New D Rings Available

I just figured I would put two back there while I was taking those bolts out anyways. There was no downside to putting 2 more in the bed, so I figured why not? It's not a bid deal, I was just curious if anyone else noticed this and would know why those back bolts are shorter, or the threads started lower than the others.....

 

I bought the more expensive set from Army supply and so far no rust.

 

Just got done installing my 4 new d-rings. 2 up front and 2 in the center of the bed!!

 

I don't have anything nearly the right size to pull the bed bolts out for this project. And, the local hardwares and Lowes top out at a T-60 which appears to be half the size more or less. Before I begin random socket purchase, anyone know what size the bed bolt takes?

Thanks,

 

It's a T-55. Here's another thread on the same rings:

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-tacomas/28533-installed-d-rings-bed-pics.html

 

t-55

 

Thanks! I know I can get a T-55. And now I know where to get the D-Rings.
I agree, wouldn't at least two in the front make a balance to the two in the rear. Can't imagine the Toyota accountants won that battle of the buck, probably literally a dollar at mass quantity.

 

awesome.. doing this!

 

um, no
There was no anti seize on the bolts I took out. There was however, a hard, plastic like substance in the threads, similar to what you find when you take a bolt out that has had thread sealer on it.
But I would be interested to hear as to why you would not want loctite on them.

PS, NICE DAMN TRUCK beef TACO!

 

If you look at my earlier posts on this thread I had other D-rings installed that I took out to replace with these. I used Loctite on them and yes it's a little tougher to remove them but I did without using heat, just using my good old honkin big ratchet.
But, if I should, for what ever reason, need to remove them again and need to use some heat, I am fairly confindent that I can apply heat to them without burning the bed down.

Now if someone on here feels that they cannot get them out without burning the bed down, then by all means, use anti-seize! Just posting what I did, it's not the gospel by any means.

 

TINKER - thanks bro! i got plans for it!.. black heads goin on next.. a few little things here and there.. but happy with it so far!

 

Can anyone tell me the exact size tool or bit I need to take the bed rails off to install these milspec D-Rings? I just got 6....this is a great idea for additional bungee cord attachment points.....I always have lighter stuff and plastic bins I need to just keep from flying out of the back. Excellent idea.

 

You don't need to take the rail off, just take out the bolt with a power screwdriver, shove and wiggle the new D-Ring up under the rail, align the holes, and put the bolt back in. You'll see that I smashed in the hinge so it wouldn't rattle.

 

Looks likes it is a Torx T30....

 

Ya...I understood that...should have been cleared in my ask. Thanks.

 

you need a t-30 bit

 

Yeppers. Thank! I am going to install one on each side with the bolt heads in the metal flange just inside the tailgate. I have always wanted bungee cord points at the top rear of the bed. I attached on to the outside torx bolt on the inside of the tailgate, but not a good flat fitment. I'll post pics when finished. (I am spraying mine gloss enamel black....)

 

I decided to put two of the D-Rings at the top rear of the bed - see pic. Has anyone put these D-Rings (the ones from ArmySurplus.com) under the bed rails yet? They look pretty thick and I expect will cause the rail to be extended out just a bit. Not a problem, but might be more stable if there was a D-Ring behind each screw (4 on each side....). Thoughts/experience?

 

TicTacOma did

See page three of this thread