Clutch creak = removing transmission?

I have an 09 4x4 2.7 manual truck and just hit 60,000km. I started getting the typical clutch pedal "creak" coming from under the truck by the tranny. It's there and noticeable when it's hot out but not when it's cool/damp. I read up alot on here about people shooting some grease or WD40 at the fork and ball and it fixing the problem for awhile. I figured since my truck is under warranty, let the dealer do it first or let them deny that the creak is even there and then I'd do whatever was necessary to fix it.

So I brought it in yesterday and they called me back a few hours later to pick it up. Long story short, they have to order parts and book it in for next Tuesday. The work order says:
"CLUTCH RELEASE BEARING SQUEAKING ON INPUT SHAFT
MUST REMOVE TRANSMISSION"

So my question is this really necessary? From what I read up on here, dealers were just lubing these. Will a new throw out bearing fix the problem or is it just going to come back and then have to do it all again in another 60,000km?

 

I just had my clutch replaced under tsb-0066, but I started to have the creek at 20,000. For me lubing the contact point of the slave piston to the shift fork caused most of it to go away. That contact rusted and was metal to metal especially in the rain. My entire shift fork is rusted to hell.

You do have to unbolt the trans from the engine to get to the throw out bearing and the shaft. They should measure the shaft to see if it is worn at all.

 

My release bearing was not replaced; only the pressure plate and flywheeel. The tech said it looked new and the shaft was perfect. After the work I have not had the noise in a while. If it returns I am confident that the lubrication is not holding up well.

 

I did this at first and it still didn't go away. I eventually found that it was coming from the shift fork pivot point, which was also rusty metal-to-metal contact. I lubed it was teflon grease and the squeak hasn't come back in >20,000 miles.

Pull the rubber boot out of the clutch housing, push the shift fork in the opposite direction of operation (i.e. pull it off the pivot point), and try to get some sort of grease in the general vicinity of the contact point. Work the clutch pedal, then repeat until the squeaking disappears.

 

I'm in Timmins but originally from Thunder Bay. I heard about the luk/asin clutch... how do you tell which one you have? I haven't had any problems with slipping... yet (knock on wood). I thought the 4 cylinder/5 speed combo was supposed to be bullet proof and the cheapest to maintain and cheapest to fuel.

 

What is TSB-0066? I looked under the boot at the transmission from the slave cylinder and my fork is rusted to hell too. The little clip is barely even there. Thats why I figured I should bring it in. It's all open in there... can't see how water or salt in the winter wouldn't get in. Shitty design from what I seen.

 

I have the clutch squeak. I found it's not the pedal that squeaks but the noise is coming from where the clutch linkage goes into the transmission. Is that what's covered by TSB-0066?

 

Clutch tsb has to do with it slipping under load or normal use. Some trucks have a clutch plate that isn't strong enough for the engine and tsb066-11 is made for that solution.

This noise isn't related as it has to do with the slave and the shift fork. The slave contacts with the shift fork and rust/dirt can cause the noise to start. This is a pivot point and can bind. Use grease for a long-term fix or white lithium for short term if it bothers you. This is located on the side of the transmission housing where the boot is. Don't spray into the bell housing behind the boot as you can contaminate the clutch.

The spray only lasted until it got wet again from rain. The grease lasts much longer of course, but you may have to unbolt the slave (2 bolts) to sand the tip down and get a good amount of grease in there.

 

Your arrow is pointing to the shift fork. To the left of your finger at the tip of the slave is where it contacts the shift fork creating a pivot point that moves the fork. This is where most of the noise if coming from. You can see that end is rusted in the pic but the point is just a tip/ball end. It wears over time and can get dirt/rust there. Unbolt the slave and sand the tip a little. Clean the tip and contact point with something and put some heavy axle grease there and where it contacts.

If this doesn't fix it then the shaft that the release bearing rides on may need to be re-greased. You can't do this easily without dropping the transmission. Perhaps the dealer can replace this rusted fork if it is really bad. Don't spray inside that boot.

 

I have greased the fitting on the slave. It took quite a bit, but didn't solve the squeak. I got under there and had someone engage the clutch and I hear the squeak coming from inside the housing.

Dang. Yeah, it's coming from inside the housing, not the slave.

 

Hopefully you have a warranty issue here with your power-train warranty if you are under 60k.

 

I posted this above but no one saw it I guess. Try lubing the pivot point of the 'shift fork', where the clip is that someone mentioned earlier. It's inside the bell housing but you can reach it with your finger. Don't use any spray lubes as there's a chance of hitting the clutch material. Put some grease on the end of your finger and work it in between the shift fork and the pivot point. Have someone pump the clutch a couple of times and repeat until the squeak is gone.

This is what fixed my squeaking, hasn't been back for over 20,000 miles now. I used teflon grease.

 

Yeah, I'm iffy about spraying or applying anything inside the housing. But I'll see if I can take a look inside. Just have to find someone trustworthy enough not to mash on the clutch when my fingers are all in the housing

 

The rubber boot that I'm holding back with my finger fits back in the transmission housing around the shift fork, pretty much sealing it from debris and water.

 

Well I guess I should post an update. I brought the truck in and they ended up replacing the release bearing and the pilot bearing all under warranty. Later that night, the creak was starting to come back. I figured it would, since to me it seemed like it was just the pivot point at the slave. I brought it back in a few days later and in less than an hour I had my truck back. They said they cleaned the rust on the slave to fork pivot and greased it up. Haven't had anymore creaks and the truck feels like brand new now with the new bearings!

 

Great news! I think 90% of people with creek will fall into this situation.

 

i have a 2010 and i started getting the creak. i brought it in 2 days ago under warranty , they said it was the fork in the bell housing. and they greased it. the noise went away and it feels great. not sure how long it will last tho. i hope it wasnt a bearing problem.