Thule Roof Rack Installation Help

So I'm a newby on these Tacomas like I've said before and like before I have a question about the Thule Roof Racks.

I did some research here, went on thier website and tried to call customer service but couldn't get in to find answers. Anyway, to the point: I settled on a Thule and I need to know what the install is like on a normal (no OEM rack) 09 Taco roof.

1. Is there any drilling involved?
2. Do I have to remove the rubber OEM tubes from the gutters?
3. How do they sound when on?

Thanks for the input once again!

 

did you get just the base pillars and bars along with the faring? I didn't get the faring with mine just yet and it is a liltte noisy but not so bad you can't stand it. Installation is easy although it looks a little confusing at first. You do not have to drill or remove anything. Assemble the front and rear bars on the ground as the instructions say ( if you have them) and then measure out where the pillar needs to sit on the door jam.... i think i measured 13" back on each side from the windshield for the front pillars to mount. The back pillars i centered in the back door jam. once you get everything set up on top of the truck just even out the side to side measurements so that it is centered and tighten everything down. It took me about an hour the first time to install mine because i kept going back to the measurement instructions but once you get all that worked out the reinstall only takes 5 mins max.

 

just like gonzo6up said ^^
Basically footpak, towers, and load bars. Fairing and locks are optional along with any attachments.
I do have a fairing and do not even notice it anymore. One of my towers did whistle at the very beginning (I did not get the locksets).
A piece of black electrical tape over that spot & no more whistle. Its been on for 3+ yrs now. I like the rack alot no issues even in a touchless car wash.

 

'ppreciate the post guys. Simon's, do you recommend the locks and faring to stop the whistle or just the locks?

Gonzo, any pictures posted of it?

 

Same as the above replies. Initial setup was about an hour but now they are very easy to install when needed. I don't have the fairing and I don't really notice any excessive noise. I always have the box on so without it there may be some whistling. Overall it is very sturdy and an excellent place to store more stuff!!!!

 

I just took it off last weekend. I'm putting the rack back on this week for a canoe trip so i'll get you some close up pics then.

 

i have some pictures of my thule rack in my gallery. as for the fairing, i think it's luck of the draw, some people done have any noise, some people do. i got a crazy whistle from mine, got a fairing two days later and the whistle completely went away.

 

this is the only pic i have right now of the rack installed, maybe it will help


54238

 

I know the whistle was coming from spot (its like a blank where the lock cylinders fit in) for with the window open, if I put my hand up over the spot the whistle went away.

I think as said so many factors go into whether they whistle or not. I know if I twist my kayak cinch straps, they do not vibrate or make any noise at all. I use J-Hulls though. It would be different if I just lashed it down to the load bars.

Your choice on the locks, since I was keeping mine on in every season in salty wet Vermont, I knew over time, the lock would not work. I have not had a issue (knock on wood) with thievery.

Here is a pic you can see the black electric tape on the side of the tower. Also pics in my gallery as well.

 

^^^ that is a good source for whistles, but i had two sources, i put lock cylenders in, and that whistle went away, but the other one didn't untill i put the fairing on...you just have to trial and error it

 

I would definitely buy the fairing at some point even though its not the cheapest as it helped tremendously with the anoying whistling noise.

 

Picture of the Thule rack. I have others if you want to see them.

 

I see, so the locks are for security and (maybe) help out with the whistle. I am going to get the fairing. I like the look of it but if it up's my chances of not having a whistle then that's cool too. I appreciate the help and pictures.

One more question, on some of these pictures I see the piece going into the door (Simon's picture and one of Colinb's) is that how they stay on? I know gonzo said no drilling. Def. don't want to drill. I'm going to order this thing next week. I'll put pictures up as soon as I do. Thanks again.

 

No drilling. There is a bolt setup that is part of the tower which applies pressure to the piece you see set into the door. You tighten by hand the mechanism and its secures it. Do the opposite to take it off. As said mine has been on there for 3 yrs with no problems, leaking. I check it every time I use it and occassionally move to clean/wax the area.

 

I think as said so many factors go into whether they whistle or not. I know if I twist my kayak cinch straps, they do not vibrate or make any noise at all. I use J-Hulls though. It would be different if I just lashed it down to the load bars.

Your choice on the locks, since I was keeping mine on in every season in salty wet Vermont, I knew over time, the lock would not work. I have not had a issue (knock on wood) with thievery.

How long is your kayak Jude? Can you carry your boats with just two racks on the top of your truck?

I was thinking that I would use one rack in the front of my truck and get the Thule Goalpost for the hitch. I have the saddles too.

I would recommend the locks especially if you're using your truck to haul boats into the woods and are going to be away from it for any length of time. Thule racks and accessories aren't cheap!!!!

 

I know your getting a Thule rack but here is my old Yakima rack w/fairing so you can get an idea of how the Thule one will look with it on. I decided to go with the OEM rack last year so the Yakima's sitting in my garage!!!

 

My kayaks are 12' wilderness systems pungos.

They have a pretty wide cockpit/flat bottoms so trying to use two sets of saddles was difficult. The J Hulls work great on top of the DC & have driven from VT to Maine several times with no issues. Also have shoved another 14' kayak in between the J Hulls a couple of times on shorter trips so its actually carried 3 up there w/o problems. Just gotta remember bank drive-thrus, neighborhood basketball hoops that are along the side of the road, parking garages.....
I take the Jhulls off when not carting them around, I don't have the fancy fold down ones...

What is the length of your kayak?

 

Nice wheels!!

I have 14' and a 13'. But I also only have an access cab too, which doesn't give me quite the space that you have on top. I suppose I could just see what the RackAttack guys have to say/recommend. I also don't have the fancy fold down type.

Too many things to spend money on with these things, huh?!?!?!

 

Thanks for the post. Do you like the OEM rack? What do you use the rack for primarily?

I sort of just jumped in on this thread because I just bought my Taco and I was looking to rack it. I have a set of Thule bars and a set of Yakima bars which I will have to change the feet on if I wanted to use them.

I was considering putting a set of racks on my undercover tonneau cover to carry bikes. I'm just not sure that I could bring myself to drill through it at this point!

 

I had no problems with the Yakima rack at all. I swapped them out for the OEM ones because I liked the fact that you can stow away the bars off to the side on the OEM rack for better aerodynamics. I primarily use them for packing around snowboards with the Thule vertical snowboard holders. Havent really used them for much else but they work just fine.

I to am also thinking about using my Yakima rack system for the bed of my truck to pack around bikes as well. It would most likely be a custom job so we will see. I am just waiting for the weather to get warmer so I can mess around outside with my truck.