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Old 03-24-2008, 08:04 AM   #1
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Engine "Break In"

Ok guys, getting my first new vehicle of my life Wednesday. I've heard there is a right way to treat an engine, and a wrong way (I know common sense should prevail here). I was wondering what tips anyone had on breaking in my new engine, it is the 1GR. I've heard everything to drive it like you stole it (my dads logic) and don't go over certain RPM's or engine loads. I really just want some opinions and suggestions.

-I just read somewhere else that there is a recomended break in, in the owners manual. oops
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Old 03-24-2008, 09:01 AM   #2
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My opinion, keep the rpm's low. Don't unecessarily rev the engine. 2k - 2.5k rpms while shifting will keep up in normal traffic flow. Todays engines are built extremely tight compared to those of 20 yrs, or even 10 yrs ago. So being easy on it for the first couple of thousand miles will pay dividends both in the long run if you plan on keeping it, and in better performance after break-in. Mine has 2,700 miles on it and I believe I have hit 3k rpms maybe 3 times to date (passing, avoidance, etc.).

I also like to change the oil/filter around 1,500 miles to remove any metal particles from breaking in with a good brand oil filter and a good quality synthetic oil (0w20 is optimum for the 4 cylinder). Then at 5k I do the same and every 5k after that. So my oil/filter change cycle is 1.5k, 5k. 10, 15k etc. After 5k I will just drive it considering it broke in (although other posts contest that fianal break-in for best fuel mileage isn't seen until sometime between 10k - 20k).

My 2c worth. Hope it helps.
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Old 03-24-2008, 09:06 AM   #3
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I went easy on my truck for the first 3000 miles. I kept it under 3K rpms the whole time. I changed the oil at 3000 miles and replaced with more dino oil.

Also, don't plan on towing or heavy hauling for a little while.
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Old 03-24-2008, 09:24 AM   #4
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Thanks guys, I definately plan on keeping this truck forever. I want to do it right the first time.
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Old 03-24-2008, 09:25 AM   #5
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Just my opinion, no expert here for sure. I think there is a "sweet spot" for the RPM and ease on the engine, that's where the break in should be. Too low RPMs and the engine is overworked and too high RPMs the same. This is especially true for the smaller motors like the 4cyl. JMHO
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Old 03-24-2008, 11:13 AM   #6
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RTFM. I'm joking but seriously, just follow the manual.
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Old 03-24-2008, 05:09 PM   #7
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Dealer told me no hard stops (if possible) for the first 200 miles and no full throttle acceleration for the first 1,000 miles. I've got 2,500 miles on mine now and I drive it fairly easily but am not afraid to mash on the gas if I'm merging, or just for fun

Bottom line is follow what's in the manual, it's Toyota's recommendation. Everything else is just based on opinion and/or whatever your dad taught you growing up. I've yet to see any hard evidence going either way that an engine that was babied when broken in lasts longer than one that was driven hard when broken in.
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Old 03-24-2008, 05:53 PM   #8
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Drove it really easy for the 1st 2500, changed the oil at 500 miles.
Easy acceleration and easy braking for that first 2500 and you shouldn't have any problems.
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Old 03-24-2008, 11:12 PM   #9
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I took it easy for the first 1500 miles, then changed the oil and filter to Penz synthetic and a K&N oil filter.

The difference in smoothness was noticable.

As the miles come on, it does seem to get better mileage and run smoother than it was new. I assume because it was "tight" and the parts weren't worn in to each other.
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Old 03-25-2008, 07:09 PM   #10
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Don't know if this counts but....

I have two friends that work for Honda as mechanics and their recommendation it to leave the factory oil in for the recommended period 5000 KM and do not switch it earlier for the first oil change. They tell me that a factory oil is used with additives for break in.

This is Honda not Toyota... believe in the break in oil or not... lots of speculation on this.

Personally I will wait and change my oil to synthetic on the recommended mileage.
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Old 03-26-2008, 07:08 AM   #11
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For my 2 cents worth, most of the advice given is good, always let the engine come up to temp before any excessive rpm's, with a brand new motor its a good recomendation to keep the rpm's in the 2000rpm range when shifting. Do not "lug" the engine and do not tow anything for the first thousand miles or so. It should be broken in by 1000+ miles , some Taco buddies of mine yank there oil out after the first 1000 miles. A few of them use dino oil and they change every 3000miles, these guys both have superchargers and do push there trucks more than I.
I did not change my oil till the 5 thousand mark, and I did not tow my boat till it had 1500 on it.
I recently kept the oil in for 6200 miles, the oil still looked very good and there was no oil usage that I could see. I finally, did change over to syn oil(Mobil One)(16,500) which I use in our other family vehicle. I will change every 5-6 thousand.

The idea of driving a new vehicle " like you stole it, or like a rented mule" is really not wise.

Jeff , 06,V6,6spd, 4x4, SR5 Radian Red
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Old 03-26-2008, 08:26 AM   #12
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Back in 2001 they gave me a very specific breakin and I followed it religiously. First 500 miles-easy on the gas, NO fullthrottle, and keep your rpm's changing constantly (don't hold them in one spot too long). After that up to 2000 miles full throttle is ok but ease into it and keep it minimal. I personally change the oil every 3000 miles since then. I have 78000 miles now and this is a VERY happy engine. I agree with the guys about the tightness of a new engine-mine didn't "loosen up" till around 25000 miles! I think that's a toyota design secret for longevity and why you must follow a specific breakin if you plan on keeping it like I am.
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Old 03-26-2008, 08:33 AM   #13
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I towed my snowmobile 450lb + trailer 500lbs so say 1000lbs with 50 miles on her 175 miles one way ..I new I would be doing this but I kept the rpms moving up and down, used 4th for the hills and varied my speed and use OD on the declines and varied speed. I have 400 miles on it now and it seems ok. If it going to go, it would have went. 1000lbs ain't much, I did have 2 kids and the wife with me and some luggage.
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Old 03-29-2008, 07:01 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gsm View Post
My opinion, keep the rpm's low. Don't unecessarily rev the engine. 2k - 2.5k rpms while shifting will keep up in normal traffic flow. Todays engines are built extremely tight compared to those of 20 yrs, or even 10 yrs ago. So being easy on it for the first couple of thousand miles will pay dividends both in the long run if you plan on keeping it, and in better performance after break-in. Mine has 2,700 miles on it and I believe I have hit 3k rpms maybe 3 times to date (passing, avoidance, etc.).

I also like to change the oil/filter around 1,500 miles to remove any metal particles from breaking in with a good brand oil filter and a good quality synthetic oil (0w20 is optimum for the 4 cylinder). Then at 5k I do the same and every 5k after that. So my oil/filter change cycle is 1.5k, 5k. 10, 15k etc. After 5k I will just drive it considering it broke in (although other posts contest that fianal break-in for best fuel mileage isn't seen until sometime between 10k - 20k).
As above using Castrol 5W30 and a Toyota filter. Now have 1200 miles and will be installing the Fumoto drain valve that 1st time.
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Old 03-29-2008, 07:13 PM   #15
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I drove mine normal for the first couple of oil changes, maybe only a couple times did I run it up in the RPM`s during this time.After that I would ocasionally run it harder (floor it to redline). 140k and still runs like new and don`t use any oil.
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Old 03-29-2008, 08:43 PM   #16
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I drive my bitch like I stole her. I know it's probably not the best thing, but I can't help myself. I'm still averaging 12 mpg avg. I've got about 2k on the bitch right now.
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Old 03-29-2008, 09:10 PM   #17
My other ride weighs 200 tons
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Quote:
Originally Posted by klown View Post
I drive my bitch like I stole her. I know it's probably not the best thing, but I can't help myself. I'm still averaging 12 mpg avg. I've got about 2k on the bitch right now.
Maybe thats why I'm getting 105 more miles to the tank than you. I'm still taking it pretty easy and averaging at least 17 mpg around town. Haven't been on a road trip since bringing it home. I've only got 1200 miles and going to change the oil at 1500.
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Old 03-29-2008, 09:54 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4x4x4trd View Post
Maybe thats why I'm getting 105 more miles to the tank than you. I'm still taking it pretty easy and averaging at least 17 mpg around town. Haven't been on a road trip since bringing it home. I've only got 1200 miles and going to change the oil at 1500.
I drive pretty conservatively (most of the time) around town and I was getting around 17 mpg for the first several thousand miles. Now I'm almost to 6K and it seems to be loosing up. I'm seeing 18-19 mpg more often.
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Old 03-29-2008, 10:14 PM   #19
My other ride weighs 200 tons
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sawdust View Post
I drive pretty conservatively (most of the time) around town and I was getting around 17 mpg for the first several thousand miles. Now I'm almost to 6K and it seems to be loosing up. I'm seeing 18-19 mpg more often.
That's good to know as I'm sure we'll see $4.00 + per gallon this summer.
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Old 04-01-2008, 03:50 PM   #20
My other ride weighs 200 tons
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Went ahead and changed the oil and filter today at 1210 miles. Day off and I mowed the grass yesterday, read bored. The oil was really pretty dark and dirty. Any way, the replacement stock Toyota filter I put on was about .75" shorter than the one originally on the truck. It still took 5.5 Qt. of Castrol 5W-30 to top off. I installed the Quick Valve in the pan at this time and was really pleased with the ease of the change. Pulled the rubber cap off the oil filter trap and placed a plastic cup under it, turned the filter 2 turns after the pan plug was out and let it all drain for 5 min. and it was pretty much mess free. One paper towel for the small amount of oil in the filter trap and done. So much better design than my '99 was. You had to be double jointed and on ramps to still make a mess on that one, even with the skid plates removed.
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