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Blown Head Gasket/H G Replacement Thread

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Old 04-18-2011, 08:48 PM   #21
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Old 04-18-2011, 09:11 PM   #22
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Ok, thanks! Maybe I'm an idiot, but how do I get Cylinder 1 at TDC?
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Old 04-19-2011, 04:48 AM   #23
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Turn the crankbolt clockwise.

Page 6 #27
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Old 04-22-2011, 11:53 AM   #24
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Okay, Now I don't know what else to do.

Previous to the following things, The truck would start albeit with a high idle and engine light (p0336: Crankshaft Position Sensor Error).

- Set Crank Pulley to TDC
- Removed Distributor and lined up the factory markings. Dialed it back a bit before reinserting since the gear moves forward when securing it. Once installed the lines match up.

- Replaced Spark Plug Wires (NGK from Amazon)
- Replaced IAC Valve.

So I put everything back together, reconnected the battery and now the engine won't start

I can hear it trying to turn over and then clicking. Did I miss something?

Could it be the cams out of sync preventing it from starting?

Any ideas? Much Appreciated!
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Old 04-22-2011, 01:06 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by s1deout View Post
Dialed it back a bit before reinserting since the gear moves forward when securing it. Once installed the lines match up.
No. This is wrong. The marks should align exactly BEFORE you put it in. It is designed so it will then be right when inserted even though it turns and the marks won't be aligned after installation. So. Align them perfectly. Push the distributor straight in. Tighten the bolts. Start the truck.

Also, make sure it is aligned for TDC on number 1 cylinder. The TDC mark will align for number 4 cylinder as well. If you have it lined up for number 4 you have to rotate the timing mark one more full revolution to be at number 1.
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Old 04-22-2011, 03:46 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Murrfk View Post
No. This is wrong. The marks should align exactly BEFORE you put it in. It is designed so it will then be right when inserted even though it turns and the marks won't be aligned after installation. So. Align them perfectly. Push the distributor straight in. Tighten the bolts. Start the truck.

Also, make sure it is aligned for TDC on number 1 cylinder. The TDC mark will align for number 4 cylinder as well. If you have it lined up for number 4 you have to rotate the timing mark one more full revolution to be at number 1.
Okay Thanks.

I reinstalled the distributor with factory mark lined up with the rotor while the crank pulley mark was aligned with zero on the timing scale. So after I inserted the distributor it did rotate slightly clockwise past the mark. I put the dist cap back on and got the same result?

Should I have turned the crank one full turn to get cylinder 1 to TDC? I thought that lining up the crank with zero is what indicated that cylinder 1 is at TDC?

According to the Haynes manual, "To get the piston to TDC on the compression stroke, turn the crankshaft one complete turn (360 degrees) clockwise. The rotor should now be pointing at the mark on the distributor. When the rotor is pointing at the number one spark plug wire terminal in the distributor cap and the ignition timing marks are aligned, the number one piston is at TDC on the compression stroke".

I apologize for my ignorance, but I'm assuming one full crank pulley revolution doesn't equal one full turn of the distributor rotor.

Is there a way to visually inspect the location of the piston 1 without removing the valve cover?
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Old 04-23-2011, 12:00 PM   #27
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If the distributor rotor is pointing to the lead that goes to cylinder number 1, and the timing mark on the pulley is lined up for TDC, that is where it should be to insert the distributor with the distributor marks aligned. The dots on the camshafts should also be aligned at that point.

So if that is what you did, and the vehicle still will not start, you have another issue. Do you have gas in the tank? What else did you adjust?

I am not sure what you mean by factory mark aligned with rotor. The marks are on the shaft of the distributor. You can't see them when you put the distributor in. Did you check the diagram in the thread I linked above? Are you sure you are doing this properly? Did you download the manual?
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Old 04-24-2011, 04:12 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Murrfk View Post
If the distributor rotor is pointing to the lead that goes to cylinder number 1, and the timing mark on the pulley is lined up for TDC, that is where it should be to insert the distributor with the distributor marks aligned. The dots on the camshafts should also be aligned at that point.

So if that is what you did, and the vehicle still will not start, you have another issue. Do you have gas in the tank? What else did you adjust?

I am not sure what you mean by factory mark aligned with rotor. The marks are on the shaft of the distributor. You can't see them when you put the distributor in. Did you check the diagram in the thread I linked above? Are you sure you are doing this properly? Did you download the manual?
SUCCESS!!! Thank you very much for all your help. There was some grease stuck to the groove on the gear of the distributor which is why I didn't see it the first time. DUH!

Then I lined up the crank pulley to TDC and then inserted the distributor and allowed it to catch and rotate naturally.

Hooked the battery back up, put the engine oil in that I drained and VOILA, the truck started up. No check engine lights either!

Thanks Again!
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Old 06-07-2012, 02:28 PM   #29
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Hey Murrfk I'm putting the stuff together to do this job on my 1997 2.7L. Would you mind looking over this parts list and see if there's anything I'm omitting? Gaskets: head, intake mani, valve cover. Grommets, head bolts. Oil pan gasket is unrelated.


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Old 06-08-2012, 05:47 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by misterdmac View Post
Hey Murrfk I'm putting the stuff together to do this job on my 1997 2.7L. Would you mind looking over this parts list and see if there's anything I'm omitting? Gaskets: head, intake mani, valve cover. Grommets, head bolts. Oil pan gasket is unrelated.


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You may have to relist them. Not everyone has google + and can see it.
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Old 06-08-2012, 08:02 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 98tacoma27 View Post
You may have to relist them. Not everyone has google + and can see it.
Shoot. Well basically it's a cart consisting of: head gasket, valve cover gasket w/ grommets, intake mani gaskets, and head bolts w/ washers.

I think that covers the essentials, but is there anything else I shouldn't skip while I've got her undressed? Or anything you guys found that you didn't expect to have to do?

Thanks, people
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Old 06-08-2012, 08:07 AM   #32
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Are you getting a gasket kit? Like this:

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Old 06-08-2012, 08:09 AM   #33
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Should I? Are those really all the gaskets that might crumble when I pull the head? I do want to replace any gasket that I have to remove parts from.
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Old 06-08-2012, 08:18 AM   #34
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It's my preferred method. There are some in there that you won't use (two on the bottom left are timing cover). There will also be some in there that won't apply to your engine year. Anything silver will be exhaust related.

It's really personal preference and it depends on how far down you take it. I change the the timing set out "while I'm in there" and the water pump. Mind you this is generally on a high mileage motor (and again personal preference).

There's absolutely nothing wrong with just changing the headgasket either.
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Old 06-08-2012, 09:04 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 98tacoma27 View Post
There's absolutely nothing wrong with just changing the headgasket either.
QFT.

The head gasket is the hard one and the one that is furthest down to get to. Most of your other gaskets are not going to be in any serious need of replacement. They certainly should not have crumbled. But, since you have them, go for it. Head bolts are important. I used generic replacements and they worked well for me. I was worried, but they have held up for a year without a problem.

I would not replace the head gasket unless you HAD to. Much can go wrong and it is a pretty major job.
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Old 06-14-2012, 07:42 PM   #36
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Glad I found this thread. Looks like this is my next "mod" as mine just started with the white smoke today.
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Old 11-25-2013, 12:42 PM   #37
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Thumbs up

Murrfk, thank so much for the photos and great description. I have tore an engine apart in a long time but with the help of this thread I was able to get it off clean, just waiting for the gasket set now.. cant wait to have her back to life.

To anyone else that plans on this, drain the oil and antifreeze before the head comes off or the cylinders will fill with coolant and oil... then youll think your entire engine is caput..
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Old 11-28-2013, 10:10 AM   #38
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My head gasket has been holding strong since I did this replacement
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Old 11-28-2013, 02:38 PM   #39
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Good to go

I got it all figured out and drove her a hundred miles last night!!!
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