DIY LCA Ball Joint Replacement 2005+ Tacoma

This is for removal and replacement of a OE LCA BJ ONLY.
I am not covering the removal of OE components that are in the way of LCA BJ removal and installation.

For LCA bushing replacement see here http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/su...-replacement-2005-tacoma-4x4.html#post3691528

Tip: Aftermarket BJ's differ in size so if you have a used truck measure the ones on your truck before you purchase/borrow tools.

Tip: You should also purchase the replacement BJ or get the specifications for the one you plan on using so you can insure you have the proper ball joint press adapter.

<<<A front end alignment is highly recommended after you swap ball joints!!!>>>



Tools required:

Common Sense
1/2" Impact ratchet
1/2" Ratchet
Torch
Ball Joint press
7/8" Impact socket (1/2" drive) for above BJ press
<<Specialized Ball Joint adapters>> see the bottom of this post and the installation post for specifications and pictures
Flat head screwdriver
Hammer
Needle nose pliers or similar
Vise Grips
24mm impact socket (1/2" drive)
PB Blaster or similar
Mobil 1 or similar
Wire brush or similar
Gloves
Safety glasses
Fire extinguisher
Welders gloves
Welders mat
Freezer
External/Internal spring clip pliers

$24 Moog K80827 Front Lower Suspension Ball Joint for Toyota Tacoma

Moog K80827 Ball Joints or whatever brand you prefer







It's YOUR responsibility to wear the proper PPE and use common sense. This could prove dangerous if the tools required are used in manners they were not designed or intended for. Do not apply torque to the tools past their recommended limit.


Removal

Note: Lube all threaded bolts, nuts, BJ's, etc. before attempting to loosen or press them out.



Step 1: Remove cotter pin located at the bottom of the BJ. Both of mine were in between the nut. I flattened out the back of the cotter pins, locked a set of vise grips on them, and tapped them from behind with a hammer so the head protruded enough so that I could remove it with pliers. Throw cotter pin away - the new BJ will come with one - these are NOT to be re-used.





Step 2: Remove the BJ nut with a 24mm impact socket. Throw nut away - the new BJ will come with a nut - these are NOT to be re-used.





Step 3:
A; Remove spring clip from BJ with a hammer and flat head screwdriver. This clip may pop off at speed so be careful. Throw spring clip away - the new BJ will have one with it - these are NOT to be re-used.




B; Clean the top of the BJ with a wire brush then spray with PB.

Tip:I performed steps 1-3 and then left the PB to work overnight.




Step 4: Remove steering stop (AKA: Front lower ball joint attachment) by hitting the sides of the LCA and top of the BJ with a hammer. Do NOT hit the steering stop. It WILL be re-used. The steering stop should literally fall to the ground by hitting the LCA and if it doesn't see below.

Tip: A pickle fork can also be utilized to do this task. I chose to use as little "specialty" tools as possible so the typical DIY'er can perform this task with the least amount of money out of pocket.





Step 5:
A; Cut the BJ boot so hot gases can escape. Install ball joint press and specialized ball joint adapter.






B; Heat the LCA evenly around the BJ.


Tip: Be safe! Depending on what steps and parts you removed to start this project some parts may be in the way of heat or flame. Cover these items with a welders mat.


C; Using the impact wrench torque the ball joint until it sits flush with the top of the LCA (no pictures available - see below for reference).


D; Loosen the press and remove the top plate - Be careful - it is now extremely hot and you need to work fast for this step and "E".




E; Install the press directly on the center of the BJ and torque until it falls out - remember it's HOT!!!







Misc Pictures & Tools I used:


Specialized press adapter
The specifications for the adapter state it is: ID 2-7/16" X OD 2-3/4" X L 2-7/8"


OD




ID





Kit the specialized adapter came in (U.S. General Master Ball Joint Adapter Set).

The kit was purchased from Harbor Freight for $60. OTC supposedly sells the exact adapters required for late model Toyota's. I chose the HF kit so I could work on other vehicles as well.

Tip: If you need to shop around make sure you bring the dimensions of the old and new ball joint with you to insure proper adapter procurement.






OE BJ

OD





Rented BJ press (these can be found at Auto Zone, Pep Boys, etc.). You simply leave a deposit and get the entire deposit refunded once you return the tool in good working order.

Tip: Inspect the tool for cracks or damage before you pay for it or leave.





Misc:











Installation

Step 1: Freeze the new BJ for approximately an hour.

Tip: You can also heat the BJ seat on the LCA like I did when I removed the BJ's or install the new BJ immediately after removing the old one while the seat is still hot. I chose not to go that route because I had thrown a new coat of primer/paint on my LCA's after removing all the rust and bushings from them.



Step 2: Lube up the BJ, BJ seat, and spring clip seat.







Step 3: Install press and fittings. Now press them using an impact ratchet.

Tip: If you do not center the press perfectly the BJ will not seat evenly. Take the time to be precise like I did and they will go in on the first try.



Top collar OD:


Bottom collar OD:





Tip: I knew I had the BJ fully seated when Mobil-1 stopped squirting out from the bottom.





Step 4: Install the spring clip with spring clip pliers





Note: Moog does not provide threads in the BJ for the provided zerks and the zerks are not self tapping = this sucks. I got more frustrated threading the zerks than anything else. Poor design IMO.


Overview: I would consider the BJ removal/installation a simple - moderate job for first timers like myself. With the proper tools I would assume this specific task would take no longer then and hour for both sides if you remove the OE BJ and immediately insert the new BJ while the seat is hot.

 

Nice work!! this should be a sticky

 

Thank you for this write-up! Going to replace my BJs while I'm replacing my wheel bearings.

 

WTF........Why are the pictures in here screwed up? Someone put a flipped 1st gen and a mall crawling 2nd gen in here somehow......hmmmmm

Ill fix it tonight maybe.

 

lol

Glad I've got uniballs

 

They still go bad like a BJ. My TC uppers only lasted 9 months. FK Stainless balls....FTW! Those TC chrome balls suck in the salt belt.

 

I know I just changed my lower uniballs yesterday. But its way easier than this. Couple wacks of the BFH and they're out

 

Need 2 change mine soon

 

and fixed


7 months later

 

WTF..... pics keep changing

 

I was wondering about that, lol. I need to do my LCA bushings and ball joints soon and was looking for pictures to make sure I do it all right.

 

Ill have them fixed tonight. Ill also add part numbers for a couple different brands of BJ's.

I downloaded them last night to Photobucket and was getting ready to fix it, but getting some ass was more important

 

Fix the pics Lazy ass

 

I downloaded them...just never fixed them.

Ill pm you a link to my account if you want? Let me know today otherwise Ill be in VT for the next week camping.

 

No worries , I think my questions are answered

 

Fix yer damn thread

 

I gave you the link to my photobucket so stop bitching...

Maybe if the pics stopped being changed by the powers above I wouldn't have to keep fixing it.

Think it's right on TTORA, but I'm not sure.

 

TTORA

 

So many naked guys , so few LCA pics

 

I'm gonna kick your ass you stinky WC hippy