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NGK iridium plugs?

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Old 05-06-2010, 06:25 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlueT View Post
So is there a part number for NGK's sitting o n the driver side ?? I see part number for Denso's that Chris posted but not seen NGK.?
I didnt list the NGK's as they dont hold a gap well. They are out of spec after 20K miles. The Denso plugs listed in my write up are the best I have tried.
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Old 05-06-2010, 06:46 PM   #42
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From experience with my truck, changed my plugs at 100k just because. Gas mileage always stayed around 19.5 - 21.3. They looked really good, so I went back with factory and I'll change them at my next 100k.
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Old 05-06-2010, 06:46 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmerchant3 View Post
Sigh, I guess I'll let you have the last word...
Its not a matter of having the last word. Your comparing different engines in different states of tune. A friend and I spent 2 days dynoing different plugs, in 3 different engines (5VZ, 1GR-FE, and a Diamler 4.7). The best gains all were had with the OEM recomended plugs. Many of the Iridium plugs showed a slight loss, though it was within the margin of error of the dyno. We got 4 CEL's on the Toyotas when useing a Non copper/nickle plug. Wife threw out my notes, so I cant give details on what plugs did what. All gaps were tripple checks, and gapped to manufacter specs. Your agument of "Iridium/platinum plugs being the 'best'" is simply not the case in these engines. Mind teh 1GR is a more forgiving engine (IIRC, only 1 CEL was throw), while the 5VZ was very finicky with what was used. This being said, by all means, keep useing the platinum/iridium plugs of your favor, as you seem very content with them. I simply recomend what I think is best, based on my tests, and results. In any FI application, I will always recomend a "colder plug" such as an Iridium, or the like, but in an NA aplication, in the engines I have tested, I found no advantage.
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Old 05-06-2010, 07:46 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by black_magic2010 View Post
.... I just bought my 2010 TACO and was suprised that it came with the old school copper plugs. As far as changing over to irridiums i would just so i dont have to change the plugs as often.
Wow...sorry to start this...

I was also surprised when I read of the 30K service interval in the manual and saw what I expected when NGK listed copper plugs as the OEM replacement.

If it wasn't already apparent...I like the longer life of platinums and iridiums and will use them too. Careful use of anti-seize makes removal of plugs with 100k miles from aluminum heads a non-problem.

Any potential gains from plug material is doubtless very small and quickly lost as the copper electrode erodes. As it must.
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Old 05-06-2010, 07:54 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by buddywh1 View Post
Wow...sorry to start this...

I was also surprised when I read of the 30K service interval in the manual and saw what I expected when NGK listed copper plugs as the OEM replacement.

If it wasn't already apparent...I like the longer life of platinums and iridiums and will use them too. Careful use of anti-seize makes removal of plugs with 100k miles from aluminum heads a non-problem.

Any potential gains from plug material is doubtless very small and quickly lost as the copper electrode erodes. As it must.
Yeah, It's all your fault this got started when you quoted me. lol j/k
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Old 05-07-2010, 02:21 AM   #46
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Off Topic....ummm I just changed my plugs, at 40k, I didnt use anti seize. Should I take them out and wrap them, or do you think I should be ok. I will change again in 30K more.
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Old 05-07-2010, 05:56 AM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TACOMA TRD View Post
Off Topic....ummm I just changed my plugs, at 40k, I didnt use anti seize. Should I take them out and wrap them, or do you think I should be ok. I will change again in 30K more.
If your plan is to keep your Tacoma for 200K+ miles I certainly would. But then I'm really conservative about things I'm not sure of .

I know NGK is big on their thread finish and don't recommend use of anti seize, I'd assume Denso is the same. But it's my truck, it does no harm, so why not?
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Old 05-07-2010, 06:15 AM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris4x4 View Post
The OEM plugs are not "Bad". They are designed to run with the ignition requirements that Toyota paid big bucks to a bunch of engineers to deisgn. And at the propper heat range. Useing Platinum, iridium, or whatever, is a waste. In some cases, a Check engine light has been thrown when useing them. Aside from "maybe" lasting longer, they offer no advantage over the OEM Nickle/copper plugs.
What causes a CEL when using iridium or platinum plugs?
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Old 05-07-2010, 06:19 AM   #49
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Old 05-07-2010, 06:25 AM   #50
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Well is it possible that fuel has something to do with shorter life of copper plugs or CEL with Iridium's?.
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Old 05-07-2010, 06:30 AM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmerchant3 View Post
It's just that you were correct in your first statement as to say that Toyota designed the truck to run with copper plugs. But to state that these are best for the truck is by far a longshot. Toyota pays engineers hundreds of thousands of dollars to engineer these cars. But to what standards? It's not always to be the "best". I can assure you that regular plugs were used to cut down on the cost of the vehicle. You would be amazed at what manufactures do to cut in every area they can. (ever seen a higher end Acura or Lexus with standard plugs?)

Platinum and iridium offer MANY advantages over copper plugs. Longer life is the number one fact. Copper plugs need to be replaced every 30K due to the wearable center electrode. Platinum and Iridium are much more resilient metals and can take the heat and extreme pressures that the combustion chamber produces. I've changed thousands of iridium plugs at 100K and they still looked brand new besides some normal carbon buildup. These metals also allow for a sharper center electrode therefore creating a better more consistent spark. This in turn leads to better gas mileage and better horsepower and torque readings. Are the gains significant? No...not in a stock application, but they are there.

Just a little something i found as well...

||Metal|| ||Melting Point|| ||Electrical Conductivity|| ||Thermal Conductivity||
||Copper|| ||1083 C|| ||.596 x 10^6|| ||400 W/(m K)||
||Platinum|| ||1768 C|| ||.0966 x 10^6|| ||72 W/(m K)||
||Iridium|| ||2410 C|| ||.197 x 10^6|| ||150 W/(m K)||

The higher the number for conductivity the more conductive the metal is. In terms of thermal conductivity the higher the number the faster it can dissipate heat away from the tip of the center electrode.

These numbers will show why some people still use copper plugs in an turbo engine. But for everyday applications, put the iridiums in there and save yourself the hassle and money of changing them 1 time vs 4 times in the time that the iridiums will last.

Copper
$3.00 X 6 = $18.00
18 X 4 = $72.00

Iridium
$7.50 X 6 = $45.00

(If you change every 30K with copper and 120K with the iridiums)

BTW I meant no offence in my comment Just my nature.
This made me laugh. My 05 4cyl is spec'd from factory with denso iridiums.
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Old 05-07-2010, 06:53 AM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SManZ View Post
What causes a CEL when using iridium or platinum plugs?
No idea.

Quote:
Originally Posted by T@co_Pr3runn3r View Post
This made me laugh. My 05 4cyl is spec'd from factory with denso iridiums.
Yep. All the second gen 2.7 have Iridium plugs from the factory.
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Old 06-15-2010, 07:26 AM   #53
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Sorry to bump a oldish thread but I'm about to install iridiums in my 1grfe. What was the code it was throwing? P0300-p0306?
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Old 06-15-2010, 08:26 AM   #54
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I put in my truck the NGK (6619) LFR6AIX-11 Iridium IX ,
are excellent Spark Plug...
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Old 08-29-2010, 05:40 PM   #55
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Question Spark Plugs

I am wanting to know if I should change up to iridium plugs or stick with the OEM plugs.
Has anyone experienced the difference in plugs.
looking for information before I change
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Old 08-29-2010, 05:46 PM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob r View Post
I am wanting to know if I should change up to iridium plugs or stick with the OEM plugs.
Has anyone experienced the difference in plugs.
looking for information before I change
IMHO, Stick with the OEM.
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Old 03-28-2011, 02:20 PM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Timber View Post
I would rather change the plugs 3 times in 100,000 just because I don't want to deal with pulling plugs for the first time out of an aluminum head after 100,000 miles.
The plug threads get anti-seize compound at the factory. No worries. See next quote:

Quote:
Originally Posted by buddywh1 View Post
Careful use of anti-seize makes removal of plugs with 100k miles from aluminum heads a non-problem.
Exactly

Quote:
Originally Posted by TACOMA TRD View Post
I just changed my plugs at 40k, I didn't use anti-seize. Should I take them out and wrap them, or do you think I should be ok. I will change again in 30K more.
Take them out when the engine is cool, apply anti-seize compound, and reinstall using proper torque.
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Old 03-28-2011, 05:54 PM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris4x4 View Post
I didnt list the NGK's as they dont hold a gap well. They are out of spec after 20K miles. The Denso plugs listed in my write up are the best I have tried.
I disagree on the NGK iridums quote. They are in my truck now with 80,000 miles on them & no issues.
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Old 04-28-2011, 03:05 PM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by genxer36 View Post
I disagree on the NGK iridums quote. They are in my truck now with 80,000 miles on them & no issues.
I just ran into this thread and figured i better change my plugs. I have 81,000 miles and haven't changed em yet ... .... i have no idea what plugs are in there. i wanna keep my truck running top notch so i better change these. It runs awesome and everything is kickass but I prob should change them bad boys out!
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Old 04-29-2011, 05:56 PM   #60
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oh nvm...
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