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DIY: Full Flush for Automatic Transmission

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Old 04-05-2010, 08:31 PM   #41
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This is not a good idea to do. Youre fluid level can be way off with only a few minutes / degrees difference and cause major shifting and or slippage issues. If you only have 45 or 50 thousand miles and you wreck your trans its on you. If you have the dealer do it its on them. Not trying to come off as being rude but with the dollar savings comes great liabilities. PS. If you had looked at your WS fluid it would have looked darker at just 5k miles. Just because WS fluid looks discolored does not mean that it is time to change it.
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Old 04-05-2010, 09:01 PM   #42
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If you do it correctly, I don't see what you have to worry about. If you're under 5-year/60k it should be covered under the powertrain warranty if you're really paranoid, but if you practice getting it into temp check mode and double check it in the end you'll be fine.
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Old 04-06-2010, 06:38 AM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motox_315 View Post
This is not a good idea to do. Youre fluid level can be way off with only a few minutes / degrees difference and cause major shifting and or slippage issues. If you only have 45 or 50 thousand miles and you wreck your trans its on you. If you have the dealer do it its on them. Not trying to come off as being rude but with the dollar savings comes great liabilities. PS. If you had looked at your WS fluid it would have looked darker at just 5k miles. Just because WS fluid looks discolored does not mean that it is time to change it.
Many people have reported that their fluid was low from the factory, so I'm pretty sure the level is not quite as critical as you think. VOAs performed on the WS fluid show it to be a well made fluid, but nothing special, which means that it probably needs to be changed before the 100k mark. In fact someone on this board mentioned that Toyota changed the factory recommended change interval from 100k down to 60k, although I've never seen the official paperwork on that.

IDK what happened, but Mountain Lion was going to send in a WS sample to be tested. Maybe he'll get around to that someday and we will see how well this stuff help up. I'd be glad to pitch in to help cover the cost.
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Old 04-06-2010, 11:27 AM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motox_315 View Post
This is not a good idea to do. Youre fluid level can be way off with only a few minutes / degrees difference and cause major shifting and or slippage issues. If you only have 45 or 50 thousand miles and you wreck your trans its on you.
The same argument could be made for changing the oil (you mess up, you pay for it).

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Originally Posted by motox_315 View Post
If you have the dealer do it its on them. Not trying to come off as being rude but with the dollar savings comes great liabilities.
With any procedure there is risk. But this is basic fluid change, not rocket science. And when we do our maintenance we have the peace of mind knowing it was done correctly.

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Originally Posted by motox_315 View Post
PS. If you had looked at your WS fluid it would have looked darker at just 5k miles. Just because WS fluid looks discolored does not mean that it is time to change it.
Perhaps your right. But look at Krookz tranny fluid at ~65,000 miles!





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Originally Posted by nuckinfuts View Post
If you do it correctly, I don't see what you have to worry about. If you're under 5-year/60k it should be covered under the powertrain warranty if you're really paranoid, but if you practice getting it into temp check mode and double check it in the end you'll be fine.
That is a terrific idea! Practice getting the truck into temp check mode. Thank you for that!
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Old 04-07-2010, 07:14 PM   #45
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When we do it at the dealer we have a scan tool that tells us the actual temp not just that it was within range when you started. You are going to do what you want anyways but I wont be changing my fluid with out our techstream.
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Old 04-07-2010, 08:03 PM   #46
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Alright, but you're throwing away ~$150 more to know 100% you're at 115 deg F with the scan tool than to know 100% that you're between 115 deg F and 130 deg F. If you check the level right when the light stays on you're right at 115 deg F (+/- 1 or 2 deg F I guess if you're really anal). What's the point? Both procedures are listed in the Toyota FSM, and they both are reading from the same sensor.

http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/05+/data/...a/02800210.pdf

Also, when you do it yourself you figure out how to do it, which means you can check it a few times over a couple days to be sure you (or the dealer if you dropped the $$) didn't put the wrong amount in or overlook running it through the gears before checking. Practice the temp check procedure a couple times and you'll have it figured out.

I'm just sayin, I don't see the point of scaring people out of doing their own maintenance just because Toyota made it a little bit of a pain in the ass. To each his own, but maintenance really isn't rocket science and it just takes a bit of research and practice to be confident you're doing it correctly.
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Old 04-07-2010, 10:28 PM   #47
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serious! people think the dealer will do it right!
the factory had overfill my tranny from day one!

i accidently drained at LEAST half a quart out of my tranny and it was still over filled when i took it into the dealership. They also refilled it because i had to get the seal changed... i'm praying they didnt over fill again. I will be doing this change soon.
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Old 04-07-2010, 10:36 PM   #48
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So how much is this going to cost me in items that I need to buy? Fluid and shit?
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Old 04-14-2010, 09:54 PM   #49
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The ATF WS is about $8/qt at the dealer, sounds like you need about 13-14 qts. That'll set you back around $120. You can get a cheap fluid pump, I recommend one like this:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=66418

It pumps a qt in 4-5 pumps, much faster than the bottleneck pumps. So you're around $120-130 for parts. Add another few bucks for a six pack and you're set.
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Old 05-24-2010, 02:14 PM   #50
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why drain cold?

Hi,

Why drain it cold (86*F)? Is it just a matter of not burning oneself on the cad converter or radiator? Seems you'd get a better drain when its hot.

Thanks,

Josh

PS: Will be doing this on a 1996 2.7L 4WD Tacoma, no tow package. I assume its all the same, but to fill from the dip stick?
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Old 09-06-2010, 06:03 PM   #51
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Quick question: Is there a filter in the bottom of that transmission pan that needs to be changed in addition to this write up?
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Old 09-06-2010, 11:20 PM   #52
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where the diy for the 2.7
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Old 09-24-2010, 07:22 PM   #53
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Just did mine and it went great. A million thanks to mountain lion for superb write up. I used Amsoil atl. I did this same
basic techniqe on my T100 several years ago and am a huge fan of syn ATF. I'm confident I put back same amt of fluid with a 1/4 to 1/2 qt more so I'll do level check tomorrow. I just bought my truck 6 mos ago with 98k and now has 107k and fluid had not been changed at 90k. Looked pretty nasty
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Old 09-24-2010, 11:30 PM   #54
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Got mine changed at the dealer some time back. I think it cost me $260 or something like that. They did the full flush -- on the receipt it listed 16qts. Tech said they flush a few extra through.

As far as the interval is concerned. IMO changing it every 60k is a good idea. If you do any towing or any other activity like crawling over rocks in D you run the risk of hitting high temps. Any oil synth or not will get destroyed if it is over heated for enough time whether it's at 2000 miles or 60k miles. Be sure you know how not to increase your chances of over heating the oil and you'll be fine.

I say this because I replaced my oil on a Z71 after 23 k and it was as dark as used motor oil. I had been 4wheeling and did it all in D. It being my first auto I did not know how to properly use 4x4 with an auto. Luckly I am Anal about maintenance and I did a flush at 23k. And yes color does not indicate the condition of the oil but the smell was unmistakable.
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Old 09-25-2010, 06:32 AM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Peru View Post
Got mine changed at the dealer some time back. I think it cost me $260 or something like that. They did the full flush -- on the receipt it listed 16qts. Tech said they flush a few extra through.

As far as the interval is concerned. IMO changing it every 60k is a good idea. If you do any towing or any other activity like crawling over rocks in D you run the risk of hitting high temps. Any oil synth or not will get destroyed if it is over heated for enough time whether it's at 2000 miles or 60k miles. Be sure you know how not to increase your chances of over heating the oil and you'll be fine.

I say this because I replaced my oil on a Z71 after 23 k and it was as dark as used motor oil. I had been 4wheeling and did it all in D. It being my first auto I did not know how to properly use 4x4 with an auto. Luckly I am Anal about maintenance and I did a flush at 23k. And yes color does not indicate the condition of the oil but the smell was unmistakable.
Oh man, I know what ya mean. My T100 just absolutely fried atf and the stuff smelled and looked like rotten brown gravy when you drained it, by the synthetic lasted soooooo much longer and no slipping or AT heat idiot line coming on. My trucks do a little lite off-roading, but my T100 hauls heaping loads of firewood throughout the winter so some pretty tuff duty there.
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Old 09-30-2010, 10:39 AM   #56
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Hello to everyone, newbie here. want to do tranny flush, and I saw someone ask if there is a filter that should be replaced when doin the flush, does anyone have this answer?
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Old 09-30-2010, 10:55 AM   #57
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Quote:
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Hello to everyone, newbie here. want to do tranny flush, and I saw someone ask if there is a filter that should be replaced when doin the flush, does anyone have this answer?
there is filter in there but nobody knows if and when it should be replaced. On older cars those filters where done every 30K
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd...ims-never.html
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Old 10-01-2010, 08:29 AM   #58
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Quote:
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Hello to everyone, newbie here. want to do tranny flush, and I saw someone ask if there is a filter that should be replaced when doin the flush, does anyone have this answer?
When I flushed mine last week I went ahead and dropped the pan and unbolted the filter screen for inspection. The unit looks like a thin metal container with inlet and outlet and has a really fine mesh screen/ filter/membrane. Mine appeared very clean (107k) looking down into the opening so I just slapped it back in. I contemplated flushing some solvent through it but I was unsure of the material that the screen/membrane was composed of and didn't want to harm anything. The pan had the typical black slime coating as well as the magnets so I wiped everything down good and put it back together.
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Old 10-04-2010, 09:05 AM   #59
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A/T oil temp light question

I did this with my '06 tacoma prerunner 2wd a couple weeks ago and it went well, my A/T oil temp light does NOT come on when I put the key in, but does flash for 2 seconds, go out, come on, etc doing the Temperature monitoring wire jump. I found it curious though that from a cold start in the morning at 68 degrees, my truck took 14 minutes to go from 68 degrees to approx 115 (light comes on solid) but then did not start flashing even after waiting 15 more minutes. Possibly the ambient temp was helping keep it below 130ish, or maybe the oem tow pkg with atf cooler keeps the fluid below 130? I got to work today and put back into temp check mode and the a/t light kept flashing to show it was in the too hot to check range, which sounds like it works fine, just never gets hot enough without driving?

2nd question. I tried this on my wife's '05 4Runner V6 (same WS system, wire board jump, etc changed tranny fluid yesterday - drain and refill) and had a question. When starting her car this morning (68 degrees) and putting into temperature check mode, her A/T oil light came on after only 2 minutes. I quickly ran to open the overflow plug and nothing came out, could feel the fluid inside was cold. Put the bolt back in and waited. Didn't time it, but approximately 15 minutes later the A/T light began flashing. I re-opened the overflow and got almost 12 ozs out which made me feel good as I thought I measured putting 12 ozs more than I drained out last nite. Is there possibly a different coding/flashing output for the 4Runner? I posted this on the 4runner forums with no replies yet and figured I'd post here as there is quite a bit of knowledge on this forum.

Couple notes, yes, I did the A/T temp procedure right, did it many times, same results and works correct on my Tacoma. All 4runner info I read says it should work the same. Confident I filled with the same amount removed, + 12 oz extra that came back out the over flow. Any thoughts?
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Old 10-04-2010, 09:51 PM   #60
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