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Old 07-10-2013, 06:00 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by epa4wd View Post
Dont know if it matters but the truck used by urd (I think) was a 6-lug pre-runner (bigger tires and I think different diff ratio)
Wouldn't make any difference. A dyno measures power produced, and generates the same power curve for the same engine. We did runs in 4th gear and were topped out by the speed limiter. When we did 3rd gear runs we still got the same power curve. It just went all the way up to red line in 3rd.
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Old 07-10-2013, 06:08 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by tooter View Post
Wouldn't make any difference. A dyno measures power produced, and generates the same power curve for the same engine. We did runs in 4th gear and were topped out by the speed limiter. When we did 3rd gear runs we still got the same power curve. It just went all the way up to red line in 3rd.

Cool, didn't know that.
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Old 07-10-2013, 06:43 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by tooter View Post
Wouldn't make any difference. A dyno measures power produced, and generates the same power curve for the same engine. We did runs in 4th gear and were topped out by the speed limiter. When we did 3rd gear runs we still got the same power curve. It just went all the way up to red line in 3rd.
Tires/wheels make a difference, more weight lower rear wheel HP.
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Old 07-10-2013, 07:55 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by worthywads View Post
Tires/wheels make a difference, more weight lower rear wheel HP.
Yes... good point, worthy.

There would be some parasitic loss with heavier wheels because of their inertial weight. I'm running relatively lightweight low rolling resistance passenger car tires on alloy wheels. They're rated to carry maximum weight at 51psi and I run them at 40psi. That would also account for a small portion of the gains.

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Old 07-10-2013, 08:01 PM   #25
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Thanks for the great intake pics,

Depending on what happens and if I keep my 2012 RC 4x4 MT, I really want a slightly louder muffler and that header,

Probably going to do a drop in high flow filter though, money will decide, Lol...

As it always does!
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Old 07-10-2013, 08:24 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by Gelo760 View Post
Would you estimate the header hp gain to be around 20hp
That's an unknown because there are a combination of small mods. There is likely a small multiplication factor in the intake and header working together since they're both directly related to the operation of the engine.

I'll guess... but bear in mind that this only conjecture of what I think are reasonably proportioned numbers. The truth is likely pretty close:

Intake +6hp
Header +14hp
No AC/PS +3hp
Light tires/wheels +3hp
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Old 07-10-2013, 08:32 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by KWMF View Post
Thanks for the great intake pics,

Depending on what happens and if I keep my 2012 RC 4x4 MT, I really want a slightly louder muffler and that header,

Probably going to do a drop in high flow filter though, money will decide, Lol...

As it always does!
I tell you... the sound from that really long Injen intake tube on acceleration is BETTER than any loud exhaust. It's fucking unreal!



...and it's way cheaper than the other intakes.
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Old 07-12-2013, 06:38 AM   #28
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Old 07-14-2013, 11:26 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tooter View Post
That's an unknown because there are a combination of small mods. There is likely a small multiplication factor in the intake and header working together since they're both directly related to the operation of the engine.

I'll guess... but bear in mind that this only conjecture of what I think are reasonably proportioned numbers. The truth is likely pretty close:

Intake +6hp
Header +14hp
No AC/PS +3hp
Light tires/wheels +3hp
For what its worth, I put on some all terrain tires that are 14lb heavier per tire (duratrac 235/85r16 E rating) than the stock after I had regeared to 4.56. I also did the DT header after a few weeks. I could tell the heavier tires, in part, cancelled out the gains from the gears and header. This is why I didn't go up to a 33" for now, that would be about 26lb heavier than stock tire.
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Old 07-14-2013, 11:46 AM   #30
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Originally Posted by Tacoyota View Post
For what its worth, I put on some all terrain tires that are 14lb heavier per tire (duratrac 235/85r16 E rating) than the stock after I had regeared to 4.56. I also did the DT header after a few weeks. I could tell the heavier tires, in part, cancelled out the gains from the gears and header. This is why I didn't go up to a 33" for now, that would be about 26lb heavier than stock tire.
That's good info thanks,
If I don't trade I'll be getting tired about winter time, and am looking at the Duratracks C rated, not 10, but I want the slightly larger size. I'll bet I notice a difference,
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Old 07-14-2013, 11:49 AM   #31
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Originally Posted by KWMF View Post
That's good info thanks,
If I don't trade I'll be getting tired about winter time, and am looking at the Duratracks C rated, not 10, but I want the slightly larger size. I'll bet I notice a difference,

I forgot to add my stock size is the 245 not the 265, that makes the bigger differences.
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Old 07-15-2013, 12:28 AM   #32
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I've hardly put any miles on the truck since the dyno runs, but today my wife and I took a day trip up into the canyons which included a mix of city traffic, 70mph freeway, and winding mountain roads. Filled up on the way back. 26.5 is the best mileage the truck has gotten, and that beat the previous best by 2mpg. I'm really pleased how this combination of mods have worked together not only to improve efficiency, but drivability as well.

The little 2.7 is running like a clock.
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Old 07-15-2013, 06:26 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tooter View Post
I've hardly put any miles on the truck since the dyno runs, but today my wife and I took a day trip up into the canyons which included a mix of city traffic, 70mph freeway, and winding mountain roads. Filled up on the way back. 26.5 is the best mileage the truck has gotten, and that beat the previous best by 2mpg. I'm really pleased how this combination of mods have worked together not only to improve efficiency, but drivability as well.

The little 2.7 is running like a clock.
Sounds like a good day of riding around, and good mileage results. Another question: You didn't happen to weigh one of your original steel wheels with the factory tire, and then weigh one of your new 16" wheels with tire, did you? Just curious to see how much, if any, unsprung weight you eliminated.
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Old 07-15-2013, 09:30 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Pick View Post
Sounds like a good day of riding around, and good mileage results. Another question: You didn't happen to weigh one of your original steel wheels with the factory tire, and then weigh one of your new 16" wheels with tire, did you? Just curious to see how much, if any, unsprung weight you eliminated.
I can also add that my truck is used as a daily driver utility work truck and is always fully loaded with about 600 to 800 pounds of tools and materials. That makes the 26.5mpg even better. Because I work locally in my community, I only average about 100 miles a week which is almost all start/stop short hop driving. This is one reason why the mileage went up immediately upon taking a longer drive.

Sorry, I didn't think to weigh the tires because at the time the new ones were installed, the tire shop bought the old ones for $88. I only know the difference in size:

245/75/16 truck tread

235/60/16 passenger car tread

However I did weigh the rims and the difference was 6 pounds 4 ounces per wheel for a total reduction of 25 pounds of rotating weight.

I can say this... the truck handles nicely with high end Yokohama K580 passenger car tires on it. They're low rolling resistance and excellent handling properties made it feasible to remove the power steering.

I did some sampling of tire weights at tirerack.com and came up with an average weight difference of about 9 pounds between those two sizes.

This yields the total (25lbs + 36lbs) rim and tire weight reduction to about 61 pounds of rotating weight... and that's considerable.

There's an old car rule that one pound of rotating weight is worth 10 pounds of static weight, so that is the equivalent of removing about 600 pounds of weight from the truck. But all of that advantage and more is canceled out because the truck is always driven fully loaded. Still, I'm happy with the mileage I'm getting even loaded down, and am looking to improve it with future mods.
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Old 07-15-2013, 02:39 PM   #35
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Thanks. I guess the total savings would be a little less than that going from the factory 215-70-15 wheels and tires to what you have now. I like the looks of the wheel/tire combo you selected.
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Old 07-15-2013, 03:50 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tooter View Post
Sorry, I didn't think to weigh the tires because at the time the new ones were installed, the tire shop bought the old ones for $88. I only know the difference in size:

245/75/16 truck tread

235/60/16 passenger car tread

Are you calculating your mpg using an 11% adjustment for the smaller tires?

Of the mods you've done so far my guess is the passenger tires are making the most difference in improved mpg.
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Old 07-15-2013, 06:21 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by worthywads View Post
Are you calculating your mpg using an 11% adjustment for the smaller tires?
The diameter of the 235/60/16 tires I'm running now is less than 1% different than the 215/70/15 stock tires that the truck came with from the factory. I checked a tire diameter chart first so as to get the closest equivalent to stock diameter that was available while still using larger wider 16X7 rims.

Quote:
Of the mods you've done so far my guess is the passenger tires are making the most difference in improved mpg.
You might consider an LCE header. I had one on my 1996 gen 1 Taco for a decade, and it ran great.
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Old 07-15-2013, 06:28 PM   #38
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Originally Posted by Mr. Pick View Post
Thanks. I guess the total savings would be a little less than that going from the factory 215-70-15 wheels and tires to what you have now. I like the looks of the wheel/tire combo you selected.
Yes, I don't think it would be worth the cost except for the cool factor of going to wider 16X7 alloy rims and wider 235/60/16 tires which are the same diameter as the stock tires that you're running now. That particular tire and rim combination preserves the accuracy of the speedometer and odometer.
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Old 07-15-2013, 07:26 PM   #39
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Originally Posted by tooter View Post
The diameter of the 235/60/16 tires I'm running now is less than 1% different than the 215/70/15 stock tires that the truck came with from the factory. I checked a tire diameter chart first so as to get the closest equivalent to stock diameter that was available while still using larger wider 16X7 rims.



You might consider an LCE header. I had one on my 1996 gen 1 Taco for a decade, and it ran great.
Gotcha, I thought the 245s were stock.

I'll pass on the headers. $450+ is hard to pay back.
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Old 07-15-2013, 07:37 PM   #40
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Gotcha, I thought the 245s were stock.

I'll pass on the headers. $450+ is hard to pay back.
Bad move
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