New Taco, New Member, Old Questions, How much lift?

Hello Guys,

Been reading as much as possible and taking in a lot of info. Lot of good threads guys, thanks & good looking out. So here is my conundrum....I want a sweet looking ride but I don't want to lose to much gas mileage. I really, really, really, like the look and the action you get with the 6" lift and the 35 in. tires but what I don't really like is the mileage I think I am going to get with that set up especially at $3 and some change per gallon. I think the 3" with some 33's looks pretty good but I am not sure if that gas mileage is that much better than the 35's. Truth be told I don't know a damn thing about any of it. What I am looking for is input on actual miles per gallon on each tire and hopefully some input on exactly which lift is the best route to go for each size. I read that the coil over springs are a good set up even on the 3" lift but they are a bit more expensive. Revtek does that other spring thing which is somewhat cheap but how does it work? Also read somewhere that blocks are not to good for your truck, any input on that? I really like the 35" tires but I have to say mileage really does mean quite a bit to me, I drive a lot. Oh before I forget I have a 2wd, prerunner, doublecab, trd, off road tacoma Any and all info would be greatly appreciated thanks folks.

 

This is going to hurt so brace yourself, leave it stock if you want good fuel mileage. The amount of money you would spend with the lift and tires, and all the extras included with said lifts, you're so far in the hole; gas is the last recoverable cost. That's if all goes well, I don't mean the sound like a stick in the mud, but I am stock and I sleep well at night. With that said; Ljackson would be a great guy to talk to about fixing a Pre-runner truck up, it is one of the nicest. Good luck and welcome to TW, sorry if this was a bummer, just my .02

 

Well, I'll chime in on my experience. I have a 3" lift with 33's (285/75 16's = 32.8"), and get about the same mpg as stock: 17-18mpg. Going by the odometer readings it says 16-17mpg, but then you have to account for the 7% difference in speed and distance readings caused by the tires. I've lost a little bit of torque, but since the lift has been on for over 30,000 miles it's broken in and I don't notice it anymore. If you go with 35's I would recommend regearing the rear to make up for the loss in torque.

I don't know much about Revtek other than a few people saying they aren't that good. If I recall they use a plastic/polymer spacer that could probably crack or compress over time. Toytec (which I have) uses billet aluminum so it's not going to do either.

If you go with a 6" lift keep in mind you may have to cut a frame cross member. All the 4wd kits I've seen require that, but I'm not sure about the 2wd's. So check into that and factor in the cost of install if it's required and you can't cut and weld it yourself.

A 3" lift from Toytec will run around $240 with the shipping for their "3" Pro Basic" kit with spacers and AAL's. If your truck has the upgraded 4 leaf rear suspension (or you get the TSB done to upgrade them) you can do it for less. Just buy the front spacers and a 1" or 1.5" block for the rear.

 

Oh, and most coil over kits will run you around $1-$2 k. I don't see much of a point in that unless you plan on offroading. The spacer lift is fine for roads, but a bit harsh over rough trails. And if you're going to be doing that then you'll probably want better rear leafs like Dakars or Deavers which around another $600 or so.

A better compromise would be OME springs and shocks. They are at least half the cost of CO's, don't require adjusting, and won't draw a lot of attention if you need warranty work done.

I plan on upgrading to those at some point and getting a set of Dakars. But then I off road a lot and the spacer/aal just isn't cutting it for me anymore. I just couldn't afford to go that route 2 years ago, and didn't know I would off road as much. Now I can justify the extra expense.

 

Agreed that a 3" lift would be better than a 6". I have Revtek front spacers and Toytec AALs and it isn't bad so far. The worst thing is the rear, 'cause the shock is extended so much, it's really harsh. I am going to get 5125s soon. So far I haven't lost any gas mileage, but I have 265s on it right now, so...

Go with the 3" Toytec coilover kit which is $300 (includes rear AALs or blocks).

 

Guys thanks once again for the input....Deep down in my heart I knew the 3" was the way to go I just couldn't say it out loud. One last thing...Is is always cheaper to buy the stuff online and eiter put it in yourself or have it done. Or should I just go to a local 4X shop and check into it there?

 

Well, I don't have any 4x4 shops near me, so that wasn't an option! I did my Toytec 3" lift by myself in a friend's barn with him and my wife standing around handing me tools, and making sure I didn't kill myself. I have no suspension experience, but was able to do it in about 5 hours. That was with numb fingers and 1 jack breaking. So I only paid for the lift, and renting a spring compressor (and I got that money back when I returned it). I would recommend at least having some garage/shop compress your front springs for you though.

 

Agree with pierce, have a shop put your coils on. It shouldn't cost more than $40. Then you can put the lift on yourself...it took me 2 1/2 hours (with someone else helping) and that was with removing the UCA on the left side because it was being stupid. Afterwards you should get it realigned which'll be between $60-70. If you have a shop put the entire thing, you'd pay $300 (lift), $40 (coils), $70 (alignment), and $100-400 (labor...some places, like stealers, will charge an arm and leg). You save a lot by putting it on yourself. Also find some members from forums around you that has a lift that'll help you. Most are really nice and they're willing to help out.

 

Here is the one last thought I had on the subject......If I put the 6" lift and still only went with the 33" tires then the mileage would stay the same as if I put the 3" lift with the 33's wouldn't it? I mean it's the tires that cause the bad mileage not the lift isn't it? Oh and by the way it's not so much the off roading that I am worried about its the snow. My sis is in Colorado Springs and it gets way deep in her neck of the woods. I get out to see her often and back roads and snow seem to be the best adventures.

 

hey baldtaco,

i have the 3" toytec lift, and LOVE IT!!! you could get shop compress the shocks for you, but everyone i called either said "huh??/ what???? uuuhhhhh you want us to ahhh????" and if i finally got through to them, it was way too much money $100-$200 so i borrowed the hand held compressor from autozone for free. and like tiger said, about the same mpg.

i have some added tips for doing it yourself to make it a little easier. and IMO, you wouldn't even have to do the AAL in the rear, i did, but the TBS rear leaf pack toyota will put on the rear for ya lifts the rear 1-1.5" and that is the same thing the AAL does, you could have the dealer do that and throw your spacers in up front and call it a day.

i LOVE the 6" lift, but with 35"s i haven't seen it, but i think 33's may look too small with a 6" lift...... don't know for sure tho.

 

There will be a difference, it may not be huge, but there will be. Your height will change the center of gravity and centripetal force cause more mass of air to have to be shifted on turns on moved on acceleration and deceleration. Having 33" tires will help as opposed to 35" tires, but you will still get less miles per gallon.

Also L_Jackson, the Toytec AALs level the truck with 2" lift while a 1-1.5" lift in the rear will not level it. Baldtaco, if you can, still go with coil overs rather than spacers.

 

Honestly, I would stick with a 3" lift and 33's. I've driven through a foot or more of snow. I only get stick in 4wd when it's packed around the frame. If you want to go through deeper snow, then I think you really should have gotten the 4wd. What I'm saying is if you lift it so the frame can clear 6 more inches of snow then the front wheels are going to get stuck. That's 6 more inches for them to push through so it'll probably just wall up in front and stop you without 4wd to help dig through it.

For the record, my spacers/AAL lifted my truck 4"/3.5" front/rear. I believe it's supposed to be 3"/2.5" front/rear. I haven't measured again since it's had time to settle.

 

i think i went to a dealer and measured mine against stock, and i don't remember the rear but it seems like front sat 4 - 4.5" higher, and 1-1.5 inches of that would have been the bigger tires.

 

It should be 3"/2.0" front/rear but you have 285s so it does raise it 1"...with my 265s mine was 2.75"/2.0" front/rear and I can't explain the front right now (top plate is one, etc).

 

Measurement was with stock tires. I didn't get the 285's for another couple of months.

Numbers on install day:

rear before lift with load: 35 1/4"
rear before lift without load: 36"
rear after lift without load: 38 3/4"
rear after lift with load: 38 1/4"

front before lift without load: 34 1/4"

front after lift without load: 38"

 

Thanks guys.....I know where to come with my next question.....

 

My measurements were close to that, but for some reason my front is 37.75"...