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My truck looks pissed!!!

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Old 03-20-2008, 11:52 AM   #41
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Originally Posted by tacomaman06 View Post
truck looks good couch!!! so......when the hell are gonna get an exhaust???
Probably never will. I dont care about making it louder. if i ever get exhaust it will be after i pay it off and it will be part of a whole airflow upgrade (headers, intake, and exhaust). but i wont do exhaust unless i do everything.

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Originally Posted by mjp2 View Post
My build is all smoke and mirrors. At least your truck runs!
thats true, at this very moment my truck woudl completely dominate you're offroad Can you drive yours at all right now?

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Originally Posted by 007Tacoma View Post
I think it looks damn good just the way you got it, but I can't wait to see it with the rims on it.
Thanks Mark, i cant wait for the rims either
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Old 03-20-2008, 11:58 AM   #42
I'm just sayin'...
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Originally Posted by ndcouch View Post
thats true, at this very moment my truck woudl completely dominate you're offroad Can you drive yours at all right now?
Nope. I don't even have a gas tank yet. The poor thing hasn't been started since September of last year!

I have been driving around in a 1995 Honda Civic that I picked up for $500. I'd put that up against your truck simply because I have the "I don't care" factor going for me!
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Old 03-20-2008, 12:32 PM   #43
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Originally Posted by mjp2 View Post
Nope. I don't even have a gas tank yet. The poor thing hasn't been started since September of last year!

I have been driving around in a 1995 Honda Civic that I picked up for $500. I'd put that up against your truck simply because I have the "I don't care" factor going for me!

It's a Civic.... Who would really care anyway?
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Old 03-20-2008, 01:08 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mjp2 View Post
Nope. I don't even have a gas tank yet. The poor thing hasn't been started since September of last year!

I have been driving around in a 1995 Honda Civic that I picked up for $500. I'd put that up against your truck simply because I have the "I don't care" factor going for me!
unfortunatley for me i have that same mentality. i dont think i need to remind you of how i got my truck stuck the night after buying it or how i recklessly slammed it into a tree.... not to mention all the other random scrathes all over it
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Old 03-21-2008, 10:52 PM   #45
My other ride weighs 200 tons
4x4x4trd is just really nice4x4x4trd is just really nice4x4x4trd is just really nice4x4x4trd is just really nice
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ndcouch View Post
. Mine are a little stiff but tahts because on the higher you raise them the more compressed the coils are so the harsher the ride, but even on their highest setting the ride is fine. At their lowest setting, .85 inches, you're ride would be greatly improved. and then later on if you get the tsb or lift the rear at all, you can always re-adjust the front shocks to 1.75 or 2.5. so like i said, if you dont mind the 200 bucks the 5100's are great and give you more options down the road without having to buy a bigger lift or more spacers.
I'm not following the more compressed and harsher ride part? I'm looking at pictures, but it seems you get the lift by moving the shock body down by where the ring is set in relation to the coil. But the bottom of the coil to the top attachment point shouldn't change, as in compression of the coil, should it? I mean the piston or movement part of the shock is between the collar on the shock body and the upper attachment point and the coil length shouldn't change as I see it. If I'm looking at this wrong it's just my company tonight, Mr. Jim Beam. Later
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Old 03-22-2008, 06:34 PM   #46
My other ride weighs 200 tons
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ndcouch View Post
you'll be really happy with the ride, especially if you dont max out the shock. one piece of advice, get all 4 at once. i just got the front, and now i wish i got rear shocks too (the rears are not adjustable, they only come in stock length). the dampening effect of the 5100's is great and i can tell a difference when my front end goes over a speed bump and then the back end. i'll put them on the back eventually but it would have been cheaper and easier to do them all at once
Thanks for spending my money too. I ordered all four from Down South for $259 to the door. I don't know if I'll try this install myself as I'll need an alignment afterwards anyway. I'm guessing that you used your stock coils in this setup with the 5100's? Thanks and later.
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Old 03-24-2008, 08:26 AM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4x4x4trd View Post
I'm not following the more compressed and harsher ride part? I'm looking at pictures, but it seems you get the lift by moving the shock body down by where the ring is set in relation to the coil. But the bottom of the coil to the top attachment point shouldn't change, as in compression of the coil, should it? I mean the piston or movement part of the shock is between the collar on the shock body and the upper attachment point and the coil length shouldn't change as I see it. If I'm looking at this wrong it's just my company tonight, Mr. Jim Beam. Later
Quote:
Originally Posted by 4x4x4trd View Post
Thanks for spending my money too. I ordered all four from Down South for $259 to the door. I don't know if I'll try this install myself as I'll need an alignment afterwards anyway. I'm guessing that you used your stock coils in this setup with the 5100's? Thanks and later.
Yes i did use stock coils. Let me explain the compressed spring since i didnt understood how it worked until i actually started playing in the wheel well. There are 4 grooves pre-cut into the shock with an aluminum c-ring that you can move up and down the shock to adjust the height. At STOCK height, that c-ring is closest to the bottom of the shock. the coil seat plate then simply slided down the shock and rests on teh c-ring, and that plate is where the bottom of the spring rests. if you want to go higher, you move the c-ring UP the shock. when you do this there is less room for the coil to extend. Every time you move the c-ring, and seat plate up, you are decreasing the amount of space that your coil can occupy, therefore making it more tightly coiled and more "loaded". its kind of hard to explain while typing. it would be much easier if i could draw this out. But to summarize, to increase height, you move teh coil seat UP the shock. every time you do that you are compressing the space where the coil sits. Make sense at all? Like i said, i didnt understand how this works until i started playing with it myself. although i didnt install the shocks myself. i started to (i actually spent 4 hours inside my wheel well trying to figure out how to do it without the right tools) but ended up taking it to a local shop to have it put in. even though i didnt do it myself, i had plenty of time to get aquainted with how everything works.
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Old 08-10-2008, 01:27 PM   #48
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Old 08-10-2008, 01:30 PM   #49
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Old 08-10-2008, 01:33 PM   #50
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I just popped a bit of a chubster, I think .
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Old 08-10-2008, 01:37 PM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nd View Post
Anyway, as you can tell there is still plenty of room in the wheel wells for 33's, but the next size up is also wider, and that is the biggest tire i can fit on my rim without rubbing the A-arm.

so stick a fricking crow bar in that vault you call a billfold and pry out the dollars it takes to buy some good ones...
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Old 08-10-2008, 02:57 PM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timmer View Post
so stick a fricking crow bar in that vault you call a billfold and pry out the dollars it takes to buy some good ones...
lol,30 days on the wagon isn't enough to cover t/c uca's. How ever,60 or 90 days would.
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Old 08-10-2008, 03:27 PM   #53
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Originally Posted by WilsonTheDog View Post
A/T tires definitely give it a "meaner" look, for sure. I got Firestone Destination A/T's 265/75/16 put on Saturday and I've had like 5 people mention it where I work. Definitely a more aggressive look and I don't hate my steelies as much as I did (yeah I do).

I'm debating the 5100's or going with a mild spacer lift (.75") since I have not done the TSB. I know that the 5100's are the BEST way to go but I just don't know what I'm going to do yet.
Remember, even if you don't want or need to raise the front of your Taco up the full 2.5 you don't have to. Heck, you can keep the stock setting if you really want to, but what I like is you get a much better overall shock/strut then OEM (Bils). These are a bit stiffer, but they really help reduce nose dive during braking and body roll when hitting thos off ramps . I had a set of 5100s on my F150 FX4 and noticed a big differance over the crappy OEM ones. So I looked at it like killing two birds with one stone. Raised my front a couple of inches and recieved a better ride overall compared to the OEM shocks. Food for thought brother.
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Old 08-10-2008, 04:46 PM   #54
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Old 08-10-2008, 08:05 PM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jumpmaster View Post
Remember, even if you don't want or need to raise the front of your Taco up the full 2.5 you don't have to. Heck, you can keep the stock setting if you really want to, but what I like is you get a much better overall shock/strut then OEM (Bils). These are a bit stiffer, but they really help reduce nose dive during braking and body roll when hitting thos off ramps . I had a set of 5100s on my F150 FX4 and noticed a big differance over the crappy OEM ones. So I looked at it like killing two birds with one stone. Raised my front a couple of inches and recieved a better ride overall compared to the OEM shocks. Food for thought brother.
Thanks for the help but I'm way ahead of the game compared to 5 months ago when I posted that.
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Old 08-10-2008, 08:51 PM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4x4x4trd View Post
Just wondered what the TSB raised the back of your truck. Mine was only about .75" and I figured the middle setting on the 5100's at 1.75" would be just right. Later
That's where mine are set.....looks just right. Also gotta remember your rear may settle some time after getting the TSB done.
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