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Better clutch for 2TR

Discussion in '4 Cylinder' started by allmotorrex, Mar 8, 2011.

Page 4 of 10
  1. May 23, 2012 at 8:12 AM
    #61
    Ghost848

    #61
    Ghost848 Well-Known Member

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    OME + Dakers, 285/75R16 Nitto Trail Grapplers, ARB Bumper, Columbia overland Dual battery, Super winch,CC stage 4 clutch, bestop supertop, URD TO bearing, BHLM headlights, Cruisin offroad rear bumper, Harrop front E-locker.
    SUBBED!!!
     
    Ghost848, May 23, 2012
    #61
  2. Jun 7, 2012 at 6:54 PM
    #62
    jassco

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    jassco Well-Known Member

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    I was ready to just buck up and do this, but after telling a dealer the deal they agreed with me. They changed it at 24,000 miles for tsb 0066-11. The clutch is great now and strong.

    Of note - the tsb also changed the clutch turnover spring which is in the pedal. My clutch used to grab loose at the top of the stroke and chatter a lot. It is now a smooth pedal stroke and starts grabbing about half way through. I love the feel and it shows my clutch was bad from the first time i drove it off the lot.

    The turnover spring is a different part number shown as 90949-03132, older part is 90949-03136.
     
    jassco, Jun 7, 2012
    #62
  3. Jun 10, 2012 at 8:43 AM
    #63
    AndrewFalk

    #63
    AndrewFalk Science!

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    Very interesting. If I don't shift into 2nd very slowly I get noticeable chatter and bucking from the clutch...but still my clutch isn't slipping. I tried some pretty hard downshifts and it grabs just fine. I think the pressure plate is just too weak on these trucks.
     
    AndrewFalk, Jun 10, 2012
    #63
  4. Jun 10, 2012 at 4:14 PM
    #64
    allmotorrex

    #64
    allmotorrex [OP] Grove St. Fab

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    NWF crawlbox, 5.29s, rear Detriot, front Harrop, 37" SXIIs, 17x9" KMC Grenade Crawl beadlocks, Dirt King 3.5" LT kit with King shocks, Fox 12" smooth body RR, BAMF shock kit, AP 3" springs, ext. brake lines, custom 1 piece driveshaft with .135 wall tubeing, GSF front rock crawling bumper, GSF rear bumper, Relentless Fab ifs skid, BAMF k/o sliders, X2O 10K comp. winch, TP glass fenders, OKled 20"bar, EBS dimpled/slotted rotors, EBS green pads, custom K&N CAI, LCE headers, FM Super 44 w/h turn down, URD MAF, Spec clutch, LCE heavy flywheel, URD short shifter, TMPer M1 Abrams shift knob, Amsoil oil, Cobra 75wxst w/h 4' firestix, Grillcraft, FXR TRS, T1 eyelids, custom ADV Monster 60 lights, bed lights, speedo light mod, Glow Shift volt/oil pres gauges, Glow shift 2g column pod, Optima yellow tops dual battery setup w/h IBS system, Pioneer DEH-P7200HD head unit, Pioneer 600W 4ch & 350w 2ch amps for doors and sub, Wet Oakle covers
    mine was always very noticeable if i rode the clutch a little bit coming out of first, especially if i took off kinda fast, not dumping the clutch but giving it more gas and riding out the clutch, basically how like bikers take off, it would slip real bad. And while in 4wd i noticed it slipping all the time
     
    allmotorrex, Jun 10, 2012
    #64
  5. Jun 11, 2012 at 7:41 AM
    #65
    Ghost848

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    Ghost848 Well-Known Member

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    OME + Dakers, 285/75R16 Nitto Trail Grapplers, ARB Bumper, Columbia overland Dual battery, Super winch,CC stage 4 clutch, bestop supertop, URD TO bearing, BHLM headlights, Cruisin offroad rear bumper, Harrop front E-locker.
    Thanks for your post helped me along my journey..
     
    Ghost848, Jun 11, 2012
    #65
  6. Jun 11, 2012 at 10:29 AM
    #66
    allmotorrex

    #66
    allmotorrex [OP] Grove St. Fab

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    Memphis 901
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    NWF crawlbox, 5.29s, rear Detriot, front Harrop, 37" SXIIs, 17x9" KMC Grenade Crawl beadlocks, Dirt King 3.5" LT kit with King shocks, Fox 12" smooth body RR, BAMF shock kit, AP 3" springs, ext. brake lines, custom 1 piece driveshaft with .135 wall tubeing, GSF front rock crawling bumper, GSF rear bumper, Relentless Fab ifs skid, BAMF k/o sliders, X2O 10K comp. winch, TP glass fenders, OKled 20"bar, EBS dimpled/slotted rotors, EBS green pads, custom K&N CAI, LCE headers, FM Super 44 w/h turn down, URD MAF, Spec clutch, LCE heavy flywheel, URD short shifter, TMPer M1 Abrams shift knob, Amsoil oil, Cobra 75wxst w/h 4' firestix, Grillcraft, FXR TRS, T1 eyelids, custom ADV Monster 60 lights, bed lights, speedo light mod, Glow Shift volt/oil pres gauges, Glow shift 2g column pod, Optima yellow tops dual battery setup w/h IBS system, Pioneer DEH-P7200HD head unit, Pioneer 600W 4ch & 350w 2ch amps for doors and sub, Wet Oakle covers
    Yes sir! ;)

    Just tryin to give back a little bit
     
    allmotorrex, Jun 11, 2012
    #66
  7. Oct 17, 2012 at 5:26 PM
    #67
    2004TacomaSR5

    #67
    2004TacomaSR5 Nemesis Prime

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    Very good writeup, I figured being a newer vehicle a repair like this would take a certified technician, but it is hardly any different than the clutch I put in my 67 F250, very good writeup. This thread should be stickied imo. Either way, will def keep this thread bookmarked in case I need to change mine down the road.
     
    2004TacomaSR5, Oct 17, 2012
    #67
  8. Oct 19, 2012 at 6:11 AM
    #68
    The Phoenix

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    The Phoenix Member

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    I don't believe that the turnover spring is of particularly high importance. Its job is just to get the pedal out of the way so it doesn't "lean on" the master cylinder rod. Maybe the newer part is a little smoother, but the real work is done by the pressure plate.
     
    The Phoenix, Oct 19, 2012
    #68
  9. Oct 19, 2012 at 2:04 PM
    #69
    allmotorrex

    #69
    allmotorrex [OP] Grove St. Fab

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    Gideon
    Memphis 901
    Vehicle:
    08 SR5 4wd 2.7
    NWF crawlbox, 5.29s, rear Detriot, front Harrop, 37" SXIIs, 17x9" KMC Grenade Crawl beadlocks, Dirt King 3.5" LT kit with King shocks, Fox 12" smooth body RR, BAMF shock kit, AP 3" springs, ext. brake lines, custom 1 piece driveshaft with .135 wall tubeing, GSF front rock crawling bumper, GSF rear bumper, Relentless Fab ifs skid, BAMF k/o sliders, X2O 10K comp. winch, TP glass fenders, OKled 20"bar, EBS dimpled/slotted rotors, EBS green pads, custom K&N CAI, LCE headers, FM Super 44 w/h turn down, URD MAF, Spec clutch, LCE heavy flywheel, URD short shifter, TMPer M1 Abrams shift knob, Amsoil oil, Cobra 75wxst w/h 4' firestix, Grillcraft, FXR TRS, T1 eyelids, custom ADV Monster 60 lights, bed lights, speedo light mod, Glow Shift volt/oil pres gauges, Glow shift 2g column pod, Optima yellow tops dual battery setup w/h IBS system, Pioneer DEH-P7200HD head unit, Pioneer 600W 4ch & 350w 2ch amps for doors and sub, Wet Oakle covers
    Hahaha that's awesome!!
     
    allmotorrex, Oct 19, 2012
    #69
  10. Nov 23, 2012 at 10:19 AM
    #70
    allmotorrex

    #70
    allmotorrex [OP] Grove St. Fab

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    Memphis 901
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    08 SR5 4wd 2.7
    NWF crawlbox, 5.29s, rear Detriot, front Harrop, 37" SXIIs, 17x9" KMC Grenade Crawl beadlocks, Dirt King 3.5" LT kit with King shocks, Fox 12" smooth body RR, BAMF shock kit, AP 3" springs, ext. brake lines, custom 1 piece driveshaft with .135 wall tubeing, GSF front rock crawling bumper, GSF rear bumper, Relentless Fab ifs skid, BAMF k/o sliders, X2O 10K comp. winch, TP glass fenders, OKled 20"bar, EBS dimpled/slotted rotors, EBS green pads, custom K&N CAI, LCE headers, FM Super 44 w/h turn down, URD MAF, Spec clutch, LCE heavy flywheel, URD short shifter, TMPer M1 Abrams shift knob, Amsoil oil, Cobra 75wxst w/h 4' firestix, Grillcraft, FXR TRS, T1 eyelids, custom ADV Monster 60 lights, bed lights, speedo light mod, Glow Shift volt/oil pres gauges, Glow shift 2g column pod, Optima yellow tops dual battery setup w/h IBS system, Pioneer DEH-P7200HD head unit, Pioneer 600W 4ch & 350w 2ch amps for doors and sub, Wet Oakle covers
    Clutch is doing great. No slipping as of yet. Although I'm contemplating on putting a stronger clutch in. This clutch seems to have a lot better gripping power then stock but has the pedal feel of being stock. I kinda miss my 6 puck unsprung clutch in my Honda so I'm thinking of goin up to an even stronger pressure plate :D
     
    allmotorrex, Nov 23, 2012
    #70
  11. Nov 23, 2012 at 11:00 AM
    #71
    allmotorrex

    #71
    allmotorrex [OP] Grove St. Fab

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    NWF crawlbox, 5.29s, rear Detriot, front Harrop, 37" SXIIs, 17x9" KMC Grenade Crawl beadlocks, Dirt King 3.5" LT kit with King shocks, Fox 12" smooth body RR, BAMF shock kit, AP 3" springs, ext. brake lines, custom 1 piece driveshaft with .135 wall tubeing, GSF front rock crawling bumper, GSF rear bumper, Relentless Fab ifs skid, BAMF k/o sliders, X2O 10K comp. winch, TP glass fenders, OKled 20"bar, EBS dimpled/slotted rotors, EBS green pads, custom K&N CAI, LCE headers, FM Super 44 w/h turn down, URD MAF, Spec clutch, LCE heavy flywheel, URD short shifter, TMPer M1 Abrams shift knob, Amsoil oil, Cobra 75wxst w/h 4' firestix, Grillcraft, FXR TRS, T1 eyelids, custom ADV Monster 60 lights, bed lights, speedo light mod, Glow Shift volt/oil pres gauges, Glow shift 2g column pod, Optima yellow tops dual battery setup w/h IBS system, Pioneer DEH-P7200HD head unit, Pioneer 600W 4ch & 350w 2ch amps for doors and sub, Wet Oakle covers
    Damn son!!!! Lol I aint got the power or the right strength components for that! Haha I was just thinking like a stage 3 pressure plate and maybe a sprung 6 puck
     
    allmotorrex, Nov 23, 2012
    #71
  12. Nov 23, 2012 at 11:43 AM
    #72
    allmotorrex

    #72
    allmotorrex [OP] Grove St. Fab

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    NWF crawlbox, 5.29s, rear Detriot, front Harrop, 37" SXIIs, 17x9" KMC Grenade Crawl beadlocks, Dirt King 3.5" LT kit with King shocks, Fox 12" smooth body RR, BAMF shock kit, AP 3" springs, ext. brake lines, custom 1 piece driveshaft with .135 wall tubeing, GSF front rock crawling bumper, GSF rear bumper, Relentless Fab ifs skid, BAMF k/o sliders, X2O 10K comp. winch, TP glass fenders, OKled 20"bar, EBS dimpled/slotted rotors, EBS green pads, custom K&N CAI, LCE headers, FM Super 44 w/h turn down, URD MAF, Spec clutch, LCE heavy flywheel, URD short shifter, TMPer M1 Abrams shift knob, Amsoil oil, Cobra 75wxst w/h 4' firestix, Grillcraft, FXR TRS, T1 eyelids, custom ADV Monster 60 lights, bed lights, speedo light mod, Glow Shift volt/oil pres gauges, Glow shift 2g column pod, Optima yellow tops dual battery setup w/h IBS system, Pioneer DEH-P7200HD head unit, Pioneer 600W 4ch & 350w 2ch amps for doors and sub, Wet Oakle covers
    Well its really just a personal preference. I'm very pleased with the clutch that's in right now. Imo its a perfect stock replacement because of the added strength and stock pedal feel. I just personally want a harder pedal feel. Adds to the excitement of driving, for me anyway
     
    allmotorrex, Nov 23, 2012
    #72
  13. Feb 7, 2013 at 4:18 PM
    #73
    beechmon

    #73
    beechmon Well-Known Member

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    Just bought, looking for ideas...
    I ended up doing the clutch, and found that for OEM replacement, AUtozone hooked it up with the throwout bearing for $100. couldn't beat that anywhere.
     
    beechmon, Feb 7, 2013
    #73
  14. Feb 7, 2013 at 4:46 PM
    #74
    motoretro

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    motoretro Well-Known Member

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    That's great price......Are you happy with the action and release point?, Where was it made?
    Thanks, Motoretro


     
    motoretro, Feb 7, 2013
    #74
  15. Feb 9, 2013 at 3:19 PM
    #75
    Faryota

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    Faryota Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the write up!!!
     
    Faryota, Feb 9, 2013
    #75
  16. Mar 5, 2013 at 7:22 PM
    #76
    nj636

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    nj636 Hub Master General

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    I went with an Brute Power clutch which is the kit's that Autozone sells. Picked it up from Rock Auto for $96 with our 5% discount. In all i spent a little over $200 with the purchase of a URD short throw.

    Good write up OP
     
    Last edited: May 4, 2013
    nj636, Mar 5, 2013
    #76
  17. Mar 5, 2013 at 8:05 PM
    #77
    allmotorrex

    #77
    allmotorrex [OP] Grove St. Fab

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    NWF crawlbox, 5.29s, rear Detriot, front Harrop, 37" SXIIs, 17x9" KMC Grenade Crawl beadlocks, Dirt King 3.5" LT kit with King shocks, Fox 12" smooth body RR, BAMF shock kit, AP 3" springs, ext. brake lines, custom 1 piece driveshaft with .135 wall tubeing, GSF front rock crawling bumper, GSF rear bumper, Relentless Fab ifs skid, BAMF k/o sliders, X2O 10K comp. winch, TP glass fenders, OKled 20"bar, EBS dimpled/slotted rotors, EBS green pads, custom K&N CAI, LCE headers, FM Super 44 w/h turn down, URD MAF, Spec clutch, LCE heavy flywheel, URD short shifter, TMPer M1 Abrams shift knob, Amsoil oil, Cobra 75wxst w/h 4' firestix, Grillcraft, FXR TRS, T1 eyelids, custom ADV Monster 60 lights, bed lights, speedo light mod, Glow Shift volt/oil pres gauges, Glow shift 2g column pod, Optima yellow tops dual battery setup w/h IBS system, Pioneer DEH-P7200HD head unit, Pioneer 600W 4ch & 350w 2ch amps for doors and sub, Wet Oakle covers
    No problem man. Hope it helped!

    Hmmmmmm I wonder what the life of the clutch will be like. And thank u for the kind words sir.
     
    allmotorrex, Mar 5, 2013
    #77
  18. Mar 10, 2013 at 11:51 AM
    #78
    alwaysfaded

    #78
    alwaysfaded Well-Known Member

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    How many miles were on your clutch when you replaced it? Sorry could be in the thread but i'm feeling lazy. I have almost 100,000 miles on my taco (wow, seems like just yesterday I bought her new) and sometimes my clutch feels like it's slipping a little, but most time it still feels just like when it was brand new
     
    alwaysfaded, Mar 10, 2013
    #78
  19. Mar 10, 2013 at 6:18 PM
    #79
    nj636

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    nj636 Hub Master General

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    140k for me
     
    nj636, Mar 10, 2013
    #79
  20. Mar 10, 2013 at 6:29 PM
    #80
    nj636

    #80
    nj636 Hub Master General

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    throw out bearing started making noise first, then the clutch slipped while trying to get out of some really soft sand and it was releasing really high so I figured it was time.
     
    nj636, Mar 10, 2013
    #80
Page 4 of 10

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