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Rust Protection

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by deer_pop, Dec 19, 2007.

  1. Dec 19, 2007 at 4:30 PM
    #1
    deer_pop

    deer_pop [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Ontario
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    08 Double Cab TRD 6 Speed Manual Speedway Blue
    None yet
    Once I take delivery of my truck (still hoping before X-mas so I can put a big bow on it to make my neighbors jealous) I was planning on getting it rust protected. I live in Ontario Canada, lots of salt during the winter on the roads. I was thinking either Krown or Rust check. Just curious if many other people wrapped their toy, who they used and why?

    Thanks Dave
    Tacoma is a great Christmas gift eh!!! :D
     
  2. Dec 19, 2007 at 4:46 PM
    #2
    concrete jedi

    concrete jedi Well-Known Member

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    Rochester N.Y
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    Broken and scratched tailgate, cracked rear tail light lens, coffee stain in driver seat.
    I used Ziebart, got a lifetime warranty, $345.00 plus a $65.00 reapplication on the anniversary every year. The guys at the shop really dig my truck so I think they do a better job. :rolleyes:
     
  3. Mar 1, 2008 at 5:49 PM
    #3
    knickerbocker

    knickerbocker Well-Known Member

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    the leading minor of order 1 is not positive definite.
    i'm curious about this also. live in north east, on the coast. rust is a big issue. i heard a lot of people's ideas that cause me to dislike the rubberized undercoatings. they can trap water and enhance corrosion, repairs are harder. etc. most of this comes from a mechanic i worked for in new hampshire, but he was from ontario. we sprayed all our fleet vehicles (about 30, everything from old diesel vw's to dodge vans) with a mixture of 5 parts bar and chain oil, two parts wd-40 and 3 parts or so tranny fluid. that was his ratio and he swore by it. one year though we got a barrel of stuff from his friend in ontario who runs a business making and applying the stuff, but it was of undisclosed composition. anyway, these were both very oily and messy and trapped dirt (but not water), i just didn't like it so much. i'm hoping to find some kind of silicone spray that will dry on with a thin film of protection. won't trap dirt. won't trap water. save for rubber, plastic, moving parts, heat resist to 500 degrees. just reapply a quick spray down once or twice a year. seems perfect to me. i just haven't found the product. if anybody knows of anything, let me know.
     
  4. Mar 2, 2008 at 4:09 AM
    #4
    danusa

    danusa Well-Known Member

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    Walter Birdsong developed Blick Ti years ago for guns and knives.
    It is a two part epoxy finish.
    It would be cheaper to just let it rust.
     
  5. Mar 2, 2008 at 6:39 PM
    #5
    ellsworth

    ellsworth Well-Known Member

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    Buffalo
    Vehicle:
    08' off rd 6 speed
    6 inch Fabtech, st stabilizers, 18x9 DC -1s 305/65/18 bfg at's
    non det 30 weight on all underneath metal....Every season till it drips...
     
  6. Mar 3, 2008 at 7:18 PM
    #6
    deer_pop

    deer_pop [OP] Well-Known Member

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    None yet
    I ended up going to Krown and got the truck sprayed (creeping oil). The guy in Whitby, Ontario did a great job. He had me in with him while he was spraying, showed my all the spots that you have to watch out for etc... I will be back every year. The oil drips a bit, so I put a tarp on the garage floor for a few days. It cost me a $100, so not a lot of money if you plan on keeping the truck.
     
  7. Mar 4, 2008 at 5:58 AM
    #7
    106Tacoma

    106Tacoma Well-Known Member

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    My trucks on its 3rd winter, and the undercarriage and engine still look brand new. Not even the leaf springs have any rust. I take a tub of grease and mix old engine oil in it until its just good enough to brush on, then I take a huge paint brush and brush it everywhere. I even took the spare out and did the support bars and then the rim itself, all the lines, even the floors and up inside and around the bed. I also put lots of WD40 on the aluminum parts like transfer case and trans, because if I didn’t it would pit. Also use WD40 to spray up inside the rockers in every drain hole that’s present. And once or twice a year ill spray the whole bottom of the truck with WD just to soften the grease. I wiped one of my shocks off last year just to see and they didn’t have any rust anywhere. They were brand new. Even the dealer noticed my technique and said it works 100%. I live in Buffalo NY, salt is on the roads from dec- april. And my truck still looks new. I also wax it every time I wash it., and when I wash it I get all the salt off even underneath.
     
  8. Mar 4, 2008 at 6:33 AM
    #8
    ERdept

    ERdept Well-Known Member

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    Being a gun guy, we don't like rust and so some folks on other forums tested WD 40 for rust protection.

    I've seen bare metal panels sprayed with it and other for half a year and exposed to the elements. It did OK, but Break Free CLP is better........

    http://www.thegunzone.com/rust.html
     
  9. Mar 4, 2008 at 6:46 AM
    #9
    106Tacoma

    106Tacoma Well-Known Member

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    Debadged 06 Black Sand Pearl 4x4 Every option.
    Yea WD40 is cheaper, does not last on metal alone for more then 6 months. Grease by far last forever. And after some dirt gets into it its like undercoating. Remember on cars when your working and there is a greasy spot if you whipe it away its clean underneath. Same if you put it on yourself. Black undercoating tends to hold moisture and rot out the metal.
     
  10. Mar 4, 2008 at 7:41 AM
    #10
    Hotdog

    Hotdog My hair is all natural Moderator

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    WD40 is more of a cleaner than a rust inhibitor. I'm sure most of the folks here already know this, but the WD actually stands for water displacement.
     
  11. Mar 4, 2008 at 2:40 PM
    #11
    TimTac

    TimTac Member

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    My dealer offered an "Electronic Corrosion Control" for around $600 IIRC. It has a lifetime guarantee if done within the 1st 2 years...5 year guarantee after that. I think there is some service/check involved periodicly for the guarantee.

    I didn't bite but i'm keeping it in mind for sometime in the next 2 years.

    Maybe someone knows more/has experience with this??
     
  12. Mar 6, 2008 at 3:35 AM
    #12
    danusa

    danusa Well-Known Member

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    Bull.
     
  13. Mar 6, 2008 at 6:52 AM
    #13
    TimTac

    TimTac Member

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    I just Googled it (sym-tech electronic corrosion control). a lot of people seem to share your oppinion.

    I couldn't find anyone with long term experience or if the life time warranty was actually honored.

    I might just go with the Krown rust proofing. i've used it before and it's good if you don't mind the drips for a few days.
     
  14. Mar 30, 2008 at 2:38 PM
    #14
    knickerbocker

    knickerbocker Well-Known Member

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    the leading minor of order 1 is not positive definite.
    we had an electronic corrosion inhibitor on a lumina in new hampshire and it seemed to work well. but i did some research recently and there is too much mixed opinion to tell what's accurate. i opted out for now. at least one method of ECC requires the metal to be covered in moisture for it to work, so it's more for marine applications but they make the unit's for cars anyway. but there are a few other types of methods, i just couldn't find reliable info.
     
  15. Mar 30, 2008 at 2:45 PM
    #15
    knickerbocker

    knickerbocker Well-Known Member

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    the leading minor of order 1 is not positive definite.
    canadians use a lot of oil-based spray-on undercoatings. we got one jug of stuff from ontario that worked well. seems in US it's all rubberized undercoatings which, imo, can do more harm than good unless you really keep on it. now i'm looking into a product called vappro 868 vci, also from ontario, i think. it uses an alcohol solvent, i think, and when it dries it leaves a thin dry-to-tough film that's supposed to protect against salt corrosion for up to 24 mos. they made if for off-shore and marine apps, but works for cars and equipment, too. i just don't want my whole truck to be greasy or oily all the time. maybe i'm just anal, i don't know. plus i have bad memories of spraying the oil, car after car after car. it's messy.
     
  16. Mar 30, 2008 at 5:57 PM
    #16
    TimTac

    TimTac Member

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    Yeah, the cons of Krown rustproopfing are the mess and the reapplication every 12 months.
    I've never heard of Vappro but it sounds like it'd be worth checking out.
     
  17. Mar 30, 2008 at 6:23 PM
    #17
    knickerbocker

    knickerbocker Well-Known Member

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    the leading minor of order 1 is not positive definite.
    yeah, i'll leave a post when i get more info, and again if i go for it!
     
  18. Mar 31, 2008 at 3:54 PM
    #18
    knickerbocker

    knickerbocker Well-Known Member

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    the leading minor of order 1 is not positive definite.
    so vappro got back to me with some more info. they're in ontario, so anyone close may be able to find it locally. it's a bit spendy (more than a tub of grease and old oil) but cleaner, and cheaper than zbarts or some such thing. here's what he says (sorry it's long, i decided to stick the whole thing up since this is what this thread is about anyway):

    It is not a problem for you to buy from us directly. Following are some answers to your questions:

    One 20L Pail will coat about 6-8 mid size cars. This include the vehicle underbody, inside door panels, under the hoods and trunks. Spraying is the best method of application in order to get best coverage and protection of recess areas.

    Use a Greco or Devill Bliss Spray Gun for the application. Use about 45-55lb of compressed air when spraying. It is necessary to dilute Vappro 868 with 10% to 15% of mineral spirit or any diluant in order to achieve the right sprayability viscosity for the Greco or Devil Bliss Spray Gun. Allow about 8"-10" space between the Spray Gun and the metal surface when spraying.

    Spray product on vehicle chaisis, frames, underbody parts. It is not necessary to spray on the exhaust pipes, mufflers or catalytic converters
    because when the parts get hot it will melt the coating away. Do not
    worry about any overspray coating getting on these engine parts because it will melt awat once it becomes hot.

    If any coating gets on the paint job, simply apply some mineral sprirt on a piece of rag and wipe it off. It is best to place a piece of card board over the windshield to prevent coating getting on it.

    The cost of Vappro 868 is $215.00 per pail of 20 Litre. The product has a 3 year shelf life. However, if it is kept in room temperature, it can be used indefinitely. If the product starts to cake up after an extended period of time of storage, simply put the pail in tub of very hot water and stir till it liquifies. You may need to add some minerial spirit in order for it to liquify.

    Please note that Vappro 868 is a Military Grade Corrosion Inhibitor and is currently being used by a wide range of industries and I am confident that you will be impressed with its performance. Please let me know how many pails you need and you may make this purchase with your VISA Card. If you need further information please contact me.

    Regards,


    James Cheng
    Magna Chemical Canada Inc.
    Box 534, 15 Bowman Ave
    Matheson ON P0K 1N0
    Canada
    Tel: 1-705-273-3353
    Fax: 1-705-273-3352
     
  19. Nov 13, 2012 at 4:02 PM
    #19
    jodjr

    jodjr Well-Known Member

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  20. Nov 13, 2012 at 4:19 PM
    #20
    griffin407c

    griffin407c Well-Known Member

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    OME 885s on Bilstein 5100s set at 0 with 1/2" plate spacers. OME Dakars with Bilstein 5100 Extended Length Shocks. 16" Pro Comp 7032 wheels wrapped with 285/75-16 Duratracs
    Anyone think about using Amsoil Heavy Duty Metal Protector? My father, being an automotive mechanic that owns his own shop, says I should try Amsoil HD MP. Him and I have been talking about undercoating for several months now. My '05, when I sold it in '11 looked like a 20 year old, rusted out vehicle underneath because of the massive amounts of salt NY uses.... even after weekly routine washes while the truck was on a lift, in a heated garage for several hours. I don't want this to happen again.
     

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