2.7 idle question

Outside air temp isn't the problem, it was -20F in ND and the fast/cold idle control never went over 1500rpm.

 

I just bought an '06 with the 2.7L on Monday (18,000 miles). Over the last week at every cold startup it idled at ~2100 rpm's for 7-10 seconds or so, then there would be a sound like air releasing and the idle would slowly come down to 1100 rpms until it warmed up.

This weekend I took the throttle body off, cleaned it 'til it shined, and disconnected the battery for about 2.5 hours. Put everything back together, drove it 20 miles, then let it sit for about 5 hours and started it cold again. The idle is now ~1900 rpms at startup and seems much smoother. However, the idle still seems pretty high to me.

I'd like to clean the MAF next, but I got CRC cleaner at Autozone and it says not to use it on Karman Vortex MAF's and specifically mentions that some Toyota's and Lexus' use this MAF sensor. Does anyone know if this type is used in the '06 2.7L's?

 

Just curious...is this in reference to an automatic or manual transmissioned tacoma?.

 

Also,for high idle,check/change your plugs....use OEM.

 

For mine it's a manual transmission.

I'll try plugs this weekend, hope that fixes the issue because otherwise I'm not sure what else to try.

Thanks Frog.

 

mine also idles at around 2000 rpms for a few seconds when i start it, ill have to keep checking in to this thread to see if anyone figures out whats up

 

Changed out the spark plugs tonight with OEM ones from the dealership. I started it afterward and the idle was the same. However, I did notice that the high idle is directly related to whatever the little electric blower is mounted in FRONT of the engine on the passenger's side. When I started the truck, the electric blower thingy ran at high speed for a few seconds while the engine revved to 2100 rpms. It sounded like a vacuum cleaner. As soon as the blower quit, the engine idle quickly came down to 1100 rpms and held steady until the engine warmed up after a minute or so, then idle dropped to ~600-700 rpms. Just following the hoses (I don't have a shop manual yet), I'm wildly guessing that the blower may run the unburned fuel vapors that are present in the exhaust on a cold start through a charcoal canister and vents it to the atmosphere. Again, this is just a guess, but judging from the gauge size of the wires leading to it, I think it must draw a large current from the electrical system, which would definately cause a load on the alternator, in turn causing the ECU to compensate the idle speed.

While at the dealership, I asked if this idle speed was normal. The service guy told me that he starts various vehicles on the lot every day and claimed that, in cold weather, they all rev to about 2000 rpms or so in initial cold start.

In addition, I asked about the oil fill issue (dipstick contradicts owner's manual). The service guy asked the shop manager to come out, who answered my question by saying that 6.1 quarts is too much oil, that he normally fills the 2nd gen. 2TR-FE engine with exactly 5.5 quarts. I asked where it would be on the dipstick and he said about 1/4 to 1/2 inch above the full line.

Just thought I'd share what I found out today. Any input would be greatly appreciated!! Thanks.

 

That is *exactly* what my 2006 2.7L does too (54,000 miles)

I always thought that hiss happened after enough vacuum was built up for the brake booster, which is why it idled so high (to build up vacuum). I would be interested to see what ends up being the real story with this high idle thing. My previous vehicle was a 1992 Ford Thunderbird 3.8 v6, never had a problem with that car and it always revved to 1500 on cold start, then quickly settled to 1000 until fully warmed. This is kinda what I was expecting of my much more modern 4cyl pickup.

 

I've been driving myself nuts trying to figure out what's going on, glad to hear that I'm not the only one experiencing this. Maybe it really is normal. A Google search reveals numerous people experiencing the same issue to varying degrees (some are complaining that 1500 rpm is too high). Yet no one seems to have found the answer.

So far I've replaced the air filter, cleaned the throttle body, cleaned the MAF, and replaced the spark plugs. If anyone else has any suggestions, I'm wide open!! Thanks.

 

I may get beat for this...go to a motorcycle site called thumpertalk.com.One of the moderators(martinfan30)use to work for Toyota...maybe he can answer this?.

 

Mine never goes over 1500 RPM's on start up, even when the temp reaches single digits.

 

It also idles high at startup to initiate the ABS. You'll hear the high pitched wine of the ABS pump/compressor, and once it shuts off (e.g. primed the system), the engine idle should come down shortly thereafter.

 

So my truck is still starting at 2000-2400 RPM's every day twice a day, like it has for the last three weeks (purchased the truck on 1/24/11). It starts at 1900 RPM's, then slowly climbs to 2100 - 2400 RPM's. It's scary, sounds like the engine is going to blow at any time. Like usual, as soon as the air injector pump shuts off, RPM's drop to a steady 1100 until it warms up.

This morning, on the climb to 2400 RPM's there was a stutter and a dull pop, and the idle speed instantly dropped to ~1200 where it surged for a second then held steady. There seemed to be a TON of unburned fuel coming out of the exhaust. No issues for the rest of the drive into work, and no CEL's. Started it up this afternoon and the idle was the same as usual.

I really hope that it's not doing damage to the 18,000 mile engine. I have noticed an almost inaudible knocking in the engine until it warms up, like slight piston slap.

Can ANYONE shed any light on what could be the cause?

 

Here is a link to the FSM's from TTORA hopefully this will give you some insight to your issue.

 

mine revs up to 2000 and slowly down to 800 whenever its cold and hasn't been started in at least a few hours

 

I get the high rev and the sputter once in awhile too. Probably not an issue considering all the startup items we've talked about on this thread.

 

Well, I took the truck with only 19,000 miles in to have the leaking water pump replaced under warranty (powertrain warranty expires in October). I figured I'd ask them to look at a few other concerns while it was there, namely 1) high idle at cold start, 2) vibrations, 3) front drivers side axle play. In addition, I asked them to do a coolant flush and change out the thermostat, thinking that it would be super easy since the coolant had to be drained anyway to do the water pump.

After leaving the truck overnight, the shop foreman and I started it up at around 7:30 a.m. @ 30*F temp outside. Like usual, it revved up to 2100 rpms for about 10 seconds. He didn't seem surprised, but didn't seem like he wanted to give me a definitive response either. He explained that it's totally normal for higher idle on cold startup, but he offered to try and find some idle specs for the engine on whatever database they use for such info. He allowed me to come into the garage and look over his shoulder as he perused the computer. After ~10 minutes he couldn't find anything, so he offered to start up one of the new 4 cyl. Tacomas on the lot for me, despite the sales department being closed. He gave me the keys to an automatic 2WD with the 2.7L, and we both walked out. When I started it, the engine only revved to a maximum of 1500 rpm's, NO HIGHER. The engine seemed to run much smoother than mine too, though it did have the same slight "piston slap" sound that I was concerned about on mine.

His explanation for the different cold-start idle speed? 1) The automatic's torque converter provides additional resistance on the engine, and 2) new engines are not "worn in" and the tighter tolerances cause additional resistance.

I had no basis to argue these points, and kind of figured that he'd use the torque converter statement before he even said it. I said okay, thanked him for spending the time to help me, and waited for the next 3 hours for the techs to replace the water pump. In the end, the receipt says that the high idle concern was addressed as "normal vehicle operation", which i don't necessarily agree with. I've already replaced the air filter, spark plugs, PCV valve, and cleaned the MAF, cleaned the throttle body, checked for vacuum leaks, and ran some Chevron Techron fuel system cleaner through. I'm out of ideas.

*********End of Thread-Relevant Portion of this Post**************

If you're still reading, the Toyota dealership was not the greatest. Feel free to ignore this, as it's not relevant at all to high idle.

When the foreman brought my truck around after water pump installation, i asked what the techs or him thought about the front axle play. He said that they forgot to look at it, but that if I still wanted them to look I'd have to wait for a lift to clear in order to put it back up. I said nevermind because I'd told my boss that I'd be at work soon and didn't have the time. As far as the vibes, the foreman offered to take the truck for a ride in order to replicate the issue. I asked if he would mind driving because the vibrations could mainly be felt in the steering wheel and pedals, ONLY UNDER ACCELERATION at 45 mph - 65 mph. He agreed and we headed out. As we left the parking lot, he revved high and continuously slipped the clutch, but i thought maybe he just wasn't used to the truck and he'd be better once on the road. Pulling out into traffic he slips clutch for what seemed like several seconds -> finally catches in 1st, and screams the engine up to 4000 rpms -> then slams it into 2nd (hard), screams engine again -> slams into 3rd -> hit a stoplight. We drove about a mile and through 4 stoplights this way before I told him to just take it back to the dealership. We got back to the dealership, and as I got out I was hit with the acrid smell of burned clutch. Oh yeah, he couldn't feel any vibrations.

I was pretty mad after this because I don't treat any of my vehicles or anyone else's like that. Not thinking logically, I paid for the additional coolant flush and thermostat replacement ($200) and left for work because I was already late. I popped the hood when i got to work to have a quick look at the new pump, and discovered that the hose clamp on the thermostat housing had not been moved even the slightest bit, and the dirty bolts on the thermostat housing were not even scratched or nicked. Plus, there wasn't a drip of coolant underneath the houseing, despite the fact that coolant was dripping from the front half off the engine and the skidplate had a ton of coolant on it from the water pump replacement. I called the dealership back and asked if maybe they forgot to do the thermostat, but the service advisor insisted that it was done saying that she witnessed the tech doing it when she went out to tell him something. She offered for me bring it back, but I had no proof other than the dirt not being disturbed on the hose and clamp, and the dirty bolts with no marks.

The kicker, I realized later, is that I could have done the water pump, thermostat, and coolant flush myself for about the same amount that I ended up paying them. Oh well, live and learn I guess. I'll not be going back there unless I have to. I don't know what it is with the dealerships in this area, doesn't matter what car company it is.