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Old 11-30-2012, 02:48 PM   #1
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Exclamation wanna see rust....?

I just "imported" to San Antonio TX from Connecticut (is this the right spelling?) a 2006 4 cyl, 4 x 4, 5 spd. stnd. Got it on tuesday, i will post pics. of the 18 wheeler that could not turn into my cul-de-sac . But anyway: the truck smells like vomit inside (i think they've had aged cheese for lunch and then it came out!) I can fix that.

The real tragedy is the rust....I was srcrewing the license plates holders and happened to lose a nut under the chasi so i ducked down and there it was, rust on the back cross member (i think that is the name)
and some other areas, some of the nuts and screws look also rusted.

Any help, can I rinho coat these areas, is it expensive, do i need to stone grind all the rust first? or just leave as is.....?????
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Old 11-30-2012, 02:52 PM   #2
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If you really want people to read this thread, just post a pic of some safe for work boobies. then you'll start getting answers.
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Old 11-30-2012, 06:13 PM   #3
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Buy a wire brush and some scotchbrite pads. Sand away at the rust areas with them. Buy some spray paint and paint the rusted areas. I like to use krylon satin black on the frame. I live in Ga so I dont have a huge problem with rust like a northern truck would
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Old 11-30-2012, 06:14 PM   #4
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Rust

Sorry to hear that your new purchase came with this kind of surprise. Unfortunately, rust comes with the territory - road salt can do a number on a vehicle, especially the underbody/frame.

Depending on what you have in mind, there are a few things you can do to slow the decay. My first suggestion is to do a thorough wash of the under body/frame to remove any corrosive salt deposits. I've found that when inspecting the frame of my '00 Ranger I would find grains of salt on the top side of the frame. These 'grains', which are much larger than what comes out of the shaker, are the drying deposits of salty slush that gets kicked up under the vehicle. As they become wet again, they create concentrated spots that invite rust much faster. I've seen these deposits during the spring and summer months when there isn't any salt being used on the roads, so it's a leftover from the winter months. You want to get that off by powerwashing the vehicle and doing physical removal.

Once clean, you need to remove as much of the scale rust as possible and prime it with a rust inhibiting primer. There are expensive products out there that will actually stop the rusting process, so you may want to look into these. I understand that they are thick, pastey product that is brushed on, so more elbow grease needed to get it on. For me, I did the best I could at removing the scale, priming, painting and used a spray on undercoat on top of that. I had the Ranger looking ready for another 12 years before I sold it. I also replaced the corroded fasteners now while the removal was still possible with a wrench.

Lesson to be learned: best to buy a vehicle that isn't from a rust-belt.

Good luck with the project!!
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Old 11-30-2012, 06:18 PM   #5
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Spare tire

And pay particular attention to the spare tire mounts and accessories. Clean, clean, clean these items else you could be stuck with a flat tire and a perfectly good spare that you can't release.
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Old 11-30-2012, 06:26 PM   #6
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Wire wheel brush and some POR-15 will do the trick.
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Old 11-30-2012, 06:32 PM   #7
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After you sand an area down it will help if you wipe it off with rubbing alcahol and a rag to get any oil or dust off of the area. Do this before you paint so the paint will stick better
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Old 11-30-2012, 06:35 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toyodajeff View Post
After you sand an area down it will help if you wipe it off with rubbing alcahol and a rag to get any oil or dust off of the area. Do this before you paint so the paint will stick better
Good point!!
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Old 12-01-2012, 06:35 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toyodajeff View Post
Buy a wire brush and some scotchbrite pads. Sand away at the rust areas with them. Buy some spray paint and paint the rusted areas. I like to use krylon satin black on the frame. I live in Ga so I dont have a huge problem with rust like a northern truck would
Hey that sound doable, thanks for the good advise!
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Old 12-01-2012, 06:50 AM   #10
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Thumbs up

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rackster View Post
Sorry to hear that your new purchase came with this kind of surprise. Unfortunately, rust comes with the territory - road salt can do a number on a vehicle, especially the underbody/frame.

Depending on what you have in mind, there are a few things you can do to slow the decay. My first suggestion is to do a thorough wash of the under body/frame to remove any corrosive salt deposits. I've found that when inspecting the frame of my '00 Ranger I would find grains of salt on the top side of the frame. These 'grains', which are much larger than what comes out of the shaker, are the drying deposits of salty slush that gets kicked up under the vehicle. As they become wet again, they create concentrated spots that invite rust much faster. I've seen these deposits during the spring and summer months when there isn't any salt being used on the roads, so it's a leftover from the winter months. You want to get that off by powerwashing the vehicle and doing physical removal.

Once clean, you need to remove as much of the scale rust as possible and prime it with a rust inhibiting primer. There are expensive products out there that will actually stop the rusting process, so you may want to look into these. I understand that they are thick, pastey product that is brushed on, so more elbow grease needed to get it on. For me, I did the best I could at removing the scale, priming, painting and used a spray on undercoat on top of that. I had the Ranger looking ready for another 12 years before I sold it. I also replaced the corroded fasteners now while the removal was still possible with a wrench.

Lesson to be learned: best to buy a vehicle that isn't from a rust-belt.

Good luck with the project!!
Well you ve just given me a busy couple of weekends, but you are absolutely right, this corrosion will increase if no remedy is applied. I guess renting space in a car garage will be the best way to work off the scaling, look for those salty debris , remove them and to brush metal parts before coating with corrosion resistant paint. thanks for you deep insight into this. I took a gamble buying the truck without me being there and now these are the consequences. On the other hand in this area of Texas there are no 4 cyl, 4x4 so the hunting was good fun.
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Old 12-01-2012, 06:57 AM   #11
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Thumbs up

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rackster View Post
Sorry to hear that your new purchase came with this kind of surprise. Unfortunately, rust comes with the territory - road salt can do a number on a vehicle, especially the underbody/frame.

Depending on what you have in mind, there are a few things you can do to slow the decay. My first suggestion is to do a thorough wash of the under body/frame to remove any corrosive salt deposits. I've found that when inspecting the frame of my '00 Ranger I would find grains of salt on the top side of the frame. These 'grains', which are much larger than what comes out of the shaker, are the drying deposits of salty slush that gets kicked up under the vehicle. As they become wet again, they create concentrated spots that invite rust much faster. I've seen these deposits during the spring and summer months when there isn't any salt being used on the roads, so it's a leftover from the winter months. You want to get that off by powerwashing the vehicle and doing physical removal.

Once clean, you need to remove as much of the scale rust as possible and prime it with a rust inhibiting primer. There are expensive products out there that will actually stop the rusting process, so you may want to look into these. I understand that they are thick, pastey product that is brushed on, so more elbow grease needed to get it on. For me, I did the best I could at removing the scale, priming, painting and used a spray on undercoat on top of that. I had the Ranger looking ready for another 12 years before I sold it. I also replaced the corroded fasteners now while the removal was still possible with a wrench.

Lesson to be learned: best to buy a vehicle that isn't from a rust-belt.

Good luck with the project!!
Well you've just given me a busy couple of weekends, but you are absolutely right, this corrosion will increase if no remedy is applied soon. I guess renting space in a car garage will be the best way to work off the scaling, look for those salty debris remove them and to brush metal parts before coating with corrosion resistant primer. Thanks for your deep insight into this. I took a gamble buying the truck without me being there and now these are the consequences. On the other hand in this area of Texas there are no 4 cyl, 4x4 so the hunting was good fun.
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Old 12-01-2012, 07:00 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frrodriguez08 View Post
Well you ve just given me a busy couple of weekends, but you are absolutely right, this corrosion will increase if no remedy is applied. I guess renting space in a car garage will be the best way to work off the scaling, look for those salty debris , remove them and to brush metal parts before coating with corrosion resistant paint. thanks for you deep insight into this. I took a gamble buying the truck without me being there and now these are the consequences. On the other hand in this area of Texas there are no 4 cyl, 4x4 so the hunting was good fun.
Quote:
Originally Posted by toyodajeff View Post
After you sand an area down it will help if you wipe it off with rubbing alcahol and a rag to get any oil or dust off of the area. Do this before you paint so the paint will stick better
Will make sure to do that, What about using thinner instead ?
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Old 12-01-2012, 07:02 AM   #13
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Post up pics when you get a chance! And good luck, make it a fun project. Paint thinner or mineral spirits should work as well, just be more careful when applying.
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Old 12-01-2012, 07:07 AM   #14
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Welcome aboard and good luck! Sounds like our Northern brothers have the solution, do you have pics? It may just be surface rust, scratch that, probably is just surface rust.
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Old 12-03-2012, 08:12 AM   #15
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As one of the people from CT rust is a fact of life I usually go the other way from south to north that being said a hot power wash is the first step , a lot a good amount of time to this task then sand prep and paint with the focus on prep my 2002 hasent needed a new frame ( yet)
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Old 12-06-2012, 09:59 AM   #16
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I'm fighting rust issues myself. I heard fluid film is a good product for stopping rust.
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Old 12-06-2012, 10:02 AM   #17
I've done... questionable things.
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How am I supposed to see rust when there's no pics ?
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Old 12-07-2012, 02:35 PM   #18
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Here are some pics. of my rust, well my truck's....

I uploaded (for the first time) some of the pictures I just took some few minutes ago.
I will upload some more, is not easy to take pictures on this subject without a lift ramp.
Attached Thumbnails
wanna see rust....?-img_0277-2-.jpg   wanna see rust....?-img_0278-2-.jpg   wanna see rust....?-img_0279-2-.jpg   wanna see rust....?-img_0280-2-.jpg   wanna see rust....?-img_0281-2-.jpg  

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Old 12-07-2012, 02:40 PM   #19
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more rust pictures

here are some more
Attached Thumbnails
wanna see rust....?-img_0282-2-.jpg   wanna see rust....?-img_0283-2-.jpg   wanna see rust....?-img_0284-2-.jpg   wanna see rust....?-img_0286-2-.jpg   wanna see rust....?-img_0287-2-.jpg  

wanna see rust....?-img_0288-2-.jpg   wanna see rust....?-img_0289-2-.jpg   wanna see rust....?-img_0290-2-.jpg   wanna see rust....?-img_0291-2-.jpg   wanna see rust....?-img_0292-2-.jpg  

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Old 12-07-2012, 02:41 PM   #20
I've done... questionable things.
OZ-T is one of the sharper tools in the shedOZ-T is one of the sharper tools in the shedOZ-T is one of the sharper tools in the shedOZ-T is one of the sharper tools in the shedOZ-T is one of the sharper tools in the shedOZ-T is one of the sharper tools in the shedOZ-T is one of the sharper tools in the shedOZ-T is one of the sharper tools in the shedOZ-T is one of the sharper tools in the shedOZ-T is one of the sharper tools in the shedOZ-T is one of the sharper tools in the shed
 
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Honestly , not as bad as I thought it would be

Still not awesome for you though OP
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