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Two Plasti Dip Projects

Discussion in '4 Cylinder' started by foosefan23, Dec 19, 2014.

  1. Dec 19, 2014 at 8:40 PM
    #1
    foosefan23

    foosefan23 [OP] 2wdyotas

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    Ben
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    wheels, plasti-dipped decals, plasti-dipped Tractor-Supply toolbox, Kelly-Charger tires, Toyota Bug deflector, AVS window weathering deflectors
    I am planning on plasti dipping my decal on the lower driver-side corner of my tailgate and I also plan on plasti dipping my gas lid. I guess my only two questions are, do you all think this is good idea because my decal is glued on to my tailgate so the only way to do it is to put painter's tape all over the tailgate and the entire driver's side of the bed to do it I guess. And if anybody has any better ideas on how to do this, please fill free to let me in on what you think would be the best way to approach these two little projects.
    thanks
     
  2. Dec 19, 2014 at 8:52 PM
    #2
    AndyTaco

    AndyTaco ACLBFTMW

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    "Raptor Style" grill mod, aftermarket wheels, 265/75/16 Goodyear Wrangler Authorities, TRD Shoulder pads on seat belts, no mud flaps, AVS Hoodflector bug shield *removed*, Dee Zee Ultrablack Bull Bar w/ license plate mount, dipped my fuel door for no reason, N-Fab Spare tire mount w/ full size matching spare, dipped eyelids onto my headlights for no reason, dipped my hood for no reason
    The best way to plasti-dip the badges on your tailgate is to debadge, plasti-dip, then re-badge. If you don't want to go through all that trouble, then you can mask.

    I plasti-dipped my fuel door. Just make sure to mask really well, all around the door and get up in behind the door and the crevasses around the door as well. Here's what it looked like when I finished:

    [​IMG]

    The main thing about dipping is to take your time. I did 7+ thin layers on my fuel door and waited for each layer to dry completely. With each thin coat of plasti-dip the color will become darker and darker, so I just kept adding coats until it was all the way black.
     
  3. Dec 20, 2014 at 11:30 AM
    #3
    foosefan23

    foosefan23 [OP] 2wdyotas

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    Ben
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    12 tacoma rwd 17.5 brown
    wheels, plasti-dipped decals, plasti-dipped Tractor-Supply toolbox, Kelly-Charger tires, Toyota Bug deflector, AVS window weathering deflectors
    Thanks,
    I really like the way that door looks. Quick question, how do you debadge the decal? I know that may not be the smartest question, but I took the tailgate cover off to check if it was like screwed or bolted into the tailgate from the inside (I had no idea so I figured it wouldn't hurt to check), and that's when I realized that it's stuck on there with something. If you can fill me in with some knowledge on that then I'm sure I'll know how to approach doing it.
    Thanks
     
  4. Dec 20, 2014 at 11:39 AM
    #4
    Indy

    Indy Master of all I survey.

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    heat gun and dental floss.
     
  5. Dec 20, 2014 at 11:42 AM
    #5
    AndyTaco

    AndyTaco ACLBFTMW

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    "Raptor Style" grill mod, aftermarket wheels, 265/75/16 Goodyear Wrangler Authorities, TRD Shoulder pads on seat belts, no mud flaps, AVS Hoodflector bug shield *removed*, Dee Zee Ultrablack Bull Bar w/ license plate mount, dipped my fuel door for no reason, N-Fab Spare tire mount w/ full size matching spare, dipped eyelids onto my headlights for no reason, dipped my hood for no reason
    I'm about to begin the debadging process myself, so I've got some fresh knowledge to share. However, I do not plan on putting the badges back on, so part of my explanation might not be 100% correct.

    You start off by cleaning the area really well. All around the badge and everything.
    Then you take a hair dryer or heat gun and start heating the badges. They're stuck on with very strong adhesive, so that's what you're heating up. You're getting the adhesive to be malleable and soft again. After you've heated it pretty well, take some fishing line (or dental floss - but it will keep breaking and get really f*cking annoying so I suggest using fishing line) and use it to separate the badge from the adhesive. You know, like a cheese cutter kind of. With a slow, tooth flossing motion, cut the badge from the adhesive. You may need to heat the adhesive a bit more if it becomes too solid. The badge will come off, but the adhesive will remain on the tailgate. This is where my explanation becomes more what I think would work... Because at this point I will be using adhesive remover to scrub that shit off.

    Plastidip the badges using the same sort of thin coat method as the fuel door. After they're dipped to your liking, heat up the adhesive again and stick em' back on the tailgate. Use a lot of pressure, if you can. Hopefully that'll work. Maybe someone on here will be able to give you better tips from experience. If the adhesive won't get sticky again, remove it with the adhesive remover and just use some 3M Extra Strength molding tape... It's the same stuff they used to put them on there in the first place I think.
     
  6. Dec 21, 2014 at 1:35 PM
    #6
    FawkQ

    FawkQ Well-Known Member

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    I have never heard or met anyone who debadged when derping their badges/decals. One of the main reasons (among others) people use plastidip is to save the ass pain of debadging then rebadging. When paint, yes debadge... Derping, ah no...

    Derping you simply clean everything (be thorough), then mask 1" around the badge (yes with a 1" gap between the badge and the tape, then newspapers everywhere to catch all the overspray. Apply the derp as mentioned above, then remove all the tape and newspapers right after your last coat, allow it dry, then peel away all the unwanted derp... Presto

    Did my truck and 2 other friends trucks this way still holding after 3+yrs... And let me assure you that I get up close and personal with my pressure washer.
     
  7. Dec 21, 2014 at 1:38 PM
    #7
    FawkQ

    FawkQ Well-Known Member

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    807dd007c482fd1b18169f91784ae206_0c57cadcd8012e223ae7b8ea3e074ddcdcbf4d39.jpg

    2c30694596f57d77d25e3d988197fb04_9c45b52ad540c5e5b258993811b11acd637fcb86.jpg

    50ee88c705046bd0aa4078edf140fe3e_f15ab784fe395661ec6dfb73a6e1de45c78b8e83.jpg

    6317696ace3fcaebef48fa7c5202ecf2_d8a0a2e6434e8b0c7fed42dc1a32f8dcc7bd2933.jpg

    These are Internet pics, but you get the idea
     
    Last edited: Dec 21, 2014
  8. Dec 21, 2014 at 2:04 PM
    #8
    AndyTaco

    AndyTaco ACLBFTMW

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    "Raptor Style" grill mod, aftermarket wheels, 265/75/16 Goodyear Wrangler Authorities, TRD Shoulder pads on seat belts, no mud flaps, AVS Hoodflector bug shield *removed*, Dee Zee Ultrablack Bull Bar w/ license plate mount, dipped my fuel door for no reason, N-Fab Spare tire mount w/ full size matching spare, dipped eyelids onto my headlights for no reason, dipped my hood for no reason
    Wasn't sure how clean that way was because I've never seen it in person, but yes that way is much easier
     
  9. Dec 25, 2014 at 12:41 PM
    #9
    foosefan23

    foosefan23 [OP] 2wdyotas

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    Ben
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    12 tacoma rwd 17.5 brown
    wheels, plasti-dipped decals, plasti-dipped Tractor-Supply toolbox, Kelly-Charger tires, Toyota Bug deflector, AVS window weathering deflectors
    The only thing I'm worried about is that when I start peeling after the derp is dry, how can I be so sure that the derp on the decal won't start peeling too?
     
  10. Dec 25, 2014 at 12:51 PM
    #10
    bubagump74

    bubagump74 SkiFreak

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    [​IMG]

    Take them off for best results.
    warm them up one at the time with a hair dryer and run some fishing lines carefully to cut the glue.

    Good luck

    PS;if you mask with tape it will take forever and might take some derp off the parts when you peel it off.:wink:
     

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