I just removed the crank pulley bolt on my truck for the S/C install. This guide will grow a bit since some of the photos are on my camera at work.
You will need;
-22mm 1/2" drive socket.
-Breaker bar, 18-24" long, 1/2" drive
-Crank pulley holder tool (see link below)
-Two M8 x 1.25 x 60mm bolts. Bolts must be all-thread.
-Six M8 x 1.25 nuts
-Torque wrench, 1/2" drive
-Trolley jack with a cupped lift point and casters
This is the pulley holder tool I used.
First, use the flat blade screwdriver to remove 4 of the 5 plastic plugs that hold the rubber flap onto the frame on the inside of the passenger side fender well.
Remove your skidplate if you have one. My truck is lifted 3". You may need to get your truck off the ground a little if you're at stock height.
Then, use a 10mm socket to remove the one bolt for the bracket that holds the fluid line that is closest to the crank pulley. Its in front of my lower finger in this photo.
Set up your pulley holder tool like this before you start;
From left to right,
After the bolts are screwed into the pulley,
-The first nut is screwed against the pulley face to spread out any twisting forces. I bent my first set of bolts because I didn't do this.
-The second and third nuts are used to hold the tool perfectly perpendicular to the pulley bolt, and to keep the tool from shifting when the pulley bolt is torqued.
Put the truck in neutral. Put the 22mm socket on your breaker bar. Use the 22mm socket to turn the crank pulley so that the 2 holes are lined up vertically.
With your pulley holder tool set up, get under the truck and pass the handle end towards the opening on the passenger fenderwell. Lay the handle on top of the frame. Place the tool behind all the fluid lines except the one you removed the 10mm bolt to. The tool goes in front of this line. You can move the larger fluid line closest to the pulley out of the way since you removed the bolt.
Screw the M8 bolts in by hand until you feel them touch the engine case on the back of the pulley, then back them out a full turn. I did it this way because I didn't want to risk damaging the crank seal.
Screw the innermost 8mm nuts down against the pulley face. Then, use the 2 remaining 8mm nuts to hold the tool flush with the outer face of the pulley. Tighten these two nuts together so there is no room for the tool to slop around.
Use the 22mm socket to turn the crank to the left and set the M8 bolts against the holes in the tool. Then get out, put the truck in 6th gear, parking brake on.
Get back under the truck and set up your trolley jack and breaker bar like this. The breaker bar must be as close to perpendicular with the bolt as possible.
The jack must be set up this way so that it can roll across the ground as the handle moves up. The cup will keep the end of the handle in place. Keep your body parts on the forward side of the sway bar while the breaker bar is under tension so that you don't get whacked if the bar slips out of the cup.
If the angle head on your breaker bar has a lot of slop in it (like mine did) you'll need to add one step. After you get everything set up, put the socket on the bolt so that the handle of the breaker bar is pointed straight down. Muscle the bar to the frame tab on the center crossmember. In the pic above, the frame tab is just to the left of my breaker bar on the center crossmember.
Get the end of the bar up and over the frame tab then run a screwdriver through one of the holes in the tab to hold the bar in place. Now, set up your jack and get the bolt off.
There was no crack to let me know that the bolt had come loose. The jack just got easy to lift and it was turning the bolt. After that you can remove the bolt with a ratchet driver. Make sure you use the torque wrench to tighten the bolt back up when you're done. The TRD S/C calls for 204ft.lbs.