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Engine Dies After it Warms Up - 96 4cyl 4x4

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Old 07-23-2011, 10:27 AM   #1
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Red face Engine Dies After it Warms Up - 96 4cyl 4x4

I NEED HELP!

When my truck first starts it runs perfectly fine for about 2 or 3 minutes. Then as soon as it begins to warm up it starts having major trouble running.

To drive it after its started to warm up I have to rev it super high just to take off from a stop light. I pray that it will make it back home every time I try to take it to the grocery store 2 blocks away.

Once it's warmed up it just starts choking and dieing like it's not getting any air or fuel to the engine. It almost feels like someone is jamming the clutch in and out real fast when I'm trying to drive, the whole truck will shake and jump and I have to rev it super high just to keep it running long enough to get it into my driveway.

Then I have to wait about 2 hours or so for it to cool down again so I can drive it 2 or 3 blocks.

Luckily most of the places I go are very close. (work, store, etc..) but I'm planning on moving soon and NEED to get this fixed.

I've taken it to the mechanic 3 times already. The first time they said it needed the Throttle body cleaned. So they cleaned it and it kinda ran ok for about two days. Then it was right back to the same thing.

I took it in again and they said I needed a tune up and new plugs, wires and dist. cap. That didn't do anything either.

I don't know what to do now. I can't afford to keep taking it in and having them charge me to NOT fix the problem.

PLEASE HELP.

Thanks,
Josh
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Old 07-23-2011, 11:02 AM   #2
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Do you have a check engine light on? Did the mechanic check it with a OBDII tester? I would start by having a qualified mechanic look at it. With the truck running as you say it would affect the emissions which would turn on the check engine light and be stored in the computer and the OBDII tester will tell you the area to look at. There is an Intake Air Temperature sensor on the air cleaner housing. There is a Mass Airflow sensor in the air intake duct. The exhaust gas temp sensor and valve may be a problem. All of these sensors are part of the emission controls and will show up on the OBDII tester. If there is an auto mechanics school or community college that teaches auto mechanics near by you may be able to get it checked by them, that could save a few dollars. You buy the bad part and a student could put it in.
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Old 07-23-2011, 11:08 AM   #3
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A name brand autoparts store will usually test it for free.......assuming you can get it there
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Old 07-23-2011, 11:10 AM   #4
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The check engine light is on now but I think that was just because I was messing with the sensors the other day trying to figure out what was going on. The light wasn't on before that.

The mechanic I took it to has a tester, I don't know what kind, if its the OBDII or not but he did plug it in and check it. So I guess it didn't show anything other than it needing new plugs, wires, etc.. when it actually didn't.

I also took it to a parts store and they checked it and said it didn't show anything so I don't know.
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Old 07-23-2011, 11:12 AM   #5
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Is it overheating?
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Old 07-23-2011, 11:13 AM   #6
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No, it starts dieing as soon as it even begins to warm up. But once its warm the gauge just stays in the middle.
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Old 07-23-2011, 11:14 AM   #7
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How does the water(coolant) and oil look?
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Old 07-23-2011, 11:17 AM   #8
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I just had the oil changed so it should be fine. The radiator has had some problems in the past and I do need to get a new one but it was having issues for the last few years, long before this started.
This problem seems like something just broke on it. The truck was running fine one day and then the next it wouldn't run at all. As if a specific part had broke.
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Old 07-23-2011, 11:23 AM   #9
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So there is no water in the oil and vice versa?
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Old 07-23-2011, 11:28 AM   #10
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I don't know. I had the oil changed at a Valvoline service center about a month before the problem started.
Could that be it? Maybe they accidentally put water in my oil?
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Old 07-23-2011, 11:31 AM   #11
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No, but I'm thinking it could be the headgasket. If you have water in your oil or vice versa or if the plugs are wet, it's a good indication that the HG is bad. A compression test will also pin point the problem.

There are also other things that could cause this issue. It's just not easy to pin-point.
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Old 07-23-2011, 11:34 AM   #12
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So what do you think I should do?
Is there something I can fix or test at home? (I'm not very good at this stuff but one of my roommates knows a bit maybe we can do it)

Or would I need to take it in again?
The problem with taking it in is that they don't listen to anything. I take it in and they just say "ohh ok, we'll check it out..."
And then I come back the next day and they say they've fixed this or that and charge me for it but don't fix the problem. They just fix random things and then tell me it's good to go.

Damn it! I just don't know what to do. I need to get this fixed BAD! Very frustrating.
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Old 07-23-2011, 11:40 AM   #13
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Check your fluids and make sure they are clean and the levels are ok. You can "kind of" test the HG by running the truck with the radiator cap off and observing the coolant. If it shoots out of the radiator, it's the headgasket. The fluid flow should be calm and slow. You could run some injector cleaner in the gas. Try changing the fuel filter. Clean the MAF (be careful and use MAF cleaner).

Check for vacuum lines first. Make sure all are connected and none are cracked or leaking. If you have a small propane torch, you can run the propane (UNLIT) around the vacuum lines while the truck is running. If the RPM's accelerate you have found a leak.

Disconnect the neg term of the battery for a few minutes to clear the code that has been displayed.
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Old 07-24-2011, 10:12 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TacomaTrouble View Post
The check engine light is on now but I think that was just because I was messing with the sensors the other day trying to figure out what was going on. The light wasn't on before that.

The mechanic I took it to has a tester, I don't know what kind, if its the OBDII or not but he did plug it in and check it. So I guess it didn't show anything other than it needing new plugs, wires, etc.. when it actually didn't.

I also took it to a parts store and they checked it and said it didn't show anything so I don't know.
Get the trouble code or codes from the mechanic. The store is wrong if you had a check engine light when you went there you had to have a code stored. Frankly something don't smell right. The OBDII codes don't say needs plugs and wires it tells you of a problem or area of the problem like cyclinder # 1 misfire detected or mass airflow sensor error etc. I think so far you are dealing with less than capable mechanic and a parts store guy that doesn't know how to read the tester.
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Old 07-24-2011, 10:14 AM   #15
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At the rate this is going you should take it to a Toyota dealer and have their mechanic look at it and give you an estimate.
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Old 07-24-2011, 10:28 AM   #16
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Find a new mechanic. A good mechanic will diagnose the problem and not just throw parts at it as yours has. Check fuel pressure, compression, ignition system, injectors. As others have stated cleaning then testing the MAF would also be a good starting point.
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Old 07-24-2011, 10:41 AM   #17
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ok, thanks, I'll try that. What is an MAF?
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Old 07-24-2011, 10:52 AM   #18
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The OBDII codes are posted on TW at
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/tec...ror-codes.html

MAF is Mass Air Flow. The MAF valve controls the air to the engine.
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Old 07-24-2011, 04:28 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TMW View Post
The OBDII codes are posted on TW at
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/tec...ror-codes.html

MAF is Mass Air Flow. The MAF valve controls the air to the engine.
To add, It's a sensor that reads the air.

Quote:
The MAF meter is a sensor that measures the amount of air flowing through the throttle valve. The ECM uses this information to determine the fuel injection time and to provide an appropriate air-fuel ratio.

Inside the MAF meter, there is a heated platinum wire which is exposed to the flow of intake air. By applying a specific electrical current to the wire, the ECM heats it to a specific temperature. The flow of incoming air cools both the wire and an internal thermistor, affecting their resistance. To maintain a constant current value, the ECM varies the voltage applied to these components of the MAF meter. The voltage level is proportional to the airflow through the sensor, and the ECM uses it to calculate the intake air volume.
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Old 07-24-2011, 04:38 PM   #20
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At this point you are just listening to all of us throw out our BEST guesses. the only REAL way to know what is wrong is to have a good shop look at it and not one that just throws parts at the truck until they accidentally fix it.
They will have to run through a fault tree and dismiss each area one by one. It can be anything from a mechanical failure to just a wire that shorts or opens when it's heated.
No way for anybody here to know for sure without having your truck in their driveway.
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