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2.7L engine knock

Discussion in '4 Cylinder' started by wgerow, Dec 9, 2010.

  1. Feb 16, 2011 at 3:53 PM
    #41
    george3

    george3 Well-Known Member

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    You have a 2.7. The oil pan heater is the way I went after investigation. The engine block heater is the way to go with the 6cyl. I don't remember a easy to use engine block heater for the 2.7. Maybe there is one but I didn't find it.
    Do a search on TW. There are a lot of threads from Canadian and Canadian US border state members.
     
  2. Feb 16, 2011 at 4:18 PM
    #42
    motoretro

    motoretro Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the info, will check into it.

    Motoretro


     
  3. Feb 27, 2011 at 8:06 PM
    #43
    96greengoblin

    96greengoblin Active Member

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    well, in the last week i ran a tank of regular with a bottle of lucas top end lubricator and injection cleaner, as well as a tank with a bottle of chevron techron and the knock has pretty much dissapeared. might be worth a shot. i plan on using 1 of the 2 every few months or so.
     
  4. Mar 5, 2011 at 6:30 PM
    #44
    TheTourist

    TheTourist Member

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    I've contacted my local dealership and they say they have a block heater for my 2001 2.7L in stock. They're a bit more shady on telling me where it fits into the block. I also can't see under there very well without taking skid plates off and all that. I know the plugs are in different spots on different engines. Can anyone tell me where they are on the 01 2.7Ls, roughly? ie) back bottom, front bottom, etc. Thanks for any help.
     
  5. Mar 5, 2011 at 7:00 PM
    #45
    andy2003

    andy2003 Well-Known Member

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    Man I let mine warm up everytime I leave it might seem like a pain in the ass but its never done me wrong. Yeah might use a little gas but 15 min warm up in the mornings is like a apple a day keeping the doc away. I worked as an outside salesman for a electrical company and they furnished a truck for four years or 150 thousand miles whatever came first. So my first truck I bought through them was a 98 sr5 4x4 2.7 ext cab 5spd I bought it after it hit 148 and they were going to have me trade it in for a new one. The only thing I had done to it was belts at 120 and a starter at 135. Then I bought a 04 sr5 4x4 2.7 ext cab same deal 150 thousand in less than three years on the beast. One year I put 57thousand on it, and these were hard miles image if someone bought you a yota and you didnt pay for any maintence or gas insurance nothing needless to say I ran the dog shit out of both these trucks!!! Coal mine roads Hollars loaded to the max in the bed beat and banged all the way home loved every second of it. Moral of the story I warmed each of these trucks up every morning for at least 15 mins usually up to normal operating temp and never had one major mechanical problem. Warm your beast up youll have no issues!!heres the 98 i sold it with 174 on it and still had orignal clutch and taught my old lady to drive a 5spd with 155 on it.
    [​IMG]
     
  6. May 18, 2011 at 7:06 PM
    #46
    trucklover63

    trucklover63 Active Member

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    My 2.7l did this when it was still under powertrain. Two different Toyota dealers blew me off,telling me that it was normal. It finally got so bad that I had another dealer dis-assemble the engine. The pistons were scored on the "skirts" and the oil rings were seized. This engine had nothing but Valvoline with the factory filters every 3,000 miles. Don't believe it when they tell you it is normal.It may be common,but piston slap is never normal and not causing more wear.
     
  7. May 19, 2011 at 6:24 AM
    #47
    stephan305

    stephan305 Active Member

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    2 1/2 skyjacker lift k/n cold air filter
    toyota went above and beyond for me and my 99 prerunner.my knock went away went i change my egr valve and decarbed my throttle body.change the oil every 3500-4000.castro gtx with a fram oil filter,my truck has 130.000miles and still runs like new.lots of power for a 2.7,really the best truck i have ever bought,my freinds laughed at me when i bought it.4.09 a gallon.who's laughing now!!
     
  8. Nov 6, 2011 at 8:33 AM
    #48
    ecoterragaia

    ecoterragaia Everyone lives downstream.

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    My '06 with with 27,000 miles has some knocking when temperatures <45°F. I've been worrying about the fact that the engine idle shoots up to ~2100 rpms on a cold start. It rises to about 1200 rpms until the oil light goes out within the first split second of starting, then continues on its way up to 2100 and stays there for about 10 seconds until the air injection motor shuts off (about 10 seconds). I change the oil every 3000 miles with Mobile 1 5W-30 and a Toyota brand (Denso) filter from the dealership.

    Is it worth getting an oil pan heater in such a mild climate (Virginia)? In the dead of winter I have seen temperatures as low as 5°F, but for the most part it doesn't get colder than the lower 20's for most of the winter.
     
  9. Nov 6, 2011 at 8:49 AM
    #49
    george3

    george3 Well-Known Member

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    I switched to Syn and put in a oil pan heater. Problem solved. 30F was when mine started ticking. I'm in NJ.
     
  10. Nov 7, 2011 at 4:41 AM
    #50
    Mod

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    Since my last post my 99 SR5 has hit 180K,,and guess what??,,no more engine knock. Hmmmm, should I be SCARED!!:eek:

    It's running really good right now,,and you know what they say about that.
     
  11. Nov 21, 2011 at 5:18 PM
    #51
    2004TacomaSR5

    2004TacomaSR5 Nemesis Prime

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    I have found that using premium gas makes the knock go away
     
  12. Nov 21, 2011 at 5:34 PM
    #52
    SOSHeloPilot

    SOSHeloPilot My 1st Muscle Car

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    Missing My Last Tacoma --- Had 11 Toyota trucks in the past and many other Toyota cars too.
    .
    FWIW ... whatever piece of equipment that I start when it is cold ... I give it a little time (depending on how cold) to warm up and get some oil circulating.
    .
     
  13. Nov 24, 2011 at 1:02 PM
    #53
    gshephard

    gshephard Member

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    Glen
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    My Tacoma with 230,000 miles would knock under moderate to heavy acceleration(guilty). Several things improved it, lucas fuel additive and premium gas, but did not cure it. Replaced the egr transducer which cured it immediately. This is an expensive part, greater than $100, but the cure makes sense. Since the egr lets exhaust gas into the cylinders to keep the combustion temperure low, when it failed, the combustion temperatures were higher resulting in pre-ignition.

    I'd appreciate hearing about other's experiences.

    Thanks,

    Glen
     
  14. Jan 2, 2012 at 12:12 PM
    #54
    trucklover63

    trucklover63 Active Member

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    toyota's piece of crap 2.7 piston slap...they will tell you it is normal..It will run forever if you want to listen to it forever..
     
  15. Jan 2, 2012 at 4:50 PM
    #55
    johnny 5

    johnny 5 Well-Known Member

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    All of our GM trucks at work have piston slap 03 05 08 10 all 6.0 gas engines on cold start. My last truck Ford Ranger 2.5 had it brand new and still did it at 100,000 when I traded it in for the Tacoma. My 07 Tacoma 4.0 has it also only in cold weather goes away when warm. I think it is common in alluminum motors.
     
  16. Jan 3, 2012 at 5:35 PM
    #56
    trucklover63

    trucklover63 Active Member

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    The manufacturers have almost eliminated the piston skirts and decreased the tension on the oil rings to decrease resistance and improve gas mileage..the pistons have less support causing them to rock and knock until expanding when warmed up..Sure,it runs but its also wearing piston and cylinder while it does this...Piston slap may be normal,but it is never harmless...A Toyota service manager told me that under warranty they have been replacing shortblocks to fix...The squeaky wheel gets the grease as far as customers go..
     
  17. Jan 1, 2016 at 9:39 PM
    #57
    TRVLR500

    TRVLR500 Well-Known Member

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    Reviving and old thread. My 2004 2.7 had a little piston slap at about 130,000 miles. I only heard it twice an for only about 1 second. I switched over to Amsoil 10-30 signature and haven't heard it since. What I have been worried about is that we have had temps down to -25 lately and I have been wondering if the 10-30 might be too thick but so far the truck starts every morning (although it does turn over slower) and there are no knocks or piston slap. The oil pressure light goes off just as quick once it starts as well. Pure synthetic is quite a bit better at handling frigid temps than dino so I guess the 10 weight part of the 10-30 is OK. The 5-30 is just Toyota bending to the ridiculous CAFE standards. I think.

    I, however, have always warmed up my vehicles before I drive off. Whether I'll be late for work or not my engine comes first. In really cold temps like this I won't put it into gear until the needle hits the cold mark and the majority of the time I don't take off unless it's almost to full operating temp. I have a scan gauge and unless coolant temp is at LEAST 120 degrees I don't move the vehicle. Even then I drive slow for the first few miles to the interstate and then only do 55 or 60 for the next 5 miles or so. Then I speed up to 75mph. Heavier oil does reduce piston slap and it seems to have worked in my case.

    I do see a pan heater in the very near future to be on the safe side.
     
  18. Jan 1, 2016 at 11:13 PM
    #58
    Mod

    Mod Well-Known Member

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    Wow, forgot all about this one. 226K now.

    "Only heard it twice and for 1 second".

    I would say you might have got a crappy blob of winter fuel pass thru the system if it was that brief. Timing getting yanked due to knock sensor or some shit. Or a bad load of plain ol cheap gas.

    What were the outside temps when it happened?,, or am I seeing the -25° as that?.

    Would definitely be pan AND BATTERY heating by now,,with -25° on the thermo.
     
  19. Jan 1, 2016 at 11:17 PM
    #59
    Speedytech7

    Speedytech7 Toyota Cult Ombudsman

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    I've done a mod or two
    I have the knock as well when its super cold and I also have a block heater. But I've never plugged the heater in, I have no clue if it even works.
     
  20. Jan 2, 2016 at 8:07 PM
    #60
    TRVLR500

    TRVLR500 Well-Known Member

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    It was actually warm when I heard that noise. Probably around 70 degrees. I never run cheap gas in my vehicles but you never know. Anyone can get a bad load. I am going to get a pan and battery heater. It's been well below zero here at night for the last two weeks and it doesn't get above 15 or so in the daytime. The truck turns over slower but it starts, no rattles or knocks and the oil light goes out immediately. I'd say I am running the 10-30 at the very lowest temp it can be run at. Right on the edge but it is a full synthetic so I'm not too worried.
     

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