal once in a while. I changed to Duralast Gold Ceramic pads ($55 at Auto Zone). They come with everything you will need including grease and spring clips.

This is for informational purposes only, I am NOT responsible if you damage yourself, your vehicle, or anything else. If you are competent, have a professional do it.

Now, with that said you will need. 1-New brake pads 2-Brake Fluid or a recepticle to catch fluid after bleeding (I made my own). 3-Normal tire changing equipement. 4-Flat and hex head screw drivers. 5-Crescent wrench (or other) to open bleeder valve.

Step 1: Set your emergency brake and chock the wheels.
Step 2: Remove your tire (one at a time or all at once it doesn't matter).
Step 3: Observe your caliper and brake pads. Check your rotor for damage.


Step 4: Remove the pins holding the brake pads by taking off the retaining clips in the back of each pin. Be careful with the large retaining pin holding the two pads together. It can fly away if you aren't cautious. You can save your clips to reuse or use new ones.





Step 5: Clean up the caliper some (I painted mine). Open bleeder valve and spread the caliper apart some (I used a wooden dowel to press it open). Be sure to catch the brake fluid other wise you have a mess on your hands. This is what I used.



Step 6: Grease your pads and slide them into place. Make sure the pad with the little metal bar is to the inside. When you replace your pins, ensure that the lower pin goes through the large retaining clip. Make sure you close the bleeder valve.



Step 7: Replace your tires. Refill your brake fluid reservoir to factory specs.

Now, that's it. If you all see that I did something wrong. Please feel free to point it out. After all, this was my first time on a Tacoma. Pretty damn easy.

Greetings From ParFleet in Pensacola, FL.

I replaced my front pads this morning on my 05 Tacoma Crew Cab, Long Bed, SR5. I just wanted you to know that your instructions proved to be extremely important and yes, in your own words, "it was the damn easiest brake job I have done." I didn't know that the PreRunner had 4 caliper pistons (2 inside and 2 outside). Once I removed the pads, I just took the handle from and 8" adjustable wrench and the handle from a 3/8" drive ratchet, wrapped them both in a rag individuallly and pushed in the two inside pistons first and the two outside pistons last. I pushed with the new pads with ease. I then mounted new hardware that came with the pads "AutoZone CMAX". I never did bleed the brakes and and now my Tacoma will stop on a dime. The rotors looked fine.

Thanks again!

[db67fm]

So you were able to push in the pistons without opening the bleeder valve?

[parfleet]

Originally Posted by db67fm

So you were able to push in the pistons without opening the bleeder valve?

Yes I was! Once I removed the clips that secure the caliper pins that go from one side of the caliper to the other that secure the pad in the caliper and then I removed the pads. I pushed the pistons on the inside of the caliper with a rag wrapped around the handle of an adjustable wrench and a socket ratchet handle and then I pushed in the pistons on the outer side of the caliper. New pads went right end and I secured then with the pins I had removed eariler with new "hairpin" clips that came with the new pads and also a new retainer spring that came with the new pads.

Very easy job to do brakes on for sure!

[luk8272]

What kind of mileage are you all seeing with your stock brakes?

[coma09]

By the time you get to replacing pads, it's likely time to flush the brake fluid anyway. ie, new fluid in the master cylinder reservoir, and bleed till you need to add some more (don't bleed it dry).
Re greasing pads ... I put a thin film where the pads' backing plate rubs on the caliper groove. Also clean and re-grease the slider pins. Have had corrosion on 'em more than I'd expect. And .... were talking high temp grease for these spots.
Good job .... just saved yourself a bundle for an easy hour or 2.

[parfleet]

Originally Posted by luk8272

What kind of mileage are you all seeing with your stock brakes?

I got 52000 on the original pads. I called a local toyota Dealership and I was told that as general rule, their shop doesn't replace (do a complete flush) of the brake system. Reason? Brake Issues Will Develop. At least, they is their experience.

Did I bleed my breakes? No, and my brakes work fine. I just pushed to pistons in. There are two inner and two outer pistons on the PreRunner and TRD.

Easiest break job I have ever done.

[RANIERY]

I GOT 70000+ on my first set of brakes

[98tacoma27]

Originally Posted by papabear050

Well, I wouldn't put grease on my brake pads. Did you grease the sides that are contacting the Rotor... scary...

The grease goes on the back of the pads, not the rotor contact surface. It also keeps them from squealing due to excessive brake dust.

[linkfeeney]

Originally Posted by 98tacoma27

The grease goes on the back of the pads, not the rotor contact surface. It also keeps them from squealing due to excessive brake dust.

what kind of grease goes in the back of brake pads?

[Coke]

Thanks for writing up the DIY and the photos. I read it several times and having never before changed my brakes I was a bit confused.

I found this video which shows a demonstration which made it look incredibly easy.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HkKm9ShxY4E

I also found another video which describes in detail about what happens when you compress the piston and one way to do it. It also describes why you shouldn't add brake fluid to the system, etc.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xOkbcAdw0Es

[george3]

Nice find !

Originally Posted by Coke

Thanks for writing up the DIY and the photos. I read it several times and having never before changed my brakes I was a bit confused.

I found this video which shows a demonstration which made it look incredibly easy.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HkKm9ShxY4E

I also found another video which describes in detail about what happens when you compress the piston and one way to do it. It also describes why you shouldn't add brake fluid to the system, etc.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xOkbcAdw0Es

[linkfeeney]

if my rotor is in good condition, do i need to put in new rotor or resurface when putting in new pads? do I also need to bleed the brake when putting new pads in? thanks folks!

[chris4x4]

Originally Posted by linkfeeney

if my rotor is in good condition, do i need to put in new rotor or resurface when putting in new pads? do I also need to bleed the brake when putting new pads in? thanks folks!

Generally, if the rotor is not scored in any way, you should be fine.

[T0y0ta05]

Originally Posted by chris4x4

Generally, if the rotor is not scored in any way, you should be fine.

I always thought it was important to at least have the rotors measured to ensure they are still thick enough to dissipate heat? I'm not sure I would depend on a visual to confrim that aspect. Otherwsie, I tend to agree and have had good luck getting at least two brake pad changes on the same rotor given normal wear/tear. Just my 2 cents.

[xsvtoyz]

Originally Posted by linkfeeney

if my rotor is in good condition, do i need to put in new rotor or resurface when putting in new pads? do I also need to bleed the brake when putting new pads in? thanks folks!

This is an excellent write up just wanted to add a few notes if you don't mind.
This procedure is what most mech's call a pad slap because you are slapping new pads in.
To answer the above question yes a new surface on the rotor greatly speeds up the breakin process and turning the rotors is cheap but if you have no issues such as pulsing or chattering its also a why?. I highly recommend you give a little extra stopping distance for the first week if you do this procedure.
One thing not mentioned and needs to be addressed is the pins. Pull them all the way out and clean them with emery cloth or fine sand paper and lightly grease them before you put them back though(this means a light surface coat NOT covered and dripping). The pins will cause uneven wear if they are not cleaned up of the scuzz.
Also pay very close attention to where the little metal tab is on each pad and use the right one. They are different! Also try to keep the pad surface clean nothing should be on the side that contacts the rotor.
I have never popped the bleeder to do the brake jobs and yes I have done way too many to count. On my personal vehicles I get two large screw drivers and push both sides back at the same time takes about 1 minute because I push slow, no need to force things and I am good to go I do as described in the first post. I understand the way of caution but if you manage with a screw driver to scratch the rotor enough to feel under braking you did something way wrong.(think of this: if you could feel a minor scratch then drilled slotted rotors would be a nightmare).
DO NOT SKIP THE NEXT STEP!
Once you feel you are done make sure you pump the brakes till you feel a solid pedal after each side this helps keep spilled fluid to a minimum and also helps keep you from backing out with no brake pedal. (don't laugh I have seen it done many times and the panic look is priceless).

Be sure to include a rear brake adjust.
That is easy as well:chock the front wheels then lift both rear wheels off the ground and put her in neutral parking brake off
pull the rubber plug in the center of the backing plate and with a medium screw driver ratchet the star wheel up until the brakes start to make a noise then a little more till they just start to drag and the wheel does not go completely around when pushed. put the plug in and repeat for the other side. Note this will also make the e-brake tight again.

Last thing if you do want to use the bleeder screws the correct size is 8mm an adjustable will just cause problems later.

[Veccster]

Great info. I'm only at 15K miles but I look forward to changing to ceramic pads that generate less dust.

Anyway, I always thought most newer vehicles required new rotors with the new pads. I thought the days of cutting rotors was gone. At least that's how it was for our Ford Escape and Mazda Tribute.
Glad to hear that the Toyota rotors have a durable and longer lifespan - maybe the life of the truck?!?!

[BR2008]

I have a 2008 PreRunner short bed double cab with 80,000 miles. Yeah, I know, but it is my office and that's why this is my second, 2nd gen Tacoma. I replaced the front pads and was unaware that you didn't need to remove the cailpers until it was too late and I damaged the face seal (a square cut "o" ring approximately 1/2-inch in diameter). The local Toyota dealer, (Atlanta area) has none in stock and will have to drop ship a complete caliper seal set to me from Cali. I placed a correct sized temporary "o" ring into position to await the arrival of the caliper set but now the pedal goes all the way to the floor and stopping power is minimal. Is there a trick to bleeding the system that has not been mentioned here? I can't let the vehicle sit for 4 days until the parts arrive. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[M2M]

Originally Posted by luk8272

What kind of mileage are you all seeing with your stock brakes?

I am simply amazed at what I'm getting for brake pad life - the big qualifier is that I do a loooooooot of freeway driving in my job -
! just passed 50,500 and my pads are at 75 %
with that said - we did change all gear boxes (including the Transmission) -
my mechanic advised that even though the transmission is sealed and the manual says 100k for the first service, that because of all the freeway driving, I should really change at 50 k -
the front transfer case oil did have some metal shaving in it ?!

[Viet2100]

Originally Posted by M2M

I am simply amazed at what I'm getting for brake pad life - the big qualifier is that I do a loooooooot of freeway driving in my job -
! just passed 50,500 and my pads are at 75 %
with that said - we did change all gear boxes (including the Transmission) -
my mechanic advised that even though the transmission is sealed and the manual says 100k for the first service, that because of all the freeway driving, I should really change at 50 k -
the front transfer case oil did have some metal shaving in it ?!

well you are doing a lot of highway driving, which highway driving = less braking.

I was going to change out my pads two nights ago, then realized the dude at Toyota sold me the wrong pads. The part number on both are the EXACT, but what gives? And basically I know how the entire brake system works now, I had a piston pop out and basically had to rebuild it. It sucked, but now I know.