Need truck advice!

Disclaimer: I'm not flaming Toyota, I'm not bashing Tacoma's, and I'm not complaining for the sake of complaining. I'm not asking for opinions; etc, but I could use some solid advice on where others stand in regards to the following issues:

Since mile 400 I've had a driveline vibration in my truck. It shows up at 5-10mph, and again between 15-20. Its noticeable, especially under load. I also checked it in 4x4, and it goes away when engaged. I have 2600 miles on the truck now - and have spent all 2200 miles of it back and forth with Toyota Corporate over my claim that the truck has a problem.

Toyota's action: They have performed the common TSB (motor mounts, steering stabilizer, and rear leafs), but they refuse to replace any other parts, or perform any more work on the truck. I filed a claim, and after waiting 30 days they sent an Field Service Technician out to look at it. He acknowledged that there was a vibration, but said it was "not abnormal, and not excessive." A "common" vibration in Tacoma's. I disagree, and after research on here recognize other owners have had a similar problem. It seems the needle bearing is the point of interest for it, but getting Toyota Corporate to approve replacing the front differential is going to be nearly impossible.

My action: I've tried putting various heavy loads in the bed to check negative angle on the driveline. I've tried shimming the driveline with washers, gradually increasing from 1/16th inch to a full inch. No difference on either of these.

Additional problems with the truck: I've found that after highway use (around 50-60 miles at/above 60 mph) when I reduce my speed and head offroad (putting the truck into 4x4) the truck will then NOT come out of 4x4 when I get back onto pavement. I combat this by pulling onto the shoulder, putting it in park, and letting it cool down for 20-30 min. It will disengage when cool. This is unacceptable, but is very difficult for them to pinpoint without driving it 50...60 miles. I haven't seen this problem in other trucks on here, and a search didn't reveal anything.

I have dropped the dealership that has been performing most of the work/inspections on the truck and am trying another dealership's service department. I have contacted the dealership that sold me the truck (I purchased new, on order from them) and they are inspecting it this coming Monday. I have threatened arbitration if they are unable to repair the problems, but as we all know...that road is long and painful.

Has anyone gone another route? Test driven a demo vehicle and asked them to trade you for your problem truck? Has anyone gone into arbitration with Toyota and won? Have you won a lemon law case? I would love to hear others ideas and advice on this matter.

Last issue. I am completely unsatisfied with the ride quality of the truck. I understand its a light duty TRUCK, and is inherently going to ride like one; however, it is still very poor compared to anything in its class. Every bump is felt, and on the freeway, I feel as though the shocks become even less effective, with the tail of the truck hopping. I am running 265/70/R17 Michelin ATX AT2's at 29 rear, 31 front. I've chalk tested and know that those pressures are good as far as wear. I don't think that this is something I need to live with, and am attributing it to poor stock shocks and cheap rear leafs. Has anyone left their truck at, or very near the stock ride height and improved ride quality with aftermarket components? I hear positive things about the 5100's and OME's on lifted trucks, and I understand the Dakars are good...but if I want to remain close to stock...are there options?

I'm on the fence about if I can get this truck to be what I want it to be, or if I need to go look elsewhere for something different, while I still have a good bit of value in it. There are so many positive attributes that make it a great vehicle, and I understand that most of the problems I'm experiencing are fairly isolated to my particular Tacoma...

Like many other owners on here I'm a bit of an idealist, and that means when I pay $30k for a vehicle, I expect it to do what its said to do.

 

ECGS makes a new bearing for the vibes that go away in 4wd, lots of success stories I hear. As far as the ride, swap to 5100s front and rear and leave the fronts at the "0" setting, you will be stock ride height, the only thing that changes is the ride comfort. There is a TSB for the 15-20 mph vibes but you stated you had it done already, did they do it correctly is my only question.

 

blow up their social media and leave horrible reviews for the dealership you went to on every website you come across, alot of people do that and supposivly get a call the next day.

 

demand a the same model, but different vehicle

 

Large, thanks for the tip on the bearings. Any chance you have some reading material on it?

 

hey man I got the take off shudder as it's called and I have never driven 60 or 70 mph on the freeway in 4x4 maybe that's a cause for concern I don't know just trying to help and the rough ride IT IS NOT A CAR it drives and handles like a truck so a rougher ride is to be expected as for getting the dealer to fix so said issues good luck with that, Toyota can be dicks about stuff like that and if you don't like the Tacoma the Honda ridgeline sounds more your taste. Good luck man trying to figure it all out and SEMPER FI.

 

BenWA is doing a pretty good job of keeping up with his thread about the front diff vibes, plenty of info to read.

 

I've worked with Toyota Corporate through their claims and customer service departments, who I believe are the same people who respond to negative reviews from owners.

I would really like to avoid unnecessary slander of dealerships who have done "what they can" to help fix the problem. The main issue lies in the fact that Toyota Corporate has their hands tied on the warranty. In order to get repairs authorized under it, they have to call a "service hotline". The service hotline then says if the warranty will pay for their work/parts, or not. The hotlines refuse to authorize multiple expensive repairs on a single problem, because most states lemon laws are applicable after 3 repairs are attempted on the same problem. They then push you to a "claims manager" who tells you they will get a "Factory Service Technician" to come look at the vehicle. That takes several weeks for them to get out to look at the truck, and then they just say its normal. By doing that Toyota Corporate covers their own ass, because no repairs have been performed beyond the first failed attempt (so lemon law is difficult), and they can say that a "factory service technician" says the owner doesn't know what their vehicle is doing when you try to go into arbitration. Its clever.

The dealerships have nothing to do with the mess, really.

 

Rah.

Thanks for the tip on the Ridgeline. I like them, just not a huge fan of their look. At this point though, I might just go with one. My favorite smaller "truck" next to the Tacoma.

I didn't go 60-70 in 4x4. I am driving TO low maintenance hunting roads in 2HI, and then putting it into 4HI for the muddy bits. I then pull back out onto pavement and try to take it out of 4HI, and the truck wont. I usually pull of the road and let the truck cool down, and then it will disengage.

The ride quality I think is more of an issue of cheaper components. I have friends with the TRD's who's stock bilsteins seem to do a better job than my SR5's shocks. I assumed I would be replacing much of the stock suspension anyways when I lifted it up 1.5-2" down the road, so I went with the SR5. I am just wondering if people have had luck improving the ride with aftermarket components, while near stock ride height.

 

Well that damn sure sounds like a needle bearing problem for sure I got a 13' trd offroad 6 speed with 4000 on the odo and I love the ride of it it's way better than my 05 f150 I had and I understand getting an SR5 to build it up anyway that was smart but if you put an OME with the dakars on you will love the ride as for the vibes I agree Toyota should fix the problem but I don't even notice it anymore plus there is a member on here who has over 300,000 miles and I think it's an 06' anyways put an OME lift on it than if your still not happy trade her in.

 

You drive 50-60 miles on the hwy in 4 wheel drive then want to disengage it when you off road?
Best way to get something done is to call corperate and complain.

 

I'll reword my original post. I clarified this in my responses already.

I don't drive it on the highway in 4x4. I drive TO low maintenance roads in 2HI, and engage 4HI once there. When I get back onto pavement it will not come out of 4HI.

 

That is not normal. Should come right out of 4wd.

 

Keep in mind I don't have any of these, but these are the parts I'm considering putting on the truck once they wear out more and I get some funds to do so. I intend to keep the truck at stock or very close to stock height.

Four Bilstein 5100 shocks, fronts set at 0 with stock coils and . (In case the leaf pack sits higher than expected, maybe front Bilsteins set at 0.85 to compensate for some of the rake.)

However, I would think the Wheelers pack would be even rougher ride than what you have now as it has one extra leaf. You can also check out this guys review of the General spings.

 

You can do one thing that the dealer will probably not do, at least not without your prompting. Remove the front driveshaft and drive as you normally do. If the vibration disappears, then the cause is somewhere in the front drive system. Try a different driveshaft. If the vibration disappears, you can isolate it to the shaft (balance, joints, etc.) itself. If not in the driveshaft, then the front diff or axle shafts. Using simple substitution in this way, you can pinpoint the cause. Then, it can be fixed.

If you can get a rational service manager and/or shop foreman to go along with this, it will save you a lot of work and make them do their jobs. They probably will not do this on their own, but they may do it with your participation.

Mike

 

My truck doesn't have vibes, at least none that I notice, so I can't help you there.

I've done similar driving to yours (driving to my hunting lease and then engaging 4x4) and haven't had a problem with my truck shifting out of 4 wheel drive. I can remember once having to put my truck into neutral to get 4x4 to disengage, but it only happened once.

Bilstein 5100s would make a big difference in your ride quality, particularly in the rear. Even with the TRD bilsteins I thought the rear end of my truck felt sloppy. I didn't notice how much until I drove it with the 5100s on the front only. Once I replaced the rear shocks my truck handled 100x better. Since you have an SR5 you will have the 4 leaf pack so you can set front 5100s at 1.75 for level or .85 for a little rake, add the 5100s to your stock rear and have a much better ride.

 

At a shop I was working at we had an 09 gmc 1500 and a 11taco both of them shuddered at 20-45 a long story short both dealers had converted these to premium packages. 1500 had a shim for the tow package that made it do it and the taco had aftermarket tire package and most performance tires are angled for cornering and had to be high dpeed balanced and ground to specs.I dnt know much about the problem but working on over 2500 Toyotas in the past two years most Toyota vehicles especially tacos and corollas are bought by dealer and converted to sr5s or trds or s types and probally something with tire package or incorrect installation of a part for that package.

 

Thanks for the comments and suggestions. I'm going to pursue the issue further with Toyota Corporate and see if I can't get them to take some further action on sorting out the differential problems.

I am fairly confident that this is a needle bearing issue, and there is no way that I am going to pay out of pocket to fix it with over 33,000 miles left on my original warranty. Totally unacceptable.

I appreciate everyone casting in a vote and giving some solid advice on this.

We'll see what happens this Monday when I go in for my 7th trip to service departments in the last two months. If they refuse to fix it, I'm going into arbitration and am going to make Toyota take the truck back.

I'll probably move back to driving a Ridgeline then.