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Old 05-10-2011, 08:29 PM   #41
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might have to get a new clutch haha
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Old 05-17-2011, 07:39 PM   #42
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aight so finally got around to doing this write up, sorry it took so long but here it is . . . . .

Install time was about 6 1/2 hrs. with a lunch break and a few beers.

I have a 4wd so obviously some of the things might be different if you have a 2wd.

First off, if you're like me i just use what i got in the garage and make shit happen so heres a quick tool list:

* 2 floor jacks (one for the tranny, one for the motor) and a few wood blocks
* socket set (really just a 12, 14 and 17 is about all you use, 10 for min cab bolts, oh and a swivel socket along with an extension or two)
* philips head screw driver
* alignment tool (i took the inside of a 10 in 1 screwdriver and put a craftsman 19 socket over it, perfect fit)
* some joint grease

First, while your clean, go ahead and remove the shifter from inside the truck. To remove the center console, open the center console box and remove the carpet, there should be 2 or 3 bolts there. Then pull out the cup holder (it literally just pulls up) and there are 4 philips head screws. The back half of the console should come out now. Remove the shift knob then pull the rest of the console up and out.

The shifter boot has 4 screws holding it down, remove those and the boot. Then the shifter plate has 4 10mm bolts, remove those and pull the shifter completely out.








Next remove the front and rear driveshafts, they should come out pretty easy considering tha truck isnt very old. There is 4 bolts per side of each drive shaft.








Now go ahead and set the jacks. I put 1 on the middle part of the transmission (i had to use a few wood blocks to reach it) and the other on the oil pan of the motor (i drilled a hole in the wood for the drain plug to fit inside)








Then go ahead and unclip the clips from the transfer case, there should be 5 along with one mid way down the tranny







Next remove the slave cylinder, i think its 2 bolts holding it on, and just bend it up out the way






Next remove the transmission crossmember from tha tranny and the truck, its 2 bolts on either side of the frame and 2 bolts per side of the tranny








Then remove the transmission bolts. There should be 11 in all. 1 does nothing but hold an exhaust bracket in and 2 hold the starter in.






Go ahead and lower the tranny down a little bit. Before you start to pull on it, unclip the wire harness from the top of the tranny, there are a few spots.


You will have to work a little bit to get the tranny of the dowel pins it slides into but once you get it out you should see this . . .




I think there is 6 bolts that hold the clutch one, remove them and slide the clutch off its dowel pins. Now this would be the time to have your flywheel resurfaced if you were going to. I didnt do it cause mine looked fine, it had a small hot spot but i felt comfortable with it. Check and make sure the inside bearing has grease on it, if not regrease it. Now take the new clutch and set it up on the dowel pins and go ahead and put the bolts in without tightening them down all the way. Use your alignment tool to get the disk centered and tighten the bolts up






Next remove the throw out bearing. There is a clip that slides around the bearing and over the forks of the clutch fork. Make sure to pay attention how it was clipped on before removing it. Take off the old one and grease the shaft then put the new one on the same way.






Now you just have to put it all back together. Do everything just like the teardown, if it helps put all your bolts and nuts back in the holes as soon as you remove them so they dont get lost. Once you get everything installed, go ahead and bleed the clutch to insure there is no air in the lines. And you're done. Generally clutch break in 500 - 1000 miles or you can say what i say "fuck it" just drive that bitch how you always do and it will break in to your driving style.
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Old 05-17-2011, 08:15 PM   #43
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Great write up man! Excellent. I finally got to drive mine. It catches a little high for my liking, but none the less a solid clutch.
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Old 06-04-2011, 02:26 PM   #47
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How is the clutch doing?
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Old 06-04-2011, 03:45 PM   #48
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Would adjusting the clutch pedal height to factory specified minimum measurement move the actual clutch take-up friction point closer to floorboard? Just a thought...

Motoretro
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Old 06-05-2011, 08:51 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigRedToy View Post
How is the clutch doing?
clutch is awesome! Its got a really good pop to it when it engages, not so much to where you cant ease into a gear but its a lot harder to ride the clutch! And the best part, IT DOES'NT SLIP!!!! haha but im def very pleased with it. If anyone plans on doing a clutch install it is well worth it!!! and another suggested thing to get with it is a URD short shifter. Besides a supercharger these two are the best mods as far as driver feel goes for the 2TR in my opinion. Just some food for thought.
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Old 06-06-2011, 06:52 AM   #50
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thanks for the write up!
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Old 06-12-2011, 04:13 PM   #51
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I just got the LCEngineering clutch Pro series and love it!

Feels exactly like stock and just feels really responsive: http://www.toyotacatalog.net/M1WebGe...E-94A9FED50680
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Old 06-12-2011, 04:43 PM   #52
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FYI----

URD Carries a complete line of clutches for the 2TR from mild to wild!!!

G
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Old 06-12-2011, 07:10 PM   #53
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How is the friction take-up point, Closer to floor board than stock? Is the engagement smoother?

thanks, Motoretro

Quote:
Originally Posted by 08pretaco View Post
I just got the LCEngineering clutch Pro series and love it!

Feels exactly like stock and just feels really responsive: http://www.toyotacatalog.net/M1WebGe...E-94A9FED50680
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Old 04-12-2012, 09:04 PM   #54
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Random but did you not seal the spacer plate and shifter assembly in with rtv or anything when you installed the short shifter, or is it just really cleaned up in that beginning picture?
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Old 04-13-2012, 07:27 AM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BuzzardsGottaEat View Post
Random but did you not seal the spacer plate and shifter assembly in with rtv or anything when you installed the short shifter, or is it just really cleaned up in that beginning picture?
Yeah I cleaned it up good so no residue would fall down in tha tranny. Def use that silicone when putting that spacer in, otherwise u will be frequently adding trans fluid
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Old 04-13-2012, 07:54 AM   #56
"Pick up some speed.. You'll make it."
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I already installed mine ha I just saw that picture and thought, man this guy seems to really know what he's doing, better than me anyway, but it's worth asking just in case. . .

Cheers mate

Liking the mods thus far, we have similar taste I think
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Old 04-13-2012, 12:59 PM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BuzzardsGottaEat View Post
I already installed mine ha I just saw that picture and thought, man this guy seems to really know what he's doing, better than me anyway, but it's worth asking just in case. . .

Cheers mate

Liking the mods thus far, we have similar taste I think
thanks man, yeah that short shifter is badass aint it!? I cant even drive another stick shift without immediately going "Damn my clutch and shifter are way better then this one"

and i like that 2012 man, black is def the hardest color on these trucks
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Old 04-13-2012, 01:52 PM   #58
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Hardest to keep clean ha I've thought about switching out my clutch but after the short shifter I'm definitely happy with the improved driving experience for now.

Its just the gearing of the 6 speed transmission that irks me
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Old 04-13-2012, 01:54 PM   #59
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If it were my truck, I would replace the pilot bearing (since you're already in there), and remove/clean/lube the fork. The spot where the slave cylinder pushes the fork is where some of the squeak comes from. Some copper anti-seize will keep new rust at bay.
Otherwise, nice job and write up!
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Old 04-13-2012, 01:55 PM   #60
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