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Fan speed switch not working.

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Old 10-30-2010, 09:41 AM   #21
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How much are the resistors?
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Old 11-06-2010, 06:34 AM   #22
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Cost

I just checked with AutoZone. $51.94 for 2010 2.7L
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Old 11-12-2010, 10:26 AM   #23
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Cabin Air filter could be a causal factor...

First of all - thanks for making this a "sticky". An excellent thread - resource.

I have to say I was surprised to find that Toyota is still using the same technology to change the speed of the blower motor that is used on my wife's '68 Camaro SS. But, it's cheap and works, so I guess it lives on through the ages.

I had the same symptoms on my 2007 Taco that others have had - fan worked only on high speed. So, using the steps in this thread, traced it to a bad (over-heated and oxidized) connector. Disassembled the connector, cleaned it, applied a dab of dielectric grease, and everything works again. But it's obvious that the connector gets waaaay too hot.

It dawned on me that the air-flow over the resistor comes immediately after the blower - and thus after the cabin air filter. And any restriction caused by partial clogging of the air filter is going to significantly reduce the amount of air being blown over the resistor to cool it. That could be the reason Toyota recommends changing the cabin air filter every 25,000 miles - which is twice as often as their other models. My guess is the air flow calculations that went into the design didn't allow for a partially clogged filter - or maybe even a filter at all. And decreasing the time between changes was their band-aid fix. But that's just speculation...

So, if you're burning-up resistors or over-heating the connector, check your cabin air filter. It could be causing at least some of the problem.

That and an obviously poor design...

Melsman
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Old 11-14-2010, 06:03 PM   #24
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the blower in my 08 is starting to make a noise when placed in the low position. I just changed my cabin air filter. Could it be the resistor?
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Old 11-15-2010, 04:46 AM   #25
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I had the same thing happen to mine. It was an annoying electrical buzz or mechanical squeal that increased with the fan level until the fan speed was moved to med-high or high.
I unplugged the electrical connection to the blower took the three screws out that hold the blower motor in place and removed it.
Take the two screws off of the metal motor cover itself making sure to keep the rubber pieces in their place on the blower side as you take the cap off. It is important that you keep the brush wires, thick copper from touching any part of the case when you re-assemble. You'll blow 50 amp fuses and fry your blower motor resistor.
With the motor cap off of the motor set the blower assembly with the motor aside.

Look at the metal cap. It will have a brass bushing in it that holds the motor shaft from the piece you just set aside.

Put a small film of petroleum jelly or spray WD-40 (recommended) on the bushing. A small amount if using petroleum jelly not globs. Just A film!

Re-install onto the motor/blower assembly and ensure that there is no metal contact with the copper brush wires to the cap you are re-installing. After the motor cap is tight ensure that the blower spins freely for a few seconds when you try to spin the blower by hand. If it hangs up or does not spin freely you did not use just a film of petroleum jelly. That's why I recommend the WD-40.

Once it spins freely for a few seconds put it back into the vehicle and re-install the three screws and the electrical connector.

Squeal should be gone.
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Old 11-24-2010, 01:05 PM   #26
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mine too if i wiggle the harness on the passenger floorboard under the dash- way up under the dash- it will turn on so i can only get the first three settings to work when i have a passenger to wiggle the wires
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Old 11-24-2010, 04:36 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Headcase View Post
I had the same thing happen to mine. It was an annoying electrical buzz or mechanical squeal that increased with the fan level until the fan speed was moved to med-high or high.
I unplugged the electrical connection to the blower took the three screws out that hold the blower motor in place and removed it.
Take the two screws off of the metal motor cover itself making sure to keep the rubber pieces in their place on the blower side as you take the cap off. It is important that you keep the brush wires, thick copper from touching any part of the case when you re-assemble. You'll blow 50 amp fuses and fry your blower motor resistor.
With the motor cap off of the motor set the blower assembly with the motor aside.

Look at the metal cap. It will have a brass bushing in it that holds the motor shaft from the piece you just set aside.

Put a small film of petroleum jelly or spray WD-40 (recommended) on the bushing. A small amount if using petroleum jelly not globs. Just A film!

Re-install onto the motor/blower assembly and ensure that there is no metal contact with the copper brush wires to the cap you are re-installing. After the motor cap is tight ensure that the blower spins freely for a few seconds when you try to spin the blower by hand. If it hangs up or does not spin freely you did not use just a film of petroleum jelly. That's why I recommend the WD-40.

Once it spins freely for a few seconds put it back into the vehicle and re-install the three screws and the electrical connector.

Squeal should be gone.
I did this and haven't had any problems since. Thank you so much that electrical buzz was driving me crazy.
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Old 12-29-2010, 04:33 PM   #28
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I found the Resistor on Amazon for 22$ w/free shipping. It arrived and is a Toyota OEM part.
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Old 01-02-2011, 08:44 AM   #29
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Don't forget to replace the cabin air filter located behind the glove box. When this filter gets clogged up it puts a bigger amp load on the fan motor which in turn burns out this resistor. Recommend at least once a year.
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Old 01-06-2011, 08:04 PM   #30
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Mine has been doing the same thing. Drove 30 miles to the stealership and they didnt have it in stock, so I had to drive back up there today and get it, $32. Put it in and it worked, for about a minute, now its back to only working on high! I'll check my connector tomorrow. I've noticed when my fan is blowing on high it sounds like its starving, but I can crack a window and it takes off, I guess that would be a clogged cabin filter, right? Thanks for the great posts guys!
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Old 01-07-2011, 12:07 PM   #31
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I've replaced that stupid resistor thing twice in the past year (on the third one now) . Too bad there wasn't a permanent fix. I'm going to inspect the cabin filter to see if I am placing some sort of excessive load on the blower.
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Old 01-07-2011, 12:37 PM   #32
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This is dumb why is this not a recall and toyota wont fix it?
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Old 01-25-2011, 11:26 AM   #33
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I have replaced my resistor three times,the third time i also replaced the blower motor,it worked fine for about six months and then back to the same problem of only working on high speed,but every so often it will work properly,i will check the connections and clean them and put on the grease and see if that helps.I can say one thing,in all my years of owning fords i never had a problem like this.
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Old 02-01-2011, 02:42 PM   #34
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this post saved my life

I was considering committing suicide until I read this post. I was afraid I would have an anurisim fighting with the blower fan resistor, and just wanted to get it over with. The fan would only work on high speed . intermittently it would work on low speed for a couple of weeks then finally only on high. I spent $60 for the first resistor that worked for a while, $40 for the second resistor that worked for a while, then was told the motor was dirty so it was pulling too many amps go ahead and replace it. I did...3 weeks later the reistor failed again (intermittent low speed working). It has been temperate here in south texas so no fan needed for 3 months. I needed it this week and am completely tired of buying $50 resistors.

I knew there was someone in the world who knew what the root cause is. This thread exactly desscribes it. God lead me to this thread I am sure. Not only does my fan now work, but the burned wire ("C" pin on the resistor harness) was burned exactly like the picture. When I say exactly I mean it was nearly pixle for pixle the same when compared.
The wire is definitly pulling too many amps for its size. You are the MAN!!! thanks again!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!

DO NOT REPLACE YOUR RESISTOR BECAUSE IT IS PROBABLY FINE.

Hopefully my truck doesn't catch on fire because that resistor gets really really hot!
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Old 02-02-2011, 02:34 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lonnie View Post
Don't forget to replace the cabin air filter located behind the glove box. When this filter gets clogged up it puts a bigger amp load on the fan motor which in turn burns out this resistor. Recommend at least once a year.
My 2005 taco didnt have a cabin air filter in it.I still had the resitor problem
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Old 02-03-2011, 07:11 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by little pat View Post
I was considering committing suicide until I read this post. I was afraid I would have an anurisim fighting with the blower fan resistor, and just wanted to get it over with. The fan would only work on high speed . intermittently it would work on low speed for a couple of weeks then finally only on high. I spent $60 for the first resistor that worked for a while, $40 for the second resistor that worked for a while, then was told the motor was dirty so it was pulling too many amps go ahead and replace it. I did...3 weeks later the reistor failed again (intermittent low speed working). It has been temperate here in south texas so no fan needed for 3 months. I needed it this week and am completely tired of buying $50 resistors.

I knew there was someone in the world who knew what the root cause is. This thread exactly desscribes it. God lead me to this thread I am sure. Not only does my fan now work, but the burned wire ("C" pin on the resistor harness) was burned exactly like the picture. When I say exactly I mean it was nearly pixle for pixle the same when compared.
The wire is definitly pulling too many amps for its size. You are the MAN!!! thanks again!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!

DO NOT REPLACE YOUR RESISTOR BECAUSE IT IS PROBABLY FINE.

Hopefully my truck doesn't catch on fire because that resistor gets really really hot!
BY THE WAY I WAS THANKING ibJAE....see his post "before you change the resistor.." THANKS
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Old 02-03-2011, 08:00 AM   #37
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This is ridiculous....went out to go to work this morning and my fan only runs on high. I have a 2010 with 4700 miles on it. There is no way this thing should be going out already.
When I turned the fan on it sounded like there could have been ice or something in the blower. I know that on my last vehicle there was a problem with the cowl behind the hood letting water in. Has anyone noticed this problem on 2010s?
Calling stealership today to get it fixed under warranty.
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Old 02-04-2011, 07:32 PM   #38
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I was at my local dealer today and asked them about this problem,.they guy told me he has only had one other person that had this problem(hard for me to believe) he said Toyota has a new fan motor and resistor that is suppose to cure this problem (not to sure if i believe this either) but he said he has ordered one for the other persons truck and will let me know if it is the same or not as the old ones, im not sure what to do next im not going to buy any more motors or resistors.
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Old 02-10-2011, 06:29 AM   #39
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what is the part number of the resister
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Old 02-13-2011, 06:30 AM   #40
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never mind i just wiggled the wires and it started to work on all settings again i'm surprised there's no guard over the plug pretty easy for some dipshit to kick the wires and mess up the connection
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