Bored at work = Bedrail tiedowns

I was bored at work today, hanging cable tray sucks. Decided since I have the perfect supply of materials and a grinder and bandsaw that I'd make some bedrail tiedowns. The weakest part (not counting the bedrail) is the nut rated at 1200 pounds, and the eyebolts are good for 1550 pounds
"working weight". No more plastic tiedown cleats, fully adjustable, add as many tiedowns as you like.

Thinking of mass producing these, how much would be a reasonable price to charge?

 

I would say like 4 for 10 bucks, plus shipping, good job though, I did somethin similar when those bed rails came out saved myself like 45 bucks

 

yeah not gonna ship, just local deals

 

thats pretty sweet. let me know if you decide to start shipping some out, i would be interested

 

Pretty cool design! I like them better then the stock bed rail tie-downs. Less easy for people to steal as well. Great job

 

Thanks guys.

everleet it'd be cheaper to make yourself than for me to ship i think. I can give you a parts/tools/howto rundown if you'd like

 

Is that 3/8" hardware? I'm running the flat washer inside the track, otherwise the unistrut nut pops out.

 

looks like regular strut sping nut 1/4 20 thread. could be wrong not sure what he used.

 

I would like to know how you made these so I can make some. Thank You.

 

I used 3/8in for mine.

 

3/8"x16. I ground down some 1/4"x20 nuts too for lighter stuff. Mine couldn't pop out, perfect fit and the nut wont fit in the track sideways

 

I know you've heard it before and this has nothing to do with the thread but your truck set up kicks azz!

 

if you decide to make a few to ship i would be interested in four of them....if the price was reasonable?

 

This is all you need

Solid Eye Bolt 3/8"x16
Spring Nut/Strut Nut/Unistrut Nut 3/8"x16
3/8" Fender Washer
3/8"x16 Hex Nut
3/8" Lock Washer
Take the Strut Nut, if you have a spring nut, cut the spring off
Cut or grind down the center of the grooves on the nut
I use a band saw but a grinder or metal cutting wheel for grinder or dremel would work too

The easiest method for working on the nut that I had was putting it on the end of a 1 foot piece of 3/8"x16 threaded rod with a hex nut to keep it from spinning
Before:

After:



"Final" Just add paint


Just a note, if you decide to work with 1/4"x20 hardware, I wouldn't recommend it for heavy load tiedowns but mounting bike mounts or lighter stuff would be fine, they are thinner. I'd cut off HALF or 2/3 of the spring, not all of it.
1/4"x20 spring nut on the left 3/8"x16 spring nut on the right

 

nice writeup

 

Thanks for all the info, I was able to do some bedrail mods after reading this post

 

sold 8 for $50 to a guy with a Tundra

 

holy crap!!! that is all im going to say!