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Is a Torque wrench absolutely necessary?

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Old 04-29-2010, 01:08 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 05Moose View Post
I've got that one. My only complaint is it keeps loosening the adjuster and may change the torque setting on you as you use it. But it works. While you're at it, get a socket for your lug nuts to fit it too and don't ever use the lug nut wrench that came with the truck (store the torque wrench in its place instead). Using the OEM wrench will strip the fake cover off your lug nuts (or warp them).
Yeh too late for that lol. My lug nuts looks like shit. I have to beat them out of the socket everytime I rotate tires now, beacause they wont fit in the size they're supposed to.

anyways, I'm heading to Oreilly's now, Ill post pics tonight even though I'm only working on the back today, then doing my 5100's up front Sunday. CANT WAIT!
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Old 04-29-2010, 01:30 PM   #22
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Under tightened - Comes loose

Over tightened - weakins the bolts strength
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Old 04-29-2010, 01:44 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 08armytaco View Post
Under tightened - Comes loose

Over tightened - weakins the bolts strength
+1!
I like to use a torque wrench because it takes the guess work out of the equation. The click type is the best for most jobs. But for really critical bolts I like to use the bar type.
Over time the click type can go out of calibration.

Craftsman makes a very reliable and affordable bar torque wrench.

My click type are all Snap-On.
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Old 04-29-2010, 01:48 PM   #24
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Old 04-29-2010, 02:01 PM   #25
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I use torque wrenches as well, rims and brake drums can warp very easily, depending on how big a guy you are or the size of the bar you are using. One thing to note is that all torque wrenches are not built the same, you get what you pay for. It is also important to note that most torque wrenches are only accurate within a certain range of their torque scale(middle). The cheaper ones can be out of spec as much as 15% at the very bottom and top of their scales. So, that means that if you are using the torque wrench to tighten your lug nuts to say 90lb/ft then a wrench that is good for 50-150lb/ft is a safe bet.
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Old 04-29-2010, 02:02 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MxRacer190 View Post
Yeh too late for that lol. My lug nuts looks like shit. I have to beat them out of the socket everytime I rotate tires now, beacause they wont fit in the size they're supposed to.

anyways, I'm heading to Oreilly's now, Ill post pics tonight even though I'm only working on the back today, then doing my 5100's up front Sunday. CANT WAIT!
Let me know if you want better replacements. I have all the ones I ordered and used from LA Wheel & Tire (much better than the toyota crap) for sale since I just bought new wheels.
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Old 04-29-2010, 02:17 PM   #27
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well I got my torque wrench, but some stuff came up, so I'll have to wait until tomorrow morning to start Better to start fresh anyway.
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Old 04-29-2010, 02:25 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MxRacer190 View Post
I may sound like a child, but why? What difference does it make? As long as it doesn't come loose.
^ yep sure do!!

always uses a torque wrench when required. now, if were talking about the brass fitting in my TRD CAI, i can see passing on, but when its the ubolts for my leafs..torque them down!

as others have said, HF has a 1/2 drive one for like $15, lifetime warranty.
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Old 04-29-2010, 02:56 PM   #29
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Cool Get one ASAP

If you have a small bolt, use a small 1/4" drive ratchet, for most automotive work use medium 3/8" drive ratchet, for big suspension bolts use a 1/2" drive ratchet and breaker bar.
Using common sense and the right tool for the job makes it easier and faster, whenever torque needs to be specific, use the torque wrench.
When you use the torque wrench the first time, try it on your wheels and you will probably find out that you're overtorquing things, do the same in a few projects and you'll develop the habit of using it due to the fact that you over torque things regularly.
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Old 04-29-2010, 02:57 PM   #30
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It makes me happy to see so many say that a torque wrench is the right way to go.

I even torque oil drain plugs! But you know what? The cars that only I service, you can break the drain plug loose with a wrench and take it out with your fingers. Even when the vehicles have over 250K on them. Unlike the Honda I worked on today that the lady takes to lube shops. The plug came out with the threads. Oh, and it was low on oil with a variable valve timing fault.........

Spark plugs are another issue. You will see torque values of 13-30 foot pounds depending on the application. All about materials and sealing style.

Many shops keep lug nuts and studs in stock. I have a hard time remembering when I had to replace one on any vehicle I work on with any regularity. If they have just had new tires or a service elsewhere, look out.

The comments people have made about warping drums and rotors is spot on. Even have seen repeated failures of hub style bearing caused by the use of an impact to install. Go figure. The XXX torque value actually helps set preload in some designs.

I own four. I am switching over to the new digital ones now. (already have one) They self calibrate. You would be shocked at how far off a mechanical wrench can get over time.
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Old 04-29-2010, 03:04 PM   #31
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I should use a torque wrench more often but my elbow is calibrated pretty accurately -- I have a good feel for an approximate value. Any engine work (especially spark plugs or cyl heads) or suspension work, I definitely use the tq wrench.
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Old 04-29-2010, 03:35 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yosh2000 View Post
^ yep sure do!!

always uses a torque wrench when required. now, if were talking about the brass fitting in my TRD CAI, i can see passing on, but when its the ubolts for my leafs..torque them down!

as others have said, HF has a 1/2 drive one for like $15, lifetime warranty.

What is HF?
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Old 04-29-2010, 03:37 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by wlmuncy View Post
What is HF?
Harbor Freight
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Old 04-29-2010, 03:40 PM   #34
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I have had one since the first time I broke a water pump bolt years ago. You will only do that once before you learn. I can't imagine not having one with newer engines and parts. Spend money and buy a good one, it will last you a lifetime if you take care of it. I usually buy Craftsman tools just for the warranty and ease of returning them.
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Old 04-29-2010, 06:42 PM   #35
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the reading a torque wrench gives you is just a ball park. some engineer figured a fastener of a certian size needs to be TENSION some amount. they test them on a tool called a skidmore, and note the torque needed to reach the tension. then they tell us. this is in a perfect world. we add antiseize, it acts as a lube, numbers get wacked. rust? wacked. having said that..rebuilding motors? i use a torque wrench..same for wheels. some things, i just tighten down.
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Old 04-29-2010, 06:51 PM   #36
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Bolts and studs are designed to be stretched a particular amount when they are tight. Too much, they can break or strip the threads. Too little, they will either loosen or not hold the parts tight enought (eg.,a cylinder head will leak and cut). Guessing at torque on suspension parts is attempted suicide.
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Old 04-29-2010, 06:56 PM   #37
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yea, you are right...but i tested bolts for months on end. big fancy torque wrenches, and a skidmore. day in and day out. just testing nut/bolts before we put them into service on a steel bridge. you would be surprised the range a bolt has before it moves from the elastic ductile zone to yielded.

in general, if you can get a torque wrench on the target fastener, do it. i have a slew of them. one is an 8' snap on (from work).
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Old 04-29-2010, 07:42 PM   #39
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I have broken and stripped so many nuts and bolts, with the corresponding extra work, delays, and cost, that I definitely recommend a good torque wrench, if you do much automotive work you probably even need 2, one for lower levels of torque (inch-lbs) and one for the heavier duty stuff, lug nuts, suspension components, valve cover bolts, spark plugs, and yes, oil drain plugs. Everything in a service manual with a torque value, it is there for good reason, and having things torqued correctly is worth a lot, peace of mind that it is tight enough, and avoidance of making a job a lot more complicated due to breakage. My manual sense of how tight things should be is a lot better than it was years ago, but I don't trust it.

So, yes.
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Old 04-29-2010, 07:50 PM   #40
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I'm taking everyone's advice, and already bought a torque wrench. My thing is about EVERYTHING being torqued to spec is. . . take my motocross bike for example. Every nut and bolt on that thing has a torque spec, but there is absolutely no need to torque any bolt on it(besides the engine).
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