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DIY - How to Install a ToyTec Diff Drop (Pics)

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Old 09-26-2009, 08:16 PM   #1
Neubs [OP] Neubs is offline
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Thumbs up DIY - How to Install a ToyTec Diff Drop (Pics)

Hello Everyone,

Today I installed a ToyTec diff drop on my 06 Tacoma and figured I would take a few pics for my brothers at TW. It is a rather simple and easy process that anyone with a few simple tools can complete. Hope you find it useful.

What you Need:
- ToyTec Diff Drop Kit: Part Number TAC-DR-05
- 22mm Socket (for the diff support bolts)
- 19 mm Socket (for the new grade 8 bolts)
- 12 mm socket (for the skid plate bolts)
- Adjustable wrench
- 1/2" socket wrench
- 3/8" socket wrench
- 3/8" socket extension
- Torque wrench
- Anti-Seize Lube (to protect the bolts from cross threading)
- Demel Tool
- Spray Paint

Step 1: It always helps to read the instructions...


Step 2: Remove the front skid plate using the 12mm socket and 3/8" wrench.


Step 3: Remove the second skid plate using the same 12mm socket.


Step 4: Find the differential support bolts.


Step 5: Support the diff with an old rusty jack barrowed from a friend.


Step 6: Loosen (do NOT remove) the diff support bolts with 22mm socket and the 1/2" socket wrench.


Step 6.5: Remove the diff support bolt on one side while leaving the other bolt loose but in place.


Step 7: Install the provided diff support spacer and grade 8 hardware. (You will need and adjustable wrench to lock the nut in place while tightening from the bottom with a 19mm socket and the 1/2" socket wrench). Don't forget to re-use the large factory washer.


Step 7.5: Complete the other side.


Step 8: Torque the new bolts to factory specs. (I torqued them to 70 foot pounts).


Step 9: Elongate the front holes in the rear skid plate (for better fittment).


Step 10: Cut off the two tabs on rear skid plate to assist with re-installation. (Mine contacted the diff support so I used a Dremel tool and a cut off wheel).


Step 10.5: The tabs are cut.


Step 11: Trim about 2 inches off the driver's side front edge of rear skid plate.


Step 12: Reinstall rear skid plate. (Note the 2" cut off the upper edge of the skid plate)


Step 12.5: You can see the cut tabs...


Step 13: Install the provided skid plate spacers in the back bolts of the front skid plate.


Step 13.5:Tighten front skid bolts, note the skid spacers.


Step 14: Torque skid plate bolts to factory spec. (I torqued them to 25 foot pounds).


Step 15: Enjoy


CV Joint - Before


CV Joint - After


This thread is for informational purposes only.
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Old 09-26-2009, 09:32 PM   #3
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Holy rust batman!

Nice write up though.... but that rust bothers me.... o.0
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Old 09-26-2009, 09:56 PM   #4
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Well here is a dumb ass question...

So when you drop the diff to decrease the angle on the CV joints, do you increase the angle on the driveshaft?

Great write-up!
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Old 09-26-2009, 09:58 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aww1970 View Post
So when you drop the diff to decrease the angle on the CV joints, do you increase the angle on the driveshaft?

Great write-up!
Being as the diff drop only lowers the front of the diff 1", that eqates to a 1/2" drop at the axel. SO....Only a degree or two. Not a huge difference. It DOES change the angle of the DS going into the diff about 2* also. Its better to lift firts, THEN see if you have vibes, and install the diff drop.
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Old 09-26-2009, 10:02 PM   #6
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Lower Diff

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kyouto42 View Post
Holy rust batman!

Nice write up though.... but that rust bothers me.... o.0
lol, I was thinking the same thing. Must be because of his location (Maryland) and all of the snow and road salt or something.

Nice write up though, and nice pictures and information.
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Old 09-26-2009, 10:28 PM   #7
Neubs [OP] Neubs is offline
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Thanks for the kind words guys. Hope someone finds it useful. I don't like the rust either but here in MD they like to saturate the roads with salt and other chemicals at the first hint of snow. As you can see I still have some mud under my truck from the last time I went wheeling (the lighter brown almost pinkish red spots). I swear Western MD clay is impossible to get off your truck. I spent HOURS cleaning it and there is still spots of mud here and there.

Thanks for the added information Chris.
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Old 09-27-2009, 05:54 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Neubs View Post
Thanks for the kind words guys. Hope someone finds it useful. I don't like the rust either but here in MD they like to saturate the roads with salt and other chemicals at the first hint of snow. As you can see I still have some mud under my truck from the last time I went wheeling (the lighter brown almost pinkish red spots). I swear Western MD clay is impossible to get off your truck. I spent HOURS cleaning it and there is still spots of mud here and there.

Thanks for the added information Chris.
Thanks for the great write up!
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Old 04-08-2010, 11:26 AM   #11
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does anyone know if I use the same toyota nuts on the new grade 8 bolts? I know I use the washers.

quick answer please, I'm about to do this. thanks


Edit: never-mind I found my nuts
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Old 04-09-2010, 03:18 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oskie_78 View Post
never-mind I found my nuts
I just may need this one in my sig

To the OP, that is a nice writeup. I just ordered mine and will be installing it soon. So thanks. I think this will eliminate the front diff output bearing vibe since the front is sitting up 1" higher right now with the 5100's set at .85. Installing the drop should bring things back to stock angles thus eliminating the vibe.
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Old 06-28-2010, 06:08 PM   #13
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Thanks Neubs,

Good write up and pics! It's been many years since I worked on my own vehicles, so this was a big confidence builder.

Here's a few differences that I noticed on my 2007 4x4 TRD DblCab:

1-The "before" angles of the cv joints were not that severe on my truck. My 5100's are set at 1.75". I almost didn't do the install because the driver side (which I hear is shorter and more problematic) did not appear to need any correction. I did it anyways as now I am considering changing the 5100 front settings to 2.5"

2-The steel skidplate and alum TRD skidplate re-installed with no trimming necessary.

3-The driver side of the differential mount was a little reluctant to drop as there was a small bit of interference from the contour of a heavy gauge steel bracket. I left everything loose and when I dropped the jack it sort of muscled it's way clear. Everything seems cool upon tightening. I am keeping my fingers crossed that the slight shift of 3/16" or so did not futz up some critical angle in some other component.

Thanks again!

RC
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Old 07-16-2010, 04:06 AM   #14
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Was just reading thru this..cause I'm gonna do it ( 06 LB Taco) but noticed you have 2 skid plates ( front and rear)....am I missing something cause I only have one

any thoughts ??
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Old 07-17-2010, 06:27 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MAtrdguy View Post
Was just reading thru this..cause I'm gonna do it ( 06 LB Taco) but noticed you have 2 skid plates ( front and rear)....am I missing something cause I only have one

any thoughts ??
TRD Off Road has more skid plates underneath (transfer case, fuel tank, etc).
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Old 08-13-2010, 05:23 PM   #16
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How much lift do you have in the front end? There is quite a bit of difference in the angle before and after the install. Nice write up.
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Old 08-23-2010, 02:04 PM   #17
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Wow you may that WAY more difficult than it had to be. Appreciate the effort though.
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Old 09-02-2010, 10:53 AM   #18
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Where did you guys purchase the Dif Drop Kit?
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Old 09-03-2010, 07:16 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RePHASE View Post
Where did you guys purchase the Dif Drop Kit?
Toytec. They're a TW approved vendor:
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/toytec-lifts/
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Old 09-04-2010, 07:05 AM   #20
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I did a drop kit on mine and bought from Fat Bob's Garage and was not satified with the kit as the spacers to re-install the front skid plate were to short had to half ass some washers.
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