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2009 2.7 Engine Squeak/Squeal

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Old 07-31-2012, 11:27 AM   #1
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2009 2.7 Engine Squeak/Squeal

Hi All,
Did a search but may have missed a good answer.

So 2009 I4 SR5 w/ 76,000 miles. I have had an obnoxious engine squeak for I don't know how long. Landlord is a mechanic and it drives him nuts. It seems to really squeal around 2500 rpm, which is where I do most of my cruising. So I popped the hood and shot some WD40 in 3 places that all appeared to be idlers. The sound def changed for a while. Higher pitched!

Anybody have a belt diagram for the 2.7? How would I check the belt tension? How hard is it to replace a pulley? Should I consider replacing the Serpentine just for shits and giggles? Any other suggestions?
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Old 08-01-2012, 05:46 AM   #2
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Anybody offer some help or do 4 banger never have engine problems?
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Old 08-01-2012, 05:49 AM   #3
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Sounds like the belt idler pulley. I'd try installing a new belt, first.
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Old 08-01-2012, 05:53 AM   #4
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When a belt starts to wear, it wont ride smoothly on the pulley. First warning is a squeal noise. Replace belt.
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Old 08-01-2012, 05:57 AM   #5
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So 2 for a new belt, then take it from there.

I did a visual inspection of the belt yesterday and no signs of cracking of any wear. Could the wear not be visible?

Any comments on checking belt tension or replacing a pulley?
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Old 08-01-2012, 05:57 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BamaToy1997 View Post
When a belt starts to wear, it wont ride smoothly on the pulley. First warning is a squeal noise. Replace belt.
I know you've heard it many times but your sig gets me soooooo distracted!
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Old 08-01-2012, 06:13 AM   #7
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i had that on my 02 sr5, i replaced all belts and tensioner bolt. fixed my problem!
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Old 08-01-2012, 10:20 AM   #8
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The ribs don't crack (much) anymore; the depth gets lower. With the belt off, clean all the pulleys with a solvent before install.
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Old 08-01-2012, 11:59 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steves104x4 View Post
The ribs don't crack (much) anymore; the depth gets lower. With the belt off, clean all the pulleys with a solvent before install.
Thanks for the info. Anybody do a write up on replacing a belt? Doesn't look too hard.
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Old 09-19-2012, 07:00 PM   #11
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I have the same issue on my 09 2tr-fe 4ycl. It rained like hell here yesterday and it squeeled for at least 5 miles out of my house. It had me freaked out because the last thing I want to deal with is replacing the pulley on the tensioner which brings me to my question:

Is there a way around buying an entire tensioner arm? Do the pulleys sold on rockauto for the "lower" also work on the tensioner? They appear to be the same 70x33mm size.
Is the bolt reverse threaded?


I guess I'll start with the cheap parts and replace the belt first. How much play is supposed to be in the tensioner pulley bearing? I thought I could feel some wiggle in there, though I haven't checked it with the belt off yet. I really dont want to spend 200 dollars on parts for a problem caused by a single bearing. Tensioner is 110-170 depending if online or local store, a trusted belt is about 40 dollars, and the other pulley for good measure is another 40-60 dollars!

I am not impressed with Toyota build quality in their choice of sourced small parts. Sure, the engines are stout though underwhelming and lack the economy you'd expect, but small things like the spark plug wire tabs, wheel bearings, the diff whine, stereo gremlins - you'd think they would get it right by now.

Thanks
J
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Old 09-25-2012, 11:30 AM   #12
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I did the belt, didnt even need to remove the fan shroud. So far, quiet enough. No word on that tensioner arm pulley though?
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Old 09-25-2012, 11:41 AM   #13
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The pulley on my 95 was still good at 170K.... But I was being preventative. There's nothing like a new set of bearings... I really like gator belts.
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Old 12-20-2012, 05:52 PM   #14
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mine squealed at different times.changed the belt all quiet now.
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Old 03-19-2013, 05:49 PM   #15
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Well, I abandoned my own thread. I replaced the belt when I started the thread and oiled up all the pulleys. Was quiet for a while. Now it ranges from slightly annoying to a scary load shreak! I also have side to side play like udelslayer.
I'll keep looking around.
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Old 04-06-2014, 04:45 PM   #16
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Is there a replacement for 2TR-FE tensioner pulley?

Quote:
Originally Posted by udelslayer View Post
I have the same issue on my 09 2tr-fe 4ycl. ......

Is there a way around buying an entire tensioner arm? Do the pulleys sold on rockauto for the "lower" also work on the tensioner? They appear to be the same 70x33mm size. Is the bolt reverse threaded?

......

Thanks
J
Bump this old thread because my 07 2TR-FE is having the same issue and I could not find a good answer anywhere.

I took the belt off and found some rust on all three pulleys (it has been raining. The truck was parked on the street and I did not drive it for a few months). I am sure that causes the noise. In the meantime, I can tell the tensioner pulley has some play and it is on its way out. Beside of cleaning up the pulleys and changing the belt, I want to be able to just replace the pulley on the tensioner instead of whole tenosioner assembly. Did anyone do this successfully?

I have read about it on other forums. The pulley on the tensioner is some how special, no aftermarket replacement available. This is because Toyota uses a special bearing on it. However, it seems to me someone was able to replace the bearing, but the size of the bearing and where to get the bearing were not clear to me.

Before giving up this thought, just want to asking people here one more time and hope to get some clarifications. Thanks
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Old 04-07-2014, 06:30 PM   #17
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It appeared to me that the lower pulley and upper idler is the same as the one on the tensioner arm. I'm not sure why they would even try to use different parts anyway being that they want to save costs. I think you'd have to reuse the original bolt since its reverse threaded. The rollers look different from one another, but its because of a cap and sleeve that protect and space the ones bolted to the motor directly.

Personally, I would replace the arm since the spring is somewhat weak imho. My squealies went away, but somewhat returned recently on the colder days with rain for the first minute of startup.

The real thing you're after is the bearing. I wonder if thats easily replacable, probably. I bought all the parts I could find for convenience instead of guessing what should be replaced on the daily driver.

I can take apart the ones I removed and see if they fit together properly.

J
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Old 04-07-2014, 10:44 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by udelslayer View Post
It appeared to me that the lower pulley and upper idler is the same as the one on the tensioner arm. I'm not sure why they would even try to use different parts anyway being that they want to save costs. I think you'd have to reuse the original bolt since its reverse threaded. The rollers look different from one another, but its because of a cap and sleeve that protect and space the ones bolted to the motor directly.

Personally, I would replace the arm since the spring is somewhat weak imho. My squealies went away, but somewhat returned recently on the colder days with rain for the first minute of startup.

The real thing you're after is the bearing. I wonder if thats easily replacable, probably. I bought all the parts I could find for convenience instead of guessing what should be replaced on the daily driver.

I can take apart the ones I removed and see if they fit together properly.

J
The no.1 and AC idler pulley (lower) have different part numbers. They should be different in some way. People are saying the AC idler pulley has two bearings in it, but the bearings are the same as in no.1 pulley. However, the bearing in the tensioner pulley is different. It will be very interesting to know the facts. Hope you have time to take them apart and post the findings here. Thanks
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Old 04-08-2014, 07:45 AM   #19
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I stand corrected. The parts are indeed different after you get a look at the back of the pulley.

The tensioner arm has a single bearing, and it doesn't look very durable. I would think that you could get replacements and press them, but they've made it in a way where you almost have to replace each unit. I don't know why Toyota couldn't use the same pulley on all the idler and tensioner locations. It would have been more cost effective.

I've attached pics of what I found. The left is obviously the tensioner and pulley and the right is the upper idler between the p/s and alternator.

J
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2009 2.7 Engine Squeak/Squeal-img_20140408_103546.jpg   2009 2.7 Engine Squeak/Squeal-img_20140408_103624.jpg   2009 2.7 Engine Squeak/Squeal-img_20140408_103633.jpg  
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Old 04-08-2014, 11:52 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by udelslayer View Post
I stand corrected. The parts are indeed different after you get a look at the back of the pulley.

The tensioner arm has a single bearing, and it doesn't look very durable. I would think that you could get replacements and press them, but they've made it in a way where you almost have to replace each unit. I don't know why Toyota couldn't use the same pulley on all the idler and tensioner locations. It would have been more cost effective.

I've attached pics of what I found. The left is obviously the tensioner and pulley and the right is the upper idler between the p/s and alternator.

J
Thank you very much for the pictures. They are very helpful. The bearing inside of tensioner pulley is said to be special and hard to find. The difference could be just the inside diameter. The outside diameter of the bearing could be the same as the bearing in the upper pulley. Would you please to measure them if possible.

Some say they are the same bearings but there is a bushing inside of the upper pulley to make the difference and that bushing could be pushed out. From the picture you posted, I could not tell if there is a bushing or not. Can you clarify? Thanks.
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