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1999 Tacoma 2.7L Tuneup..

Discussion in '4 Cylinder' started by oldblue1968chevy, Jan 24, 2013.

  1. Jan 24, 2013 at 1:00 PM
    #1
    oldblue1968chevy

    oldblue1968chevy [OP] Well-Known Member

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    135,000 miles. I ran a full can of seafoam thru the gas tank, 1/3 can thru the brake vacumn hose (should I run more? I didnt notice much..).

    I have NGK plugs and NAPA wires I plan on installing this weekend along with a NAPA air filter. Whats the mass airflow sensor? should I take it off and clean it? How do I do that? What else should I do for mileage under the hood? (I plan on doing F/R gear oil and transfer case oil soon too as well) Probably farm out the transmission flush to a dealer or someone else.

    Thanks.
     
  2. Jan 24, 2013 at 1:11 PM
    #2
    oldblue1968chevy

    oldblue1968chevy [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Also would like to clena throttle body and any other related, any tips
     
  3. Jan 24, 2013 at 2:50 PM
    #3
    Fenwick1993

    Fenwick1993 Hillbilly

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    Stonewall is the fattest 5 lug slug ever
    Cleaning the Mass Airflow Sensor couldn't hurt. The MAF finds out how much air is going through the air intake system. This info is needed for the ECU to balance/deliver the proper fuel mass to the engine. It works hand in hand with the O2 Sensor, which makes minor corrections to the MAF's predictions. The sensor works by heating a platinum wire or plate and measuring the current required to keep it at a constant temperature while air blows past it. Over time, dust and oil cake to it. Eventually, those baked-on particles insulate the wire/plate from the airstream, so the sensor won't be able to get an accurate reading. This causes starting/idling/acceleration problems, and well as poor gas mileage.

    Get a can of Mass Air Flow Sensor Cleaner. Don't use any other cleaners, as they can ruin the MAF.

    Locate the MAF sensor in the air duct between the air filter box and the throttle body. Remove the sensor from the air duct and disconnect the electrical connector. Spray like 10-15 spurts of the cleaner onto the wire or plate. Don't scrub the parts, because you might break something. Let it dry completely before you re-install it.
     
  4. Jan 25, 2013 at 1:19 PM
    #4
    oldblue1968chevy

    oldblue1968chevy [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Changed the F/R diff fluid along with Tcase with valvoline synthetic gl5 75-90wt. Put new NGK plugs and wires in, greased 5 fittings on the driveshaft.

    I bought an air filter but it looked pretty good so I didnt change it out (may return it to get my $15 or so back).

    Was unsure about what I was doing (throttle body/sensors)... So I didnt do those.

    Note to others, t case/rear diff are very easy. Front diff was a PAIN! I had to take off the rear skiplate, couldnt figure out how to take the front one off, had to use a plunger gun thing with a hose to fill my front diff and even that was a pain!!!!

    Tools needed: 24mm socket and 10mm allen wrench drip pan and a 12mm for the ski plate bolts.
     
  5. Jan 25, 2013 at 4:07 PM
    #5
    tan4x4

    tan4x4 Well-Known Member

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    Bilsteins, OME 881's, 3-leaf AAL, Detroit TruTrac, Tundra brake swap, Michelin LTX AT2, Tranny skidplate, TC skidplate, CBI rear bumper, TG sliders, UltraGauge, PowerTank, Reverse Camera
    FYI, the 24mm socket can be replaced with a 15/16" socket.
     
  6. Jan 25, 2013 at 8:29 PM
    #6
    Fenwick1993

    Fenwick1993 Hillbilly

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    I'd keep the filter for later when you might need it. Might save a couple cents/dollars down the road if you have it already. But that's just me. I'm a cheap-o. :D
     
  7. Jan 29, 2013 at 8:14 AM
    #7
    oldblue1968chevy

    oldblue1968chevy [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I lubed u joints bj's didnt have zerks, ?steering stops?
     

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