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Crank Pulley Bolt Removal - Easy Way!

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Old 06-12-2010, 01:32 PM   #1
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Crank Pulley Bolt Removal - Easy Way!

I just removed the crank pulley bolt on my truck for the S/C install. This guide will grow a bit since some of the photos are on my camera at work.

You will need;
-22mm 1/2" drive socket.
-Breaker bar, 18-24" long, 1/2" drive
-10mm socket
-Crank pulley holder tool (see link below)
-Two M8 x 1.25 x 60mm bolts. Bolts must be all-thread.
-Six M8 x 1.25 nuts
-Flathead screwdriver
-Torque wrench, 1/2" drive
-Trolley jack with a cupped lift point and casters

This is the pulley holder tool I used.
http://www.amazon.com/OTC-UNIVERSAL-...369547&sr=8-10


First, use the flat blade screwdriver to remove 4 of the 5 plastic plugs that hold the rubber flap onto the frame on the inside of the passenger side fender well.

Remove your skidplate if you have one. My truck is lifted 3". You may need to get your truck off the ground a little if you're at stock height.

Then, use a 10mm socket to remove the one bolt for the bracket that holds the fluid line that is closest to the crank pulley. Its in front of my lower finger in this photo.


Set up your pulley holder tool like this before you start;

From left to right,
After the bolts are screwed into the pulley,
-The first nut is screwed against the pulley face to spread out any twisting forces. I bent my first set of bolts because I didn't do this.
-The second and third nuts are used to hold the tool perfectly perpendicular to the pulley bolt, and to keep the tool from shifting when the pulley bolt is torqued.

Put the truck in neutral. Put the 22mm socket on your breaker bar. Use the 22mm socket to turn the crank pulley so that the 2 holes are lined up vertically.

With your pulley holder tool set up, get under the truck and pass the handle end towards the opening on the passenger fenderwell. Lay the handle on top of the frame. Place the tool behind all the fluid lines except the one you removed the 10mm bolt to. The tool goes in front of this line. You can move the larger fluid line closest to the pulley out of the way since you removed the bolt.


Screw the M8 bolts in by hand until you feel them touch the engine case on the back of the pulley, then back them out a full turn. I did it this way because I didn't want to risk damaging the crank seal.


Screw the innermost 8mm nuts down against the pulley face. Then, use the 2 remaining 8mm nuts to hold the tool flush with the outer face of the pulley. Tighten these two nuts together so there is no room for the tool to slop around.


Use the 22mm socket to turn the crank to the left and set the M8 bolts against the holes in the tool. Then get out, put the truck in 6th gear, parking brake on.

Get back under the truck and set up your trolley jack and breaker bar like this. The breaker bar must be as close to perpendicular with the bolt as possible.


The jack must be set up this way so that it can roll across the ground as the handle moves up. The cup will keep the end of the handle in place. Keep your body parts on the forward side of the sway bar while the breaker bar is under tension so that you don't get whacked if the bar slips out of the cup.





If the angle head on your breaker bar has a lot of slop in it (like mine did) you'll need to add one step. After you get everything set up, put the socket on the bolt so that the handle of the breaker bar is pointed straight down. Muscle the bar to the frame tab on the center crossmember. In the pic above, the frame tab is just to the left of my breaker bar on the center crossmember.

Get the end of the bar up and over the frame tab then run a screwdriver through one of the holes in the tab to hold the bar in place. Now, set up your jack and get the bolt off.

There was no crack to let me know that the bolt had come loose. The jack just got easy to lift and it was turning the bolt. After that you can remove the bolt with a ratchet driver. Make sure you use the torque wrench to tighten the bolt back up when you're done. The TRD S/C calls for 204ft.lbs.
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Old 06-12-2010, 02:53 PM   #2
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Nice man. I wish I got that pulley holder tool when I swapped out my crank pulley it would have made my life a whole lot easier
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Old 06-17-2010, 08:25 PM   #4
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Are you kidding me?? LOL!! This is the hack-job way to do it.

Use a chainwrench, which is the proper tool for the job, and the tool all the dealer guys use.

http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/otc7401.html

If it's too tight (which somtimes they are) simply wedge the breaker bar against the frame, disable the ignition, and bump the starter. Works every time, and that way, you don't even need the chain wrench
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Old 06-17-2010, 08:37 PM   #5
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If it's too tight (which somtimes they are) simply wedge the breaker bar against the frame, disable the ignition, and bump the starter. Works every time, and that way, you don't even need the chain wrench [/quote]
x2
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Old 06-17-2010, 08:44 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbob View Post
If it's too tight (which somtimes they are) simply wedge the breaker bar against the frame, disable the ignition, and bump the starter. Works every time, and that way, you don't even need the chain wrench
x2[/QUOTE]

this.

this is the way i do it when it needs done.....easiest and fastest that i have found. a cahin wrench can fubar the pulley if you aint careful.
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Old 07-09-2010, 08:05 PM   #7
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You cant get a chain wrench around it anyways because of the timing marks indicator on the front cover.
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Old 09-12-2010, 10:04 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Krookz View Post
How about just an impact wrench...
Not enough room for mine. Its a cordless electric so a bit bulkier than most air tools. I think with the fan shroud and fan removed, you could probably fit an air impact between the crank pulley and radiator.
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Old 09-12-2010, 10:07 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Krookz View Post
How about just an impact wrench...
This is a better idea, my harbor freight couldnt pull it off though
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Old 09-12-2010, 04:42 PM   #10
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I have to remove the crank pulley to replace the engine oil seal behind it that started leaking this week!

The FSM instructs to remove the fan shroud, but it appears you guys didn't have to?

Once the pulley and belt is off you pop out the seal with a screwdriver, put the new seal in place and tap it in until its flush with the block. Don't really see the need to remove the shroud?

What fuse did you guys pull to disable the ignition?
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Old 09-12-2010, 06:44 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Krookz View Post
How about just an impact wrench...
Invest in an air compressor. 90 psi or better.

I was having a random thought after watching a Tundra commercial today. Commerical was talking about the forged steel crankshaft in the Tundra vs cast iron crankshaft....

Whats used on the 2nd Gen 2.7 Tacomas? Is it a forged crank as well or is it cast? Been trying to look around and haven't been to lucky.
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Old 09-12-2010, 11:37 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HondaGM View Post
If it's too tight (which somtimes they are) simply wedge the breaker bar against the frame, disable the ignition, and bump the starter. Works every time, and that way, you don't even need the chain wrench
x2[/QUOTE]

That's what I did with my 3000GT VR-4. Though I didn't bother disabling ignition lol.... it's only for accessories anyway, and I'm rather quick with the key.
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Old 02-18-2012, 12:04 PM   #13
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Sorry to res an old thread but I figure this is better than starting a new one. I notice that the pulley holder you used has pins that are included in the box and in one picture, you have them holding the pulley. Why did you choose the bolt/nut method instead?

Just curious as I am getting ready to do this myself and I ordered the same tool but I have had a really hard time finding the bolts you used without spending 20 bucks online to find them.
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Old 02-18-2012, 12:56 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spithead051 View Post
Sorry to res an old thread but I figure this is better than starting a new one. I notice that the pulley holder you used has pins that are included in the box and in one picture, you have them holding the pulley. Why did you choose the bolt/nut method instead?

Just curious as I am getting ready to do this myself and I ordered the same tool but I have had a really hard time finding the bolts you used without spending 20 bucks online to find them.
They'll be threaded in and a lot more secure, when you're working with this much torque it's wayyy better than waiting for that to slip out and damage something or yourself.

You should be able to find those or very similar length bolts at your local Ace Hardware... they're the best place to usually find metrics.
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Old 02-18-2012, 01:21 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kyouto42 View Post
They'll be threaded in and a lot more secure, when you're working with this much torque it's wayyy better than waiting for that to slip out and damage something or yourself.

You should be able to find those or very similar length bolts at your local Ace Hardware... they're the best place to usually find metrics.
I've checked Lowe's, Home Depot, and Advance Auto so far. Didn't think Ace Hardware would have that big of selection but I'll have to go take a look.
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Old 02-18-2012, 01:23 PM   #16
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I almost never find bolts I'm looking for at lowes or home depot, I think I've had maybe once out of 100 times I failed to find it at Ace
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Old 02-18-2012, 01:57 PM   #17
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Any other advice for doing this? I have an automatic so there's no way to put it into gear like you can with a stick because the torque converter won't engage when the truck is off.

This method seems to be the smartest and easiest way to remove this bolt without access to air/specialty tools. Bumping the starter just seems like a bad idea to me.
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Old 02-18-2012, 02:45 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spithead051 View Post
Any other advice for doing this? I have an automatic so there's no way to put it into gear like you can with a stick because the torque converter won't engage when the truck is off.

This method seems to be the smartest and easiest way to remove this bolt without access to air/specialty tools. Bumping the starter just seems like a bad idea to me.
Make sure you have a lot of quarters for the swear jar? :shrug:
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Old 02-18-2012, 02:55 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spithead051 View Post
Any other advice for doing this? I have an automatic so there's no way to put it into gear like you can with a stick because the torque converter won't engage when the truck is off.

This method seems to be the smartest and easiest way to remove this bolt without access to air/specialty tools. Bumping the starter just seems like a bad idea to me.
Lost count 30 years ago of how many times I removed the bolt that way.
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Old 02-18-2012, 09:34 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spithead051 View Post
Sorry to res an old thread but I figure this is better than starting a new one. I notice that the pulley holder you used has pins that are included in the box and in one picture, you have them holding the pulley. Why did you choose the bolt/nut method instead?

Just curious as I am getting ready to do this myself and I ordered the same tool but I have had a really hard time finding the bolts you used without spending 20 bucks online to find them.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kyouto42 View Post
They'll be threaded in and a lot more secure, when you're working with this much torque it's wayyy better than waiting for that to slip out and damage something or yourself.

You should be able to find those or very similar length bolts at your local Ace Hardware... they're the best place to usually find metrics.
Kyouto42 is correct - threading the bolts into the pulley and using the nuts to secure the tool is important. I didn't use the pins that were included with the tool because the largest one that would fit was too small. It would keep popping out of the pulley when any torque was applied.

You should be able to get the bolts you need at Home Depot, Lowes, or Ace Hardware. Its a M8 but I don't remember the thread pitch. You should be able to get all the hardware for well under $10.

Edit...read my own post. Thread pitch is 1.25 :P Ace Hardware stores in my area have the absolute best selection of random nuts and bolts, especially metric.
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