4 Cylinder Tacoma Overheating and charging issues

I am reaching the end of my rope. I have a 1998 Tacoma 2.7L 4 Cylinder with 202k miles on it.

Last year it started having issues and I ended up garaging it in the spring for a while until I had time to work on it. I thought I had it all figured out, but I guess not.

It started with some belts breaking, replaced those, it had been a while.

Then the truck started dying last fall. My first thought was fuel system. Fuel pump checked out fine, so I changed out the filter.

Truck ran for a while, then would die, all electrics fading, engine lugging, whenever I would make a left turn.

I replaced the alternator with one from a pick-a-part, was assured it tested good. Truck still had the dying issue. Replaced the battery. Still had issue. Replaced the positive lead. No more dying issue.

While it was sitting I decided it would be a good time to do a coolant flush and to change out the thermostat.

Took it out for its first real test today, making a dump run. The truck was running fine, but I noticed the temp gauge begin to increase and hover just under the red. Pulled over and checked the overflow reservoir, it was low, so I filled it up with water, figured it had been a hot summer and maybe there was some evaporation. Continued to my destination and the battery light flickered on for a moment, so I turned off all the lights, radio, etc..., did not shut off the truck. I emptied out the trash and headed home.

The temp gauge was at normal while idling, but once I started up to speed again, it began to climb, not as much as before, but it did climb. I noticed that at idle, the temp was fine, but once moving it would climb and at highway speeds hovered just below overheat. No more battery light, so I turned the headlights and radio back on, but the check engine light did come on.

Got the truck home and shut it down. Immediately restarted, gave some groans but started right up. SHut down for 5 minutes, started right back up. Checked coolant reservoir, was fine. Could hear bubbling coolant in radiator. Checked the radiator cap, as soon as I loosened it hot coolant sprayed all over, so I shut it again.

I put the the truck on my battery tester/charger. Initial reading said battery at 55%, so I left it to charge for a while, came out an hour later, read 63% at which point my son knocked the negative lead off. I reattached, and battery tests at 99%.

I checked the fan, it turns a little then stops with the engine off, but it is over a 100 degrees today and the truck has not fully cooled. Could I be looking at a fan clutch issue? I will check it again after everything cools off to see if it will free spin.

So now I am at the end of my rope, not sure what else could be wrong. The water pump and alternator are both on the same belt, so I am wondering, could the water pump be going? What would be the best way to check that? If the water pump is going, could that cause the belt to seize/slow and keep the alternator from working?

One last thing, when I was at the dump, with the truck idling I heard what sounded like a slight clattering from the engine bay. I did not open it up to take a look, but I remembered that when I last changed the belt that it is the rear most belt and pulley that turns it on the engine is on a rubber(?) cylinder. Could that somehow be going?

I also checked the starter motor, checked out fine. Did that before replacing the positive battery terminal.

Any help is appreciated.

 

To be honest it sounds a lot like a head gasket as far as the coolant issue and temp issue. As for the electrical, I would suggest checking the battery negative cable and terminal. Make sure it is tight, and no corrosion or problems at BOTH ends. Then check the body grounding strap from the engine block to the cab (Passenger side of engine, at the firewall) as well as the ground from the battery to the passenger fender.

 

+1 on the head gasket problem. It is a common issue on the 1st gen Tacoma with the 22RE, a buddy of mine had similar symptoms and we determined that it was the head gasket. No more issues after a replacement.

 

Bubbling in the radiator implies a head gasket problem. With the cap on the system should be sealed.

 

I would think headgasket, but when I changed the oil, sorry forgot to mention that, the oil looked normal. Also, I have not experienced any power losses.

Additional test. I started the truck up and got it up to operating temperature. I removed the upper radiator hose and only a small amount of fluid came out, then nothing, no more flow. The temp gauge was right in the middle when I did the test. I may try it again by running it up and down the street a few times to get the gauge past the middle and try it again, but right now it seems like the water pump isn't flowing. The belt is moving, so maybe the impeller is busted somehow.

 

The water was not overflowing until I removed the cap. So you are saying that the sound of bubbling water indicates a head gasket? I just want to be sure before I run down that road.

 

If it is a head gasket, how much am I looking at to get it repaired?

 

Just a tiny FYI, the 22RE was ditched when the Tacoma came out. They redesigned it a bit with the 3RZ. I did love those old 22RE engines! Dang things could be drove into the dirt, but they did have head gasket issues for sure.

A blown head gasket does not always mean it is blown between a water jacket and an oil passage. If it is blown between the cylinder and a water jacket then you will get combustion gasses in the water, and coolant into the cylinder, but no coolant into the oil.

the upper radiator hose is the INLET to the engine, not the outlet. That being said if the engine is running, and full of coolant, AND the thermostat is open, you should get some flow out of the top of the radiator. The 3RZ actually runs pretty cool, so it takes some time to warm up and open the thermostat.

Not 100%. You have to be sure of course that you have purged all of the air out of the system of course. AFTER that is done if you continually get bubbles then yes, it usually means a blown head gasket.

Depends on where you get it done at, but you could expect an average shop to charge in the $1000 range.

 

I'm going to go to the autohobby shop at work and see if they have a headgasket tester to see if that is indeed the issue. A mechanic a friend of mine trusts thinks it might be the harmonic balancer, especially if the water isn't flowing, or is only going irregualry, but said to check the headgasket too.

He did not indicate how hard/expensive it would be to replace the harmonic balancer. Anyone on here ever done it? Is it doable in the garage or will I need to take it in?