Fram Oil Filters

Can you provide proof to backup your statement? If you have puddles of oil under your car, why would you even consider synthetic? Not all leaks will leave puddles on the ground either. Please read the link I posted above. It's been proven that if your car burns oil or has a developed leak, changing to a synthetic can expose or amplify a problem; however it will in its own right not cause one.

Here's another source to back up mine and Janster's claim:
http://www.synlubes.com/about/faqs.html

 

This statement makes perfect sense to me!!

 

What OCI are you running with the OEM filter? I wouldn't go past 5k and therefore not getting benefit from extended perf M1.

 

Super Tech's are made by Fram- check the part numbers...

 

I think you're wanting to find an argument where there is none!

First of all: any change can expose latent problems, so that's not a surprise and hard to find fault that changing oil types... even just to a different brand or weight if the motorist has been using one brand or weight consistently... would APPEAR to cause a problem. So, if the caution is to be properly stated it should not be limited to synthetic oil types.

Second: the myth as commonly perpetuated is pretty absolute in that it assumes a high degree of cause/effect relationship, i.e., "switch to synth, and it WILL leak". I've personally demonstrated that it's a myth by switching to it in my high-mileage motors several times, each with no leaking problems. It may have started seeping, but I'd never know it if it was at hidden seals (crank mains, for instance) and therefore I didn't/wouldn't care. I've also known a number of people to switch, each with no leaking problems.

EDIT: Actually, that's not completely true...I switched to Mobil1 0W30 in my high-miles Rodeo V6, it was already leaking into the spark plug tubes and the leaking did continue (that engine is famous for it...Isuzu even came out with modified plug wires with boots to seal the plug better.) If the new, very light-weight oil (I'd been using 20w50) did make it worse I couldn't have cared less 'cause it SOOOOO improved the noisy engine by cleaning out the varnish in the lifter oiling ports.

Finally: my statement is a matter of semantics and degree: I personally don't consider minor seepage a leak, and I think 90% of motorists would never find an issue with seepage that doesn't appear as puddles on the ground.

 

Always treated me good

supertech better than anything?

 

Re-read his statement (I had to)
Also, the myth isn't about minor seepage...it's about genuine leaks that leave puddles on the ground.

This means -The MYTH being, changing over to synthetics can cause a major leak. If you've already got a major oil leak - it is NOT due to changing over to synthetics. And yes - using synthetics can amplify an existing problem.

It is NOT a myth that synthetics can cause seepage and other minor things.

 

NOT according to his linked article which claims the switch doesn't CAUSE it, it just EXPOSES the condition in the seal that the build-up of the old oil was 'plugging'.

 

Didn't I say this exact thing earlier?

 

I apologize if this may seem overly pedantic, but we seem to be involved in a semantics thing: I'm referring to your specific statement:

"It is NOT a myth that synthetics can cause seepage and other minor things."

The operative word is 'cause'. It doesn't 'cause' it, according to the articles linked earlier. To cause it of necessity means it would cause it even to brand new, well designed seals. I don't think that is your intended meaning, but it's not at all clear.

 

X2 I use a rebadged Puralator Premium Plus called Power Flo its the same filter I get them at R&S Strauss Automotive for less than $3 in oversized 10195 I think thats the number excellent deal.

 

I dont think so I thought they were made by Champion the same company that makes K&N oil filters.

 

Yeah...it's a big brain fart.

Maybe the word 'result' is better. Using synthetics may or may not result in seepage (when switching over to synthetics in older vehicles).

 

What do part numbers have to do with who makes what? The number just make it easier to cross reference.
Super Techs are made by Champion, a very high quality filter manufacturer.

 

I have used Fram before without any problems, probably because I have always changed my oil on a regular basis. But for those of us who want our engines to last a VERY long time (250k+) yes it matters what kind of filter. I use either PureOne or Denso (Toyota).

 

Nothing is wrong with them. It's amusing to see the brand loyalties here....

 

That link story is LOL, why did he have to destroy the filter to get it off again? Looks like that guy just wanted to show something was bad in his pics, anybody can do that about anything they want.

My TGS have been fine, never have a problem and the price is right, and I can get the mobil 1 syn or Quaker HP syn with it for under 28bucks at Wally world. Change out at 5-6k and they still almost look new.


Oh and going over 200k...all the time around here with the Frams on all types of Chebby's and Tacos..go figure

 

Wrong!! SuperTech's are made by Champion labs..... Fram's are made by Honeywell. The only reason Walmart decided to number the SuperTech's the same as Fram, was for convenience and comparison to the same Fram lineup they sell in their stores.

 

I am not sure why everyone thinks the OE Toyota filters are so great. I'm not saying they're bad, but I'd like to know why people say to use the OE filter? Because Toyota uses it? Because it's made by Denso?

This is what the OE filter on my 09 Tacoma looked like on the inside





looks like an odd design to me, but I'm sure it's ok. I'm no oil filter expert, but I don't see "world's best filter" here.


Here are some more filters. L to R: purolator, Mitsubishi OE from a 2006 Evo (can't remember who makes it, denso?), Honda OE from an 07 civic.

And if this was a Honda website would you say "Use the OE honda oil filter..." If so, it's a repainted Fram.





I used Fram filters for 10+ yrs, >200k miles. Never had a problem. But, they clearly are a inferior design. When I saw the first online filter cut away pics, the mini mopar one cited in this thread, 10+ yrs ago, I stopped using Fram and switched to Purolator.

This is a main bearing from one of my cars. It's a 1992 turbocharged 4 cylinder mitsubishi (4G63) engine, 2.0L, ~195 stock HP, 250k miles on it at this point. I pulled the oil pan to reseal it and figured I'd pull a main bearing cap to see how the bearings look- it looks literally like it has a few thousand miles on it.

160k miles on this bearing with fram filters. Then 90k with Purolator filters. Conventional oil changed every 3500-4000 miles. So, there is clearly enough filtration media in a Fram despite the Goldilocks inspection judgement of "looks like too much media and would be restrictive". Or "looks like not enough media...". People should skip statements like that w/o data of some type.






I'm no fan of Fram oil filters, I haven't bought one in ~10 years, but I'm a bit skeptical of the youtube video. The guy buys one filter to cut it open and gets one improperly assembled? I'm the only one that finds this odd LOL? While it's definitely possible I'm a bit suspicious of the odds here. Plus, other brand filters are assembled the same way- so I'm sure they could have the same defect as they're all mass produced parts. I would love for someone to buy a bunch of fram filters and cut them open and see how many defects they find. I'm in for $5 if someone wants to do it.

My longest post on a forum in a long time, hopefully it comes thru ok!