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Water Bypass Pipe No.1

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Old 01-27-2012, 08:20 PM   #1
SMS909 [OP] SMS909 is offline
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Question Water Bypass Pipe No.1

Hello everyone. Im new to the forum. I have a 2005 tacoma standard cab with the 2.7 L4 2trfe, 5spd trans with 200,000 miles on it. I cant seem to find any help online or in my own repair manual about the replacing the water bypass pipe no.1 located between the engine block and the intake manifold. It runs from the thermostat housing along the block to the rear of the engine compartment by the starter. Tried to replace it without removing the intake manifold but was unsuccessfull in doing so. I also tried a new gasket and that did not fix the problem. Ive reluctantly used Barrs copper stop leak for a bit now but the leak has now come back after about 8 months. I think its cracked around the front of the pipe close to where it bolts up to the thermostat housing but cant tell because the area is so compact that I cant get a good look at it. All I can see is dried coolant where the stop leak has plugged it. Supposedly I will have to remove the fuel injectors along with the throttle body assembly just to remove the intake manifold. Is there a way around that? I have a little know how as I can do most general upkeep on my own but am afraid that this may be a little too involved for me to take on. If anyone on the forum has had to replace the water bypass pipe no.1 can you please share your experience and knowledge of the job with me. I hope this can be a job I can do myself as I already have all the parts to do the job but just a lack of knowledge. Im afraid that if I take it to a mechanic theyre gonna charge me a buttload to replace a $25 part. Thank you for any input and knowledge on my situation.
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Old 01-27-2012, 08:25 PM   #2
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I'd go talk to a Toyota mechanic and see if he can do the job privately. If you F-up it would cost you ALOT more.
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Old 05-29-2012, 12:21 PM   #3
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Hey SMS- I have an '05 with the 4-cylinder and 218K miles and just this last week had exactly the same problem. The pipe is 100% molded plastic and bolts with a 2-bolt flange to the back of the thermostat housing, runs straight back alongside the block, then turns left (toward the left side of the truck) and ends with a bolted flange and 2 water hose outlets, 1 larger one for the cabin heater core and 1 smaller one for the water feed up into the throttle body.

My pipe was leaking at both ends but you absolutely cannot see the rear connections with the inlet manifold in place and of course, the rear connection was the worse leak. When I finally got the pipe out, the outlet-barb going to the throttle body was completely broken free from the rest of the pipe and when I squeezed the rubber hose with pliers to force the outlet out of the hose, it came out in chunks. I was lucky that the front was also leaking as I was just about to pull the head for a new head gasket when I spotted the bypass pipe leak.

One of the mechanics at Toyota of Stockton (California) told me that he thought I could get the bypass pipe out and back in with the inlet manifold in place but I just can't see how that would happen. The rear of the bypass pipe is bolted to a tab near the starter mount and you'd have to have really small hands and already know what the situation looks like as you'd be doing the job blind.

It wasn't really that big a deal to pull the inlet manifold although getting the rear vent tube back in place made me swear 4 times. I unbolted the fuel return pipe but did not disturb the inlet pipe, injectors or the fuel lines. I did have to slightly bend the auto tranny dipstick a bit as it bolts to the manifold but I felt that was better than disturbing the dipstick at the tranny. The flat-rate manual does have a time listed for the bypass pipe (.9 hours) but it also adds 1.7 hours to R&R the manifold and does say that pulling the manifold is a must. I have the Clymer manual and it has no info on the bypass pipe itself but once you get the manifold off the pipe is self-explanatory.

I'm a fairly experienced hobby mechanic and the job was irritating but straightforward. There is no way this pipe would have been made of plastic or would have failed on my 22R truck. I like the power and comfort of my Tacoma and plan to keep it a good bit longer, but it is simply becoming clear that Toyota isn't building trucks like they used to.
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Old 05-05-2013, 10:22 PM   #4
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